Hi there

Have not posted for a while, been a little busy polishing up some of my articles before they go off.

I started a Swimmwagen, with the intention of building a quick OOB kit as a break from my writing. As usual, this ended up with aluminium detailing and a base to match, adding a couple more days to a 'quick little build'

Starting with the interior; which was part painted before assembly, I created a wood effect for the decking with Tamiya buff stained with a coat of Burnt siena.



You can see I also managed to find upgrade PE parts for the tool clamps, lifted from the spares box.



As with all filler pieces, I try to experiment with as many new techniques as I can fit onto one model. In this instance, it was my first opportunity to try out a more complex colour scheme with my new airbrush. I have tried to achieve thin two-tone shades over a base coat of Tamiya dark yellow. Not bad for my first attempt, though there is room for improvement.



I have also put into use the dropping arm for the motor by simply drilling a small hole to accomodae the rod.



The base is now waiting for some clear casting resin. I am a little aprehensive about this stage as I have never attempted anything like it in the past.

Any advice??



I will keep you posted on the water part of the base, when I can afford the resin that is....

thanks

Stuart

Hi Stuart

I really like the paint job and layout. A couple of things you could think about as I am where you are with the airbrush stage.

Spray a little light dusting( buff or light yellow and a little brown maybe) over the whole car to bring all the colours together or you could do some light washes.

Break the bricks( or one ) into pieces and one other thing I think a painted darker painted base/frame may look a little better.

These are just thoughts as I do really like the whole thing. I did the same kit years ago and my doesn't look as good as yours.

If you've never done water or are worried about it - test it, test it, test it.

I always do a test pour of water. The mix may have changed in storage, my mixing my be off, something.
I make a small 'bowl' out of kitchen foil as my test bed. Cheap, easy, and disposable.
This also gives you a chance to test how thick you should pour your layers. I would go two or three with this one.

Also in the creek bed, I would add some of the bottom pebbles up the side a little bit, or vary the 'red' bank a bit more. Break up the color.

Follow the instructions for the resin to a 'T',
pour layers in increments of 1/8"
After each pour make sure the base is in a dust free zone till dry
When the last layer is dry you may want to add leaves and organic debris along the shoreline.....put your material on top of the final resin coat when it is completely cured and dry then pour on just enough "Future" to flow completely on the top....when this drys all the leaves etc will be 'set' in place and the resin (which has a tendency to show every fingerprint and scuff) will be protected.

Cheers,
Charles

Good points there from all of you. The base is a an old picture frame with the ground work built up from lego bricks which I do intend to paint, black or dark brown at some stage.

Nice idea with the broken brick there Paul; good eye for detail. I have applied a couple of coats of an brown oil wash, which does blend the tones together a little. Will try out the buff technique next time.

I am going to do a fair bit of prep work with the water, though at the end of the day this is only a filler piece, intended as a way of trying out new methods and techniques, so even if it goes horribly wrong, all will not be lost as I hope I will have learnt a lesson from it.

Thanks all

Stuart

Well, I have applied around five thin layers to the model base, with ok results.

The product is Woodland Scenics realistic Water and it's pretty easy to use. A fairly flexible set is achieved, whereas, I would have liked a solid finish. This may get harder with time though.



I also hope the passage of time makes the solution a little clearer. On reflection i think i should have made the depth less and maybe tinted the water to represent depth.



There are a few small bubbles on the surface, which had me ripping my hair out.

Q. Can you mix this product with water to achieve a flatter and more viscous solution?

Thoughts??

Stuart

I don't think the water looks to bad at all, I wouldn't worry about the clarity of it. I don't believe WS water gets clearer (could be wrong). I also don't think you can mix it with anything to achieve a different affect.

For a first water project I'd be proud of it.

I did notice that the wheels of the SW are a bit clean, I'd give them a pastel finish.

I think you have done a great job with the water.

I did one like this too but I found that near the edges where the resin/water product meets the soil/bank that it looks a little strange. Is there a way to stop this happening?

This water looks very well. I do not see any problems with it.

Thanks for sharing

I have the woodland scenics terrain book it says you can add water to realistic water. so it flows around banks or objects placed in the water and looks natural . I think the ratio is 75% realistic water : 25% tap water. Not sure on the numbers maybe wrong .(don't have book in front of me I'm @ work) I'll check when I get home. but you can add tap water to realistic water.
hth .sk2