This is the first time I´m doing Zimmerit so I need feedback. If it turns out it´s awful and I need to redo it, the greenstuf will come of easy!
/X
Constructive Feedback
For in-progress or completed build photos. Give and get contructive feedback!
For in-progress or completed build photos. Give and get contructive feedback!
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Zimmerit
Xrim01
Norrbotten, Sweden
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Posted: Sunday, November 25, 2007 - 01:39 AM UTC
keenan
Indiana, United States
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Posted: Sunday, November 25, 2007 - 02:13 AM UTC
Looks pretty good so far. It may be a bit on the thick side. If you are using Squadron Green putty it won't come off.
What are you using to texture the "green stuff?"
Shaun
What are you using to texture the "green stuff?"
Shaun
Xrim01
Norrbotten, Sweden
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Posted: Sunday, November 25, 2007 - 02:50 AM UTC
I´m using Warhammer Greenstuff so it will come of easy an in once piece to. I´m using a styrenestrip of Evergreen .015x.188"
SteveBuscemi
Upper Austria, Austria
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Posted: Sunday, November 25, 2007 - 07:30 AM UTC
Hej Ronny,
I am not sure what you are talking about, the Zimmerit looks great! I just finished the Zimmerit on my Tiger a few days ago. I used Magic sculp 2k Apoxie. Anyway, it was my first attempt to make Zimmerit too and I aslo used a thin piece of plastik sheet which i filed sharp on the tip. As Shaun said already, it might be alittle bit thick, but that's not really a problem if you are not going to leave a few spots blank to siumlate fallen off/ blown off Zimmerit.
if you study original phtographs you will see the Zimemrit was never really symmetric, mostly it was applied completely wild and in very few cases it had an "organized" pattern.
Like I said, looks great to me, maybe try and make the next application alittle thinner. Another suggestion would eb to sometimes press the tool into the green stuff lighter and sometimes deeper. makes a nice difference in the overall look. Like you did in the back of the tank. This is what it should look like.
Hope I was able to help!
Cheers,
Heli
I am not sure what you are talking about, the Zimmerit looks great! I just finished the Zimmerit on my Tiger a few days ago. I used Magic sculp 2k Apoxie. Anyway, it was my first attempt to make Zimmerit too and I aslo used a thin piece of plastik sheet which i filed sharp on the tip. As Shaun said already, it might be alittle bit thick, but that's not really a problem if you are not going to leave a few spots blank to siumlate fallen off/ blown off Zimmerit.
if you study original phtographs you will see the Zimemrit was never really symmetric, mostly it was applied completely wild and in very few cases it had an "organized" pattern.
Like I said, looks great to me, maybe try and make the next application alittle thinner. Another suggestion would eb to sometimes press the tool into the green stuff lighter and sometimes deeper. makes a nice difference in the overall look. Like you did in the back of the tank. This is what it should look like.
Hope I was able to help!
Cheers,
Heli
tjkelly
Maryland, United States
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Posted: Monday, November 26, 2007 - 09:30 AM UTC
Ronnie -
Nice job with it so far, looking good to me. Not an expert by any stretch, but I commend you for doing it yourself. Haven't had the guts to try it yet, but am going to have to give it a whirl one of these days.
Thanks for sharing, keep at it. Looking forward to seeing more of what you're doing. Cheers!
Tim
Nice job with it so far, looking good to me. Not an expert by any stretch, but I commend you for doing it yourself. Haven't had the guts to try it yet, but am going to have to give it a whirl one of these days.
Thanks for sharing, keep at it. Looking forward to seeing more of what you're doing. Cheers!
Tim
Xrim01
Norrbotten, Sweden
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Posted: Wednesday, December 12, 2007 - 05:46 AM UTC
Here´s the progress so far...
I also have experimented with some pigments and need som feedback on it aswell, I know they are on the heavy side but I started off light and added wheathering just to see the the whole range.
The wheathering is also on on the backside of the wheels so it won´t show on the finnished model.
The left wheel is a combination of mud, rust and bare metal on the cogs.
I also have experimented with some pigments and need som feedback on it aswell, I know they are on the heavy side but I started off light and added wheathering just to see the the whole range.
The wheathering is also on on the backside of the wheels so it won´t show on the finnished model.
The left wheel is a combination of mud, rust and bare metal on the cogs.
Xrim01
Norrbotten, Sweden
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Posted: Tuesday, December 25, 2007 - 11:37 PM UTC
The progress so far...
The camera really bring out the wheatering on the engine so it does not look so heavy wheathered as on the picture. The airfilters is not yet attached and the exhaust manifold must be longer since they don´t reach all the way to the back of the enginecompartment.
Anyone got an idea how to wheather the lower hull? I think it looks a bit to clean as it is...
Thanks to Andy for the inspiration on how to wheather an engine!
http://se.armorama.com/forums/110216&page=1
The camera really bring out the wheatering on the engine so it does not look so heavy wheathered as on the picture. The airfilters is not yet attached and the exhaust manifold must be longer since they don´t reach all the way to the back of the enginecompartment.
Anyone got an idea how to wheather the lower hull? I think it looks a bit to clean as it is...
Thanks to Andy for the inspiration on how to wheather an engine!
http://se.armorama.com/forums/110216&page=1
dannyarizona
Kansas, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, December 26, 2007 - 06:02 AM UTC
The zimmerit looks great! I'm not an expert on the stuff but it does look really good to me.
The weathering on the trans/engine looks good also.
Keep up the good work! Looks like it's going to be an awesome build.
The weathering on the trans/engine looks good also.
Keep up the good work! Looks like it's going to be an awesome build.
Xrim01
Norrbotten, Sweden
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Posted: Wednesday, January 09, 2008 - 05:57 AM UTC
The progress so far..
Posted: Thursday, January 10, 2008 - 12:48 AM UTC
Ronnie, I think you are doing a great job - both on the interior and the zimmerit.
Thanks for sharing - looking forward to see more
Thanks for sharing - looking forward to see more
tjkelly
Maryland, United States
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Posted: Thursday, January 10, 2008 - 03:25 AM UTC
Fantastic progress Ronnie - looking great! Your interior came out well, hope you are thinking of displaying it so you can see the work you've put into it. Thanks for sharing! Cheers!
Tim
Tim
Jeeprider
England - South West, United Kingdom
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Posted: Thursday, January 10, 2008 - 04:10 AM UTC
Ronnie,
I'm pleased that I was able to inspire your engine weathering, and what a coincidence that you are building this kit.
This was the first engine I weathered:
and the transmission too:
and one of it finished too:
Keep up the good work.
Best Wishes
Andy
I'm pleased that I was able to inspire your engine weathering, and what a coincidence that you are building this kit.
This was the first engine I weathered:
and the transmission too:
and one of it finished too:
Keep up the good work.
Best Wishes
Andy
c5flies
California, United States
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Posted: Thursday, January 10, 2008 - 04:59 AM UTC
That is looking great, Ronnie, it's all coming together nicely
And thank you, Andy, I think your Famo project is inspiring many of us
And thank you, Andy, I think your Famo project is inspiring many of us
Xrim01
Norrbotten, Sweden
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Posted: Friday, January 11, 2008 - 07:13 AM UTC
Thank you all for the positive feedback!
Andy, I have to admit that it´s pretty funny that we used almost the same kit!
I´m curious on what teqnice you have used to get the chipping on the hull (transmission picture)? I have tried the salt chipping metod but all I seem to do is melting the salt... and the result isn´t really what I was looking for
Andy, I have to admit that it´s pretty funny that we used almost the same kit!
I´m curious on what teqnice you have used to get the chipping on the hull (transmission picture)? I have tried the salt chipping metod but all I seem to do is melting the salt... and the result isn´t really what I was looking for
Jeeprider
England - South West, United Kingdom
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Posted: Friday, January 11, 2008 - 12:49 PM UTC
Ronnie,
First I sprayed all of the interior with a mix of Tamiya XF9 Hull Red and X9 Brown to make the primer.
Then I tore off a small piece of a kitchen scouring pad (the sort you would use for cleaning pots and pans etc) and dipped it in some masking fluid. Then I dabbed it on the model where I wanted the chipped paint to show.
For the interior colour I mixed Vallejo White with Pale Sand until I got a sort of off-white-creamy colour which was sprayed over the interior. When that had all dried I rubbed off the masking fluid which then allowed the primer colour to show through. Then the weathering begins......
Here is one more picture which shows the chipping from another angle.
Let me know if you have any more questions.
Andy
First I sprayed all of the interior with a mix of Tamiya XF9 Hull Red and X9 Brown to make the primer.
Then I tore off a small piece of a kitchen scouring pad (the sort you would use for cleaning pots and pans etc) and dipped it in some masking fluid. Then I dabbed it on the model where I wanted the chipped paint to show.
For the interior colour I mixed Vallejo White with Pale Sand until I got a sort of off-white-creamy colour which was sprayed over the interior. When that had all dried I rubbed off the masking fluid which then allowed the primer colour to show through. Then the weathering begins......
Here is one more picture which shows the chipping from another angle.
Let me know if you have any more questions.
Andy
Xrim01
Norrbotten, Sweden
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Posted: Saturday, January 12, 2008 - 09:18 AM UTC
Here´s som more pictures of the progress.
Thank you Andy for the explanation on the chipping!
Didn´t know how the radiopanel looked like so I just went wild with the colors
Saw on hte photo that the box above the driverpanel need some cleaning up.
Thank you Andy for the explanation on the chipping!
Didn´t know how the radiopanel looked like so I just went wild with the colors
Saw on hte photo that the box above the driverpanel need some cleaning up.
Xrim01
Norrbotten, Sweden
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Posted: Saturday, January 19, 2008 - 06:00 AM UTC
Since I´m gonna display the Tiger´s interior there are som parts I will not be using... So I was looking at the interior and got the idea to use some of the PE to create a saftey mesh for the crew so they won´t get stuck in the engine/driveshaft...
Some might frown at it since it´s not historical accurate, but I think it gives a nice detail to the model and it will be mostly hidden behind the turret floor.
Some might frown at it since it´s not historical accurate, but I think it gives a nice detail to the model and it will be mostly hidden behind the turret floor.
Xrim01
Norrbotten, Sweden
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Posted: Friday, January 25, 2008 - 10:37 AM UTC
I got a request to do a step by step on the zimmerit, so here it comes...
What you need is GW´s Greenstuff, Styrene, water, a knife and a glass bottle....
Step 1.You don´t want the string in the middle since it already have hardened, so cut it out.
Step 2. Take equal parts of yellow and blue. Mix it. And use water or otherwise it will stick to the surface and your tools.
Step 3. This is what it should look like...
Step 4. Flatten it out with a glass bottle... remember use water on your workarea AND tools or else it will stick.
Step 5. Apply it to your part.
Step 6. Cut out whatever you want to be visible.
Step 7. Use the styrene to press the pattern into the green stuff. Since it was made in the field there is no greater need for exact lines and even pressure. Use your knife to cut the styrene so it will fit in hard to get places and etc.
Feedback is welcome on the end result, the fine thing with greenstuff is that you can rip it off even after a few days without damaging the plastic. And you can put it in the freezer if you have to make a pause in your work.
Hope it helps someone...
What you need is GW´s Greenstuff, Styrene, water, a knife and a glass bottle....
Step 1.You don´t want the string in the middle since it already have hardened, so cut it out.
Step 2. Take equal parts of yellow and blue. Mix it. And use water or otherwise it will stick to the surface and your tools.
Step 3. This is what it should look like...
Step 4. Flatten it out with a glass bottle... remember use water on your workarea AND tools or else it will stick.
Step 5. Apply it to your part.
Step 6. Cut out whatever you want to be visible.
Step 7. Use the styrene to press the pattern into the green stuff. Since it was made in the field there is no greater need for exact lines and even pressure. Use your knife to cut the styrene so it will fit in hard to get places and etc.
Feedback is welcome on the end result, the fine thing with greenstuff is that you can rip it off even after a few days without damaging the plastic. And you can put it in the freezer if you have to make a pause in your work.
Hope it helps someone...
Jeeprider
England - South West, United Kingdom
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Posted: Friday, January 25, 2008 - 12:34 PM UTC
Ronnie,
Thank you for the explanation, you make it look really easy. I've always avoided doing zimmerit before because I never thought I would be able to do it successfully or convincingly, but now I may even be tempted to have a go myself one day.
All the best.
Andy
Thank you for the explanation, you make it look really easy. I've always avoided doing zimmerit before because I never thought I would be able to do it successfully or convincingly, but now I may even be tempted to have a go myself one day.
All the best.
Andy
Mattcooke
Oost-Vlaanderen, Belgium
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Posted: Friday, January 25, 2008 - 10:10 PM UTC
Thanks Ronnie for posting this SBS. As Jeeprider said you make it look easy. Thanks again for this.
Daniel
Daniel
Xrim01
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Posted: Saturday, January 26, 2008 - 02:24 AM UTC
It is really easy and there is 3 factors contributing to it.
1. GS hardens over several hours, giving you plenty of time to get the result you are looking for. AND if you need to rest your eyes or take care of a screaming baby (happened to me yesterday), just put it in the freezer
2. GS has a good consistency so its pretty easy to work with it since it stays in place. And you only need water when you are working with it.
3. It don´t attack the plastic so if you are unhappy with it... just tear it away. On the picture you can se that I have taken away a section of it to simulate that it have fallen off. This was done 18h after I was done with it and it had hardened.
Pick up some GS and have a try since you can ruin anything! This is my first time I´m building a model since i was 12 or something (and they got blewn up by fireworks a few hours after they where done) so I´m clearly no expert.
1. GS hardens over several hours, giving you plenty of time to get the result you are looking for. AND if you need to rest your eyes or take care of a screaming baby (happened to me yesterday), just put it in the freezer
2. GS has a good consistency so its pretty easy to work with it since it stays in place. And you only need water when you are working with it.
3. It don´t attack the plastic so if you are unhappy with it... just tear it away. On the picture you can se that I have taken away a section of it to simulate that it have fallen off. This was done 18h after I was done with it and it had hardened.
Pick up some GS and have a try since you can ruin anything! This is my first time I´m building a model since i was 12 or something (and they got blewn up by fireworks a few hours after they where done) so I´m clearly no expert.
SIRNEIL
England - South East, United Kingdom
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Posted: Saturday, January 26, 2008 - 04:11 AM UTC
hi ronnie
the green stuff idea looks great so i will be trying this out on my next build
neil
the green stuff idea looks great so i will be trying this out on my next build
neil
GeraldOwens
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Posted: Saturday, January 26, 2008 - 03:14 PM UTC
Quoted Text
hi ronnie
the green stuff idea looks great so i will be trying this out on my next build
neil
I see you are using a two part epoxy. Warhammer's "Green Stuff" looks rather like "Knead a Tite." This side of the pond, there is a lacquer-based auto body putty called "Green Stuff" (also marketed by Squadron for the last 35 years as Squadron Green Putty), which melts the plastic slightly and dries from the top down, making it a much more difficult medium for Zimmerit. Epoxies are much more forgiving.
Xrim01
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Posted: Sunday, January 27, 2008 - 01:04 AM UTC
Hehe! You ruined my plan for worldomination on tanks with zimmeit. BWHAHAHA I was supposed to be the only one with a zimmerit covered tank and you others would only have molten puddles of plastic!!!
Seriously, Thank you for the warning! And you are correct it it Games Workshop´s Green Stuff (Kneadatite).
http://uk.games-workshop.com/convershunklinic/green-stuff/1
Link to an Ebay seller:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/green-stuff-warhammer-wargame-converting-putty-12-inch_W0QQitemZ190190610694QQihZ009QQcategoryZ44117QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Seriously, Thank you for the warning! And you are correct it it Games Workshop´s Green Stuff (Kneadatite).
http://uk.games-workshop.com/convershunklinic/green-stuff/1
Link to an Ebay seller:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/green-stuff-warhammer-wargame-converting-putty-12-inch_W0QQitemZ190190610694QQihZ009QQcategoryZ44117QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Jeeprider
England - South West, United Kingdom
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Posted: Sunday, January 27, 2008 - 02:21 AM UTC
Quoted Text
take care of a screaming baby (happened to me yesterday), just put it in the freezer .
Seems a bit harsh, and probably against some laws too!!
(Only joking just in case someone gets the wrong idea)