Hello all. just thought I'd post an update on my sherman firefly project. I've got the hull mostly together and I'm working on the indie track-links.. they will take a while.. (570 pcs) in the meantime I am trying to work on some new (for me) weathering effects for the tank.
Right now I'm trying some new stuff to get a rust / iron look.. I.e. places on the armor where the paint is worn off and the metal shows through and is starting to get surface rust. Here are the pictures.
Please tell me what you all think of these effects and if they look realistic on armor? I'm sure some of the hardcore armor junkies on here can tell me.. thanks.
Pic 1
This is a picture of the drivers hatch. note that the metal is showing through between the hatch and the turrent and is starting to rust.
Pic 2
This is picture of the top of the gun mantlett and the top grab handle on the front top of the turrent. note the rust spot on the mantlet prob caused by a near miss taking off the surface paint sometime in the past. it also is starting to rust. The grab handle / lifting hook is worn smooth with metal starting to show through the paint from use but there is no surface rust present.
pic 3
This is a picture of the grab handle/lifting hook in the front of the hull by the drivers hatch. It is worn smooth with the paint worn off and the metal showing through.
looking forwards to everyones thoughts on this and i'm wondering if this type of effect is worth an article write up for the site.
later.
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pics of a Rust / Iron Effect i'm working on.
Posted: Wednesday, March 26, 2003 - 04:44 AM UTC
scoccia
Milano, Italy
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Posted: Wednesday, March 26, 2003 - 05:49 AM UTC
It looks very good! Weathering and rust are very well replicated in my view. The only question I've got is: do you want to portrait a tahk that has not been used for (i.e. a vehichle belonging to museum, or abandoned after action, etc.) or is an "on duty"one? If the case is the first i'ts ok, if it's the second, consider that all tanks have a scheduled maint, and so vaste rust areas are quite unlikely to appear, or at least I never saw big ones in the eight years I spent in the Army even on old M47s that were on their way to be withdrawn from service.
Bravo!
Bravo!
pcmodeler
Virginia, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, March 26, 2003 - 06:05 AM UTC
Photos never quite show off the effect very well either.
So, care to tell us how you are doing each of the effects as shown in the photos above?
So, care to tell us how you are doing each of the effects as shown in the photos above?
blaster76
Texas, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, March 26, 2003 - 11:00 AM UTC
I agree with Scoccia to a point. those Shermans sustained a long period of in combat several months if they were lucky. maintainence was done ona as needed basis "if it ain't broke, don't fix it", however, don't overdue the rust. wear is good and paint chipping goes along way. what you've done looks first class however
AndersHeintz
Texas, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, March 26, 2003 - 11:04 AM UTC
Hola Delbert,
I love the rust effect, it looks very realistic. Now if it should be there or not is nothing I could advise you on. I would say go for it as it simply looks awesome! Please share your techniques!
I love the rust effect, it looks very realistic. Now if it should be there or not is nothing I could advise you on. I would say go for it as it simply looks awesome! Please share your techniques!
Grifter
North Carolina, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, March 26, 2003 - 11:34 AM UTC
I really like the look of that area by the driver's hatch. The texturing looks very good. I think an article would be welcomed.
Posted: Wednesday, March 26, 2003 - 12:59 PM UTC
Hear, hear!
I love the effect you have created and would love to see a brief explanation of your method. I need all the help I can get with methods and tips like this.
I love the effect you have created and would love to see a brief explanation of your method. I need all the help I can get with methods and tips like this.
Kelley
Georgia, United States
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Posted: Thursday, March 27, 2003 - 05:05 AM UTC
Delbert,
From the pics I think you have done a very nice job to achieve the effect you are looking for. Having said that (and please don't take this wrong) I personally feel this is one area in weathering that gets overdone at times. My reason for this is pretty good I think. My dad was a tank driver in the 1rst Armored Div. in North Africa, and Italy during WWII. I have talked with him about this and although there was plenty of dirt, dust, and mud, there wasn't the abundance of rust that some modelers like to portray. (at least not on the vehicles he was around) So like some of the other guys have said it looks good but I would be careful about how much you put on the tank.
My 2 ˘
Mike
From the pics I think you have done a very nice job to achieve the effect you are looking for. Having said that (and please don't take this wrong) I personally feel this is one area in weathering that gets overdone at times. My reason for this is pretty good I think. My dad was a tank driver in the 1rst Armored Div. in North Africa, and Italy during WWII. I have talked with him about this and although there was plenty of dirt, dust, and mud, there wasn't the abundance of rust that some modelers like to portray. (at least not on the vehicles he was around) So like some of the other guys have said it looks good but I would be careful about how much you put on the tank.
My 2 ˘
Mike
Ronald_Kok
Gelderland, Netherlands
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Posted: Thursday, March 27, 2003 - 12:39 PM UTC
Looking good delbert as the rest of us I`m currious how you have done this.
sgtreef
Oklahoma, United States
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Posted: Thursday, March 27, 2003 - 11:06 PM UTC
Looks nice! yes maybe an article . 570 piece tracks that will keep you busy for awhile
Graywolf
Senior Editor
Izmir, Turkey / Türkçe
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Posted: Friday, March 28, 2003 - 12:49 AM UTC
very very good and realistic work..you should teach us . I absolutely agree all about the article :-)
Posted: Saturday, March 29, 2003 - 12:55 AM UTC
Hi everyone.
here is how the rust was done. and just so everyone will know i'm still experminting with this product and have some hopes that it will be usefull on certian things such as exhausts or maybe bolt heads and such.
It is a product you can buy at a craft store called " Sophisticated Finishes" they come in various sizes and finishes. I purchased a 2pack of 2 oz bottles one containing "iron Metallic Surfacer" which is Iron filings in a emulsion of water soluble polyacryhlates(i've no idea what this is.) and the other bottle is "Rust Antiquing Solution" which is some stuff that will actually cause the iron surfacer to rust. therefore it is in a sense "real Rust and a real iron look".
total cost for the two pack at Michales was approx $8.00 of course i used the local paper to get a 40% off coupon. You can also buy the bottles by themselves in a larger size.
The Iron Surfacer is a fairly thick liquid. you have to shake it well and sometimes stir it up. When applied with a paint brush it goes on like a very thick lumpy paint. Personaly I think it would be very hard to get a very even smooth coat of it on like paint therefore I think I shall use it for very small areas and places where you want a bit of texture under the rust.
here is a pic of a peice coated with just the iron. I will try and put up one of rust as soon as another peice i'm doeing rusts.
later
here is how the rust was done. and just so everyone will know i'm still experminting with this product and have some hopes that it will be usefull on certian things such as exhausts or maybe bolt heads and such.
It is a product you can buy at a craft store called " Sophisticated Finishes" they come in various sizes and finishes. I purchased a 2pack of 2 oz bottles one containing "iron Metallic Surfacer" which is Iron filings in a emulsion of water soluble polyacryhlates(i've no idea what this is.) and the other bottle is "Rust Antiquing Solution" which is some stuff that will actually cause the iron surfacer to rust. therefore it is in a sense "real Rust and a real iron look".
total cost for the two pack at Michales was approx $8.00 of course i used the local paper to get a 40% off coupon. You can also buy the bottles by themselves in a larger size.
The Iron Surfacer is a fairly thick liquid. you have to shake it well and sometimes stir it up. When applied with a paint brush it goes on like a very thick lumpy paint. Personaly I think it would be very hard to get a very even smooth coat of it on like paint therefore I think I shall use it for very small areas and places where you want a bit of texture under the rust.
here is a pic of a peice coated with just the iron. I will try and put up one of rust as soon as another peice i'm doeing rusts.
later
GeneralFailure
European Union
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Posted: Saturday, March 29, 2003 - 09:54 AM UTC
We've seen lots of rust on these pages, but your work is really outstanding. Interesting technique... !
Jan
Jan
WeWillHold
Wisconsin, United States
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Posted: Saturday, March 29, 2003 - 10:07 AM UTC
Delster:
Neat effect you are working on, and thanks for the explanation. I wonder if the stuff you are using is the same type of product as the "Rustall" item I've seen advertized in Model Railroader?
Good to see your work again---I always enjoy it.
Steve aka WeWillHold
ps: How's the bird???? :-) :-) :-)
Neat effect you are working on, and thanks for the explanation. I wonder if the stuff you are using is the same type of product as the "Rustall" item I've seen advertized in Model Railroader?
Good to see your work again---I always enjoy it.
Steve aka WeWillHold
ps: How's the bird???? :-) :-) :-)
sgtreef
Oklahoma, United States
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Posted: Sunday, March 30, 2003 - 02:16 AM UTC
Have you been following the AfV Modeller mag as this dude has been doing a T/34 article on the Battle of Stalingrad and the tank is not painted ,different then your idea but both are very interesting indeed.