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Another Jagdpanther
MrFritz
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Posted: Monday, March 17, 2003 - 10:01 AM UTC
Well here's my first airbrushing of a model besides the flat base coat I put on my Panzer IV a few weeks ago. I primed with light gray primer, preshaded with dark brown, and finally added the base coat over top of all this. The cables are made from twisted solder after I pulled a boner and melted clear through the plastic ones made by Tamiya.

I think the cables turned out OK, but did I go too heavy on the basecoat and cover too much of the shading? Any suggestions?

The final model will have my first attempt at german camo with red brown and green added over top of the base coat - I hope.

Thanks,





Favorisio
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Posted: Monday, March 17, 2003 - 10:58 AM UTC
Looking good man, I like the pre-shading effect. :-)

Keep us informed of progress.

Roger
WeWillHold
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Posted: Monday, March 17, 2003 - 11:49 AM UTC
Fritz:

This is coming along nicely. I'm assuming that's pe on the grills on the back deck?---very well done. The fit looks very tight and clean---looks great.

The preshade is certainly evident. Once the camo is on, I'll enjoy seeing the results.

Can you please explain the twist solder method to make cables, or does "twist solder" pretty much explain the technique??? Neat idea.

Thanks for the pics. This is a nice model.

Steve aka WeWillHold
Plasticbattle
#003
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Posted: Monday, March 17, 2003 - 11:57 AM UTC
i think that this is actually pre-shaded perfectly. Some nice washes and you will have a nice effect. Sometimes less is more, if you know what I mean. I like it anyway. Those cables are excellent. As good as can be bought! I too would like to know how you did this?
Bender
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Posted: Monday, March 17, 2003 - 12:11 PM UTC
I think it looks great, nice work there

Bender
MrFritz
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Posted: Monday, March 17, 2003 - 01:02 PM UTC
Thanks for the comments guys....appreciate them.

To make the cables, buy some .015 diameter solder at Radio Shack. Next, cut 4 pieces of solder an equal length of about 18 inches. Now tie all 4 pieces to something solid. I used the desk drawer handle in front of me. Now split the other four ends and carefully, making sure they are all the same distance from the drawer (equal lengths is important), tape the 4 ends at 90 degree angles to one another on the cd edge. Now just sit there and very delicately and patiently rotate the CD. The farther the CD is from the drawer, the looser the wind. With some experimentation I was able to emulate the same twist that the plastic cables included in the box had.

Thanks and keep the comments coming.

sgtreef
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Posted: Monday, March 17, 2003 - 01:37 PM UTC
I like this vey good!! What model have you used? Looks like Tamiya.
MrFritz
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Posted: Monday, March 17, 2003 - 02:00 PM UTC
Yes, its Tamiya with Royal PE/Resin. Thanks!
RichSharpe
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Posted: Monday, March 17, 2003 - 02:31 PM UTC
That's looking pretty good Fritz!

I'm working on DML's Panther A early, but I didn't put any PE on it. The details on your's are so much finer.

I noticed you didn't airbrush your roadwheel rubber. Are you going to paint those by hand? I got really lazy this time after painting the roadwheels of a Panzer IV and almost going crazy. I just decided to paint the whole wheel black, then airbrush the centres with a brown/black mix to make it look dirty. The black is faded, but you can still see a black rubber. It was so much quicker than handpainting rubber

SS-74
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Posted: Monday, March 17, 2003 - 02:44 PM UTC
Looked real good. Mr. Fritz, and first one with PE. this is some amazing result you had achieved.
MrFritz
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Posted: Monday, March 17, 2003 - 02:47 PM UTC
Thats a real good idea Rich, and I wish you'd thought of that earlier! Looks like I'll be handpainting the rims -- slowly and painfully. I like the effect it gave yours -- lookin good! I just finished airbrushing the wheels and I have em dryfitted here:





Thanks for the comments,
blaster76
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Posted: Monday, March 17, 2003 - 07:06 PM UTC
that's one fine paint job so far. she'll look ral good with the camo scheme. You going to do ambush with all the little polka dots? or stripping. I polka dotted a Panther G and was real happy with that
sgtreef
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Posted: Tuesday, March 18, 2003 - 12:57 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Thats a real good idea Rich, and I wish you'd thought of that earlier! Looks like I'll be handpainting the rims -- slowly and painfully. I like the effect it gave yours -- lookin good! I just finished airbrushing the wheels and I have em dryfitted here:





Thanks for the comments,



Track retainers are these Aber or scratched? Hard for these old eyes to see this looks good though.
MrFritz
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Posted: Tuesday, March 18, 2003 - 01:35 AM UTC
The bracket and the chains are Royal PE and the pins I made from the green wire used for making wreaths. Here's a better view below. Thanks!

blaster76
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Posted: Tuesday, March 18, 2003 - 07:19 PM UTC
loved that spare track link detail. wish I'ld seen a close up of that a couple of years ago but now Im gonna see what I can find for doin my Tiger 2's
Holdfast
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IPMS-UK KITMAKER BRANCH
#056
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Posted: Tuesday, March 18, 2003 - 07:30 PM UTC
:-) Much more of this sort of stuff and I'm going to end up back on the dark side :-)
A tip for painting road wheel rubber, if you will take a tip from someone who as seen the light :-) This is what I do on the wheels off my aircraft; I use tyre black which is a dark grey, first of all I thin some paint to a heavy wash, touch it to the rim and capillary action will take it around the rim. Because it's a heavy wash you will have to touch it on several times, but it is alot easier and neater than trying to hand paint neatly around the rims. The painting of the rest of the rubber is a breeze. :-)
Mal
SS-74
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Posted: Tuesday, March 18, 2003 - 07:40 PM UTC

Quoted Text

:-) Much more of this sort of stuff and I'm going to end up back on the dark side :-)
A tip for painting road wheel rubber, if you will take a tip from someone who as seen the light :-) This is what I do on the wheels off my aircraft; I use tyre black which is a dark grey, first of all I thin some paint to a heavy wash, touch it to the rim and capillary action will take it around the rim. Because it's a heavy wash you will have to touch it on several times, but it is alot easier and neater than trying to hand paint neatly around the rims. The painting of the rest of the rubber is a breeze. :-)
Mal


Great tip BBW2, I ought try it some times. But it's from a plane builder, so can't be trusted entirely. I hate plane builders, won't make a plane even if my life depends on.... #:-) #:-) #:-)

In any case, I noticed your frequent comment on the armor thingy. Come back to the dark side, you know you wanna.....
MrFritz
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Posted: Wednesday, March 19, 2003 - 12:26 AM UTC
Thanks for the tip on wheels! I think I'll try that..............

In other news............AAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH................I F-U-B-A-R'ed my camo scheme last night and now I have to reapply the base AGAIN! I penciled in the camo lines to use as guides.........big mistake. I found I was concentrating more on covering the lead than making graceful camo lines. Then the airbrush wasn't cooperating and seemed to clog too readily, even though I added some acrylic flow improver and thinned it a bit. Well, it turns out I thinned it too much and the next stunt was to spray spiders all over the damn thing! Then I ran out of unthinned paint................getting more today.

I'm so ashamed of it, I won't even post pics............I feel like it's Michael Jackson's face right after surgery. Maybe once I get it right...........maybe tonight.

I'm using a Badger 175 and it always seems to spray well for about 3 seconds, then clogs and requires me to release my grip and brush off the needle with a toothbrush....it's driving me nuts. Maybe I'll try the Aztek tonight.

Any thoughts? Advice? This acrylic extender.....who sells it, who makes it, and is it the same as flow improver? I can't seem to find any official "acrylic extender" anywhere.

Thanks,


My emotional timeline last night:
:-)
Envar
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Posted: Wednesday, March 19, 2003 - 12:49 AM UTC

Quoted Text

The black is faded, but you can still see a black rubber. It was so much quicker than handpainting rubber


This is very realistic approach. Especially when they repainted those tanks, it wasn´t always so important to mask the wheels...I´ve seen many tank pics, both restored vehicles and original, where wheel rubbers had camo paint marks or spray on them.

Nice trick!


Good luck, Fritz...eventually the sun will shine even for you...

Toni
RichSharpe
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Posted: Wednesday, March 19, 2003 - 05:25 AM UTC

Quoted Text

I'm so ashamed of it, I won't even post pics............I feel like it's Michael Jackson's face right after surgery. Maybe once I get it right...........maybe tonight.


Ahh, don't worry too much about it. I screwed up on my current project as well and had to strip the entire right side of the turret. The paintjob in that area had 4 layers to make it the way it looked. But I had fun doing it the first time and I'm sure I can recreate the effect

I'm not too sure about your AB problems though. I don't know much but it sounds like the paint was just thinned too little, causing clogs, followed by too much thinning. I guess you just have get a feel of what is right for what you want to do. I think it's part of the learning process for everyone. Are you measuring rough ratios for your thinning?
Holdfast
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#056
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Posted: Wednesday, March 19, 2003 - 05:56 AM UTC
:-) Dave

Quoted Text

Great tip BBW2, I ought try it some times. But it's from a plane builder, so can't be trusted entirely. I hate plane builders, won't make a plane even if my life depends on....

In any case, I noticed your frequent comment on the armor thingy. Come back to the dark side, you know you wanna.....

Reading between the lines then Dave what you mean is that as an armour builder the tip would probably prove to difficult for you to do :-) ?
Rather than return to the dark side I would prefere to just cause a ripple, now and again. Seeing the standard of modelling from the dark side though means I have to be careful and not get drawn in.
Things might (might) be different If there was a group build of modern armour and I was able to enter my started (about 15 years ago) M1 Abrams, but thats not going to happen, is it. I don't read the armour forum and some one would have to give me the lowdown, if they had started a group build, of modern armour. Thats not going to happen is it? Oh well. I wonder if I could start a group build of modern armour on the aircraft board? interesting thought, no that wouldn't be right, guess it will never get built
thebear
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Posted: Wednesday, March 19, 2003 - 06:54 AM UTC
No such thing as paint being to thin ...I usually paint with a mix of about 70% thinner and 30% paint when using Tamiya paints....The trick is close the nozzel of your airbrush so that it takes you 2 or three passes before you can see a color change....Then slowly build up your color..It can take me a couple of hours to spray a camo on a kit ...Try it you'll like it ..

Rick
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