OK, I think it's fairly well agreed that this kit could be better. I have it and intend to build it and furthermore, I'm glad to have it. Yes, I was hoping for something that would be a fairly quick and easy build with minimal aftermarket items and research needed. That's not going to happen now, but I won't let that stop me.

So, with that in mind, instead of adding to the tearing of hair and pounding on the floor that's already all over the Internet, I'd like to invite those interested to compile a comprehensive tweaks list for the new Cyber-Hobby STZ T-34/76.

I'm certainly not a T-34 expert, but based on what I've gleaned by looking on the Internet, referencing my books and checking the kit, here are some of the items that need to be addressed (Please be patient and indulge me. I am perfectly aware that others have mentioned these things. It's just my intention that we could gather all this info in one place):

The armored covers for the exhausts need eight bolts rather than the seven that are molded. Checking a photo in the ancient Osprey Vanguard book for the T-34, a rear shot of a STZ T-34/76 shows this very plainly.

One of the hatches does not depict the beveled raised portion correctly. This needs to extend to the front of the hatch. Additionally, the concave depression on the inside of the hatch is not depicted. (Fortunately for me, the version I will be building will not have this hatch.)

The photoetch grill frame over the engine fan area has rounded corners. This kit needs squared-off corners. I've ordered an Aber T-34/85 detail kit. Hopefully this will have this. I've also thought of replacing the screen with fine brass pipe screen from a local tobacco shop that people use for, I dunno, probably not tobacco... I might be able to cut several of them into the correct size rectangles and superglue them to the underside of an etched or scratch-built frame.

Front fenders aren't very nice and are very overscale. I was going to remove them anyway. Problem solved.

The interlocking joins in the front hull are depicted in a rather shallow manner. These need to be deepened or enhanced in some fashion.

Fenders seem to lack the welds that attach them to the hull.

Bolt detail is missing from the two small panels (whatever they are, sorry) above the side air intakes. I wil add the bolt detail with bolts shaved from a Tamiya T-34 or from some Grandt Line bolts.

Hopefully, this should get things started. I will read with great interest any and all additions.

Hi the rear engine plate should have 22 bolts not 27 as per the kit , also the rear tow hooks are wrong they should be the single downward type not as per the kit.. it should have the wooden block frames on the rear angled fenders as well , some had the block others just an empty frame . cheers ian

Great! THANK YOU!

Keep it comin'!

Hello all. Are we looking at the same kit part? Mine does have 22 bolts on the rear plate. Did Cyber ship wrong parts on some kits? By the way, my copy DID fit perfectly. We are talking about the STZ 1942 version? Granted, the rivets are not as large as on the previous kits, minor nit in my opinion, but they are a little small. Also, we are not talking about the bolts on the engine hatch with the screen, right? Only the bolts on the rear plate.
Doug
( more puzzled by the moment)
(The number of bolts indeed should be 22 if I use the T-34 Mythical Weapon book as a reference.)

Leaving out problems with the upper hull being somewhat too long this is a partial list of what I, and others here, have found so far:

It appears that Ian may be referring to the Model '41 kit. All the Model '42 kits I've checked have only the six bolts across the bottom of part R29 (the upper rear plate) as they should for these later STZ variants.

I've had some trouble finding clear photos of the rear of these interlocking hulls but at this point it appears that the kit parts (Q13/14) are correct for “Model ‘42” version. Earlier marks like the Model '41 had different towing hooks in back as mentioned by Ian.
The "hammerhead" type provided in the kit is certainly correct for the later type T-34 without the interlocks for the turret ring plate/engine deck.
In any case the earlier type hook can be fairly easily made by filing off the "short" hook side and rounding this end over (if anyone is interested I have a drawing that will show you what I mean).

The hinge detail on part R5 is very weak. It will probably be worth while to beef them up with a bit of plastic card and rod.

All bolt detail on the upper hull and rear plate is far too small.

Though I have been told that there are photos of these T-34s with the seven bolt exhaust shrouds they would appear to be less common.
Remove the bolt at the top of the shroud and add two at about the 10 and 2 o’clock position (or something like that ).

Based on a grand total of two photographs part Q19 on the lower hull’s belly should be more square as opposed to rectangular. Also it seems that these were sealed with tar or something similar (it looks a bit like a weld bead around the edges).

The rounded corners of the fan screen (MA3) may not be entirely incorrect as some photos do suggest the earlier type framing. The screening (MA2) however, though not terrible, could stand to be replaced with something that looks more like very fine chain link (hurricane fencing). Aber’s sets for DML’s other T-34 kits would do nicely.

Based on the majority of photos the rear light (G13 or MA9+MA25) was less common on these tanks, however if you choose not to install this part the large opening where the light would be needs to be filled. The STZ covers without the light had no opening at all unlike other manufacturers.

The radius along the edges of the radiator covers on the engine deck is far too small. This can be easily corrected with a bit of careful sanding. You may well have to re-scribe the covers over the oil filling ports when you are done though. You will need to add the two bolt heads to these when you’re done anyway.

There is no seam between the left and right radiator cover and the engine tower.

The engine hatch (A7) is too small for the opening in the upper hull. Making a new hatch will help but also be aware that the corner radii in the opening should be larger than what the kit provides.

The four small “pips” along the front edge of the radiator covers (the front retaining brackets) should be much larger bolt heads.

The opening for the side grills (H6 and H5 or G21 and G20) should have a radius to the upper corners rather than being sharply squared as in the kit. I’ve used epoxy putty and small brass dowel to shape the radius with good results.

The suspension tower covers nearest the engine deck should have two bolt heads and one countersunk slotted screw holding them down. Cut off the bolt nearest the turret ring and create the screw head to replace it (Aber makes a nice set of these that should be useful).
The bolt heads should be larger than what the kit provides in any case.
The center "boss" on these covers is too small.

The forward two suspension tower covers were reproduced with what on the real tank is a welded strip along their outer edges (Interestingly not all the interlocking hull tanks appear to have this modification though the photos I’ve checked may not all be of the same variant). Unfortunately the strip on the kit is much too wide. It needs to be narrowed up and the cover widened by the same amount. When this is done add a single bolt head to the lower edge of the cover furthest from the glacis.

I believe that part R33 (driver’s hatch hinge) is a feature of certain rebuilt tanks or very early batches of tanks to which the later style cast hatches were added. This leads me to wonder if it wouldn’t be more appropriate for the Model ’41 (without the interlocking plates).
To be safe use part R32.
(If you know of a photo of a tanks with interlocking plates and the modified hinge please let us all know!)

As noted the glacis interlocks are extremely anemic (though the upper section looks a lot like Factory 112 product). These need to be corrected using a good photo as reference.

The photo etch fret that comes with these kits (both the ’42 and ’41) is 90% worthless. Tie-downs should be made with fine gauge wire, the clamps for the extra fuel cells (MA5 and MA18) look very little like the real thing (though the plastic bits provided (F14) are mostly worse).
If you can trim the little latch from parts F14 then rest of the clamp could probably be made from brass strip and some fine wire without too much fuss.

I haven’t done any work with the turret but at very least the detail of the latch and flare pistol port should be improved.
The typical STZ hatch for these tanks, as has been noted, is poor. The center raised portion can be reproduced with a bit of plastic card and some judicious motor tool work I think.

I’m sure there will be more tweaks as we look at the kit even more closely.

Not to rehash this again but it would seem that Doug is unique in that he has been able to fit the major hull parts without any problems.
I’ve been in touch with a number other modelers who have found that these parts can simply not be fitted without major surgery. Certainly the pieces in my kit (parts D, I, R5, and R29) can’t be assembled properly without a gap or pushing bits out of place.

Doug, it would be nice if you could take the time to describe how you assembled these parts as well as to provide some clear images of the completed hull.
It just seems very unlikely that some kits would fit well and others wouldn’t if only because that suggests a least two different masters (which are, I believe, digital these days in any case).

Mark

This is great stuff.

Sincere thanks,

GC

Yes, those all all good little tweeks. Plenty of extra bolts on the extra parts. Not too worried about most of them myself. A few of the easy ones.
As to how I got as good a fit without any surgery. All I did was glue to back plate (R-29) onto the upper hull (D), got a real good fit, takes a little hand pressure, but no bending or sanding. Then I glued on part R5 onto lower hull,(I) and then parts C1 and C2 onto I. It may have been reverse order on that, I don't think it matters. Also glued part R30 onto lower hull front. After they set up I simply slid the upper and lower hull parts together. The fit was excellent. As I said, as the upper rear plate slid down on the lower back,(R5) there was a click sound and voila, there they were. The front was a little more gappy, but the part C3 covered that nicely. The sponson fit could not be closer. I may or may not putty in the slight seam.
Yes, the fenders are a bit thick and the ye olde Dremel will find employment there.
I really don't know why it fit so well, when others are having major problems. I haven't talked to other club members here in Denver about similar difficulties. That is if anyone else here has the kit. I'm tempted to see if Colpar here gets one in stock and may buy another as a test subject.( Colpar gets nearly EVERTHING). Love em.
The hatch part S7 looks close enough according to one photo I have. I can't determine if that raised area runs all the way to the edge. It doesn't look like it. Maybe a little further, but it's again close enough for me. Looks different than the other hatches, so I'm using it as is.

I'm not concerned about any weld marks on the side fenders to hull.

Turret went together beautifully. No complaints.
Tow hooks look right.
Don't put part R31 where the instructions show. I used drawing out of "T-34, Mythical Weapon" backed up by some photos. (I don't always trust drawings, prefer primary source if possile. I suppose I can be anal sometimes too. Just watch me and marking referances sometimes. Not pretty. )

It's building is almost done. Slap the track together, slip on the road wheels, some wierd shade of green and on the shelf gathering dust with the rest of the rat-pack of T-34s'. About 10 or so last count.

I'd like to take some better pictures but the camera sucks for this, and I'm not really interested in photographing this stuff. My daughter might be better, but she's gone until Dec.24th. By then it might well be all finished. So it goes.
So I wish everyone good luck and I hope everyone gets the kit of their dreams for Christmas.
(I'm hoping for the new Jagdpanther)
Doug
Have a happy and safe one!

OK, now who's being condescending? Though any one of these "little tweaks" would be only moderately annoying for a kit at this cost level the totality make for an extremely poor effort given present expectations.

Referencing part S7, the STZ type turret hatch, based on roughly a dozen fair to good photos the raised portion is both too "short" (should be significantly taller at the top) and not "long" enough. It should also taper to at very least 3/4 of the length of the hatch and probably to very near the bottom (Factory 112 used a similar design for which I have even better photographs. These do extend to the bottom edge of the hatch.)

Based on your description it does appear that something odd is going on with the hull.
I assembled the hull in almost exactly the same way as you did. All parts align properly on both the upper and lower hull but when you try to mate them there is a very large gap as Dmitry illustrated so well.
So, we seem to have two completely different sets of molds producing this kit.

BTW, I am hearing rumors that DML actually is retooling this kit. We'll have to wait and see if this is true and whether or not they will offer a redone upper hull to those of use who just couldn't wait to get the kit.

Mark

There's a possibility that they're retooling it???

Figures. It'll probably be released just as I'm finishing this up...

Mark, I was agreeing with the tweak list. Sheesh. I give up. Modeling was a lot more fun before I started browsing the web. This isn't much fun when you try to give your experinances which are different and all I get is crap feedback. I'm done with this.
Good bye and good luck to all of you.
And much luck in your search for perfection.
Now I am being condescending.
Doug.

Doug,
I really can't recall anyone giving you grief over saying you had no problems with hull fit. I can recall you saying that those who did “must be doing something wrong” though.
There was some genuine interest in how you fitted your hull parts without much trouble when so many others could not, myself included.
Given my take on your attitude the interpretation of the quote in my previous post should not have come as a surprise to you. A wise English prof of mine once noted that no one can see your expressions while reading what you've written and, because of that fact, one should always be careful of the phrases he uses while writing to avoid being misunderstood.
I'll readily admit, I myself fail to be careful enough in this regard too often. To compensate I’ve a) added a slightly thicker skin and b) learned to correct misunderstandings without feeling personally attacked.

Now, as far as "perfection" goes; No, I don't think anyone here expects perfection from a model kit. But how about "very good", and if not that, "good" for dollar spent? The upper hull (the STZ Model ’42 part of the kit) meets neither of those standards in the opinion of many who, like you, are trying to build the kit.

Sorry to lose you. You no doubt would have added more to the group.

Mark

Doug,

This isn't a case of us searching for perfection, it is a case where you and maybe a handfull of others have a different kit than MANY others. Either you have A.) recieved a kit substantially different than most others got or B.) have a trick that we need to learn to get the same result. I am betting on A.

So for many people to be confused and frustrated that we all think we are talking about "Oranges" and it just happens you have something different can make things...unsettling. Noone is calling you a liar or that you are being shady or untruthfull, we are all just trying to figure out why your experience is so different.

But if we do loose you over this, it is just one more side-effect of DML's poor decision making in all this. And that is the worst consequence of these kind of messes.

Happy modelling to you regardless. (Not condescending)