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MrFritz's Jagdpanther
MrFritz
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Posted: Saturday, March 22, 2003 - 03:03 AM UTC
Got most of the camo on finally, after alot of trial and error. What should I do next? This is my first camo job so suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks,




Delbert
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Posted: Saturday, March 22, 2003 - 03:19 AM UTC
hello MrFritz

that camo job looks great... think you will get finished by next weekend? :-)

As for what to do next. Maybe a wash and then some drybrushing to bring out the details. and I always apply my Decals after the main painting that way when I weather the vehicle the decals are weathered the same as the rest of it.

As for what weathering to do, well that depends on what look you want it to look like. The best advice I can give you for weathering is to think about what you want the finished tank to look like and go from there.

And remember its your model and as long as you are happy with it, then there is no wrong thing to do next.......... cheers and see you around the hobbyshop............
SS-74
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Posted: Saturday, March 22, 2003 - 04:11 AM UTC
Hi Fritz Looking darn good!

As for what need to be done from this clean and nice camo. The following is what I will do:

1. to have a beer for celebration of a fine job.
2. Put the tracks on.
3. Put the decals on.
4. Put on a clear coat
5. Wash (I usually do an over all wash with dark brownish color)
6. when waiting for the wash to dry, have another beer, because it gonna take sometimes, and the first beer is wearing out....
7. if you like what you see with the wash, then mix some mud color, I use 1 part flat black and 9 parts Tamiya flat earth, then spray them on the lower chasis, don't be afraid to over spray a bit to the upper hull
8. mix some thinned flat black, spray gun nozzles, and exhaust.
9. spray Tamiya buff all over to blend the camo together, and tone down color
10. apply flat coat
11. Beer time again....
12. I don't know how to effectively do dry brush, so I just add metalic color here and there. on tracks, or on usual-accessed areas
13. I apply pastel chalks, dark brown most of the time too. on the recess areas or on little details. And if you really wanna to tone the color down, do an over all pastel chalk brush work.
14. Apply flat again to seal everything in
15. Have another beer, and post picture.
16. Write down the name of every armorama-er whom give you bad comment about your model, proceeding with political assassination.... #:-) #:-)

HTH..... hehe Good work!!!!! #:-) #:-) #:-) #:-) #:-) #:-) #:-) #:-) #:-) #:-) #:-) #:-) #:-) #:-) #:-)
MLD
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Posted: Saturday, March 22, 2003 - 04:43 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Hi Fritz Looking darn good!

As for what need to be done from this clean and nice camo. The following is what I will do:

1. to have a beer for celebration of a fine job.
2. Put the tracks on.
3. Put the decals on.
4. Put on a clear coat
5. Wash (I usually do an over all wash with dark brownish color)
6. when waiting for the wash to dry, have another beer, because it gonna take sometimes, and the first beer is wearing out....
7. if you like what you see with the wash, then mix some mud color, I use 1 part flat black and 9 parts Tamiya flat earth, then spray them on the lower chasis, don't be afraid to over spray a bit to the upper hull
8. mix some thinned flat black, spray gun nozzles, and exhaust.
9. spray Tamiya buff all over to blend the camo together, and tone down color
10. apply flat coat
11. Beer time again....
12. I don't know how to effectively do dry brush, so I just add metalic color here and there. on tracks, or on usual-accessed areas
13. I apply pastel chalks, dark brown most of the time too. on the recess areas or on little details. And if you really wanna to tone the color down, do an over all pastel chalk brush work.
14. Apply flat again to seal everything in
15. Have another beer, and post picture.
16. Write down the name of every armorama-er whom give you bad comment about your model, proceeding with political assassination.... #:-) #:-)

HTH..... hehe Good work!!!!! #:-) #:-) #:-) #:-) #:-) #:-) #:-) #:-) #:-) #:-) #:-) #:-) #:-) #:-) #:-)




I'd add a step 2.5 and an alternate to 8

2.5 gloss coat the model prior to decals and trim the decals right up to the actual image

The gloss coat can be of the entire model or just the areas to be decaled, but make sure the gloss coat is compatable with your wash, enamel/lacquer with an acrylic wash or vice versa.

I'm guessing that's the Tamiya Late kit, there aren't a lot of decals, but Tamiya's are pretty thick. A coat of gloss will let them snug down without 'silvering', cutting them down to close to the film means the image is all that is on the model

Alternately, use Archer dry transfers , Eduard stencils, or make your own by taking the kit decal and cutting it out with an x-acto.


Then return to the sequence until #9

I like using black pastels for soot, since they look... well.. um .. sooty...

Pastels make really good dust too..

Looks like a nice job with the build and the paint.

I also agree with the beers part!

Mike
scoccia
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Posted: Saturday, March 22, 2003 - 04:47 AM UTC
Very nice job Fritz! Cannot wait to see it finished.
In the time being a few italian beers of the one suggested by SS-74...



BRAVO!!!
blaster76
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Posted: Saturday, March 22, 2003 - 08:45 AM UTC
like the striped camo. Might have to try that variey on my next German projet. Me,I'ld put on the decals and track then weather the hell out of it. As for the beer.........that'll work!!!! Enjoy a truely fine piece of work can't wait to see the finished product
airwarrior
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Posted: Sunday, March 23, 2003 - 09:06 AM UTC
sniff sniff can't have beer yet oh well cokes still good #:-) nice job on the camo!
ladymodelbuilder
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Posted: Sunday, March 23, 2003 - 11:40 AM UTC
Looks great Fritz !!!! The camo looks really good....
Selrach
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Posted: Sunday, March 23, 2003 - 11:57 AM UTC
Looks great MrFritz!
Beautiful Camo you have there :-)
AndersHeintz
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Posted: Sunday, March 23, 2003 - 12:24 PM UTC
Hola MrFritz!

Very nice camo! I just got done doing my SdKfz 250/9's camo a few days ago. Did you free hand or did you use masking tape? I masked mine as I'm terrible with an airbrush.
This thread came at a very good time, as it's the first armor I'm painting in a loooong time so all the tips posted will be of great help, thanks everyone!!
FAUST
#130
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Posted: Sunday, March 23, 2003 - 07:49 PM UTC
Ola Fritzy

That`s a nice looking tank you have got there.

What to do next....... Just read the post of Dave(SS74) can`t add more to that

Really want to see the final result

MrFritz
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Posted: Monday, March 24, 2003 - 12:48 AM UTC
Thanks for all the positive comments and procedure! I've got the tracks on and painted the wood handles. Also painted the engine vents and spare tracks.

Delbert, I probably won't have it done for this weekend since I haven't put any Future coat on it yet and I want to give the final coat atleast 72 hours to dry before I try the wash. As for the camo scheme, I freehanded it based on the Tamiya box art.

At first, I tried to freehand with my Badger and totally aborted the paint. I had to repaint the base and start over. Then I used my Aztek 470 and found that I will be using that almost exclusively now. The control over the Badger was uncomparable for me.

Can anyone suggest a good technique to get that "used" look on the metal tool heads like the sledge, axe, and shovel? I figured out that washes can give the effect of depth on the wooden handles and I was wondering if there is a comparable technique to use on the metal.

Thanks,
FAUST
#130
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Posted: Monday, March 24, 2003 - 12:53 AM UTC
Ola Fritz

To get the used effect on metal tools you can try to drybrush the parts that gets hit in use with silver and a little white. Look to the hammer or shovel at home. You can also make them a little bit rusty Also by drybrushing.

Just a suggestion

slodder
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Posted: Monday, March 24, 2003 - 01:16 AM UTC
Wonderful camo. That is just great.
The used look on tool, drybrush and or another alternate 'look' of use is to use a pencil. Two ways, straight from the pencil use it to 'etch' in worn marks or use as you would pastels. Grind/scrape and apply with a brush.
MrFritz
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Posted: Monday, March 24, 2003 - 04:39 AM UTC
Thanks for the tips slodder and faust, but what base color do u suggest for the tools before I add the weatehering effects?
WeWillHold
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Posted: Monday, March 24, 2003 - 04:43 AM UTC
Fritz:

This Jag looks great and I really can't add anything to what's already been said.

However if you follow SS-74's multiple "beer steps" as posted above, you'll be seeing two or three Jags by the time your done .

Great job, and thanks for the pics and the opportunity to comment.

Holdfast
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IPMS-UK KITMAKER BRANCH
#056
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Posted: Monday, March 24, 2003 - 05:46 AM UTC
:-) Verrrrry nice Fritz, this is going to be exceptional when completed :-)
Mal
AJLaFleche
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Posted: Monday, March 24, 2003 - 06:19 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Thanks for the tips slodder and faust, but what base color do u suggest for the tools before I add the weatehering effects?



First, let me chime in on what a great camo job you've done. That's as good as it gets.

Tools--remember they are exposed on the outside of the vehicle all the time when they're not being used. Look in the tool shed/garage at the shovels that haven't been used since last summer.

I use Model Master Burnt Metal, Burnt Iron or Gun Metal for the metal part. Buff a bit if applicable, maybe highlight with just a hint of steel, not silver or aluminum, both are way too bright. For small parts like tool heads, you can brush Metalizer safetly. When dry, add a wash of Payne's gray. There's no shot of the wooden parts yet, but weathered wood takes on a very dark gray/brown color. Floquil/Polly Scale has a good brown called Railroad tie brown in their line up. I used that recently for tools and was happy with the subtle color. If you're going to have a very clean tank, a warmer brown would be good.

As you may know, the brown (rotbrun) and green (dunkelgrun) parts of the camo pattern were applied in the field, so you could be justified in having those colors carry over the tools and anything else that was attached after the initial yellow (dunkelgelb) paint was laid down. Just paint the sections where there is yellow on the body behind the tools in wood and metal finishes.
MrFritz
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Posted: Tuesday, March 25, 2003 - 12:08 AM UTC
She's done except for weathering -- and yes, I'm relying heavily on the 15 step plan, especially the beer parts. This was taken right after I Future'd the thing and I plan to wait 72 hours before I put turpenoid solvent and oil weathering on her.

What's minimum drying time you would recommend given what I plan to use?

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