Matthew Quiroz (red4) provides a demonstration/review of Triangle Crafts' Sophisitcated Finishes Rust Solution to create realistic rust effects using their 2-part solution.

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Thanks!

Thanks for the review Q, I've been on the fence about this product and I think you just helped me spend some more money! Do you recommend priming under this or since it's acrylic it's safe for styrene?

James, the test hull I used was bare plastic and I even dropped it a couple of times. The stuff pretty much stays put. I guess it wouldn't hurt to prime, but I didn't in my test. Not a problem helping you spend your $$$. Thanks, "Q"

Good review, Q. I think I may end up buying this to simulate unpainted steel plates on OIF guntrucks (which I hope to get around to building someday...).

I know out of experiënce that this stuff really works because it really rust's.
But after a year, ( maybe two. ) it's gonna look pretty awefull.
Because it keeps on rusting untill there is not much rust left on your model.

I may have used an other brand than this, but it works just the same.

I hope that i am wrong with this brand !

It works beautifully but i have my reservations about it on the long run.

Frank.

It's a iron- oxid paint in one bottle and an acid in the other.
The acid eats up the iron-oxid paint.

Sorry guys, that's my experiënce

Frank, again.

On the instructions is states that once you have acheived the desired results, it can be sealed. So, I imagine by sealing it, it will cut off the oxygen supply and thereby stop the rusting process. The pieces that my buddy used it on years ago still look good. Nothing has fallen off, or diminished in appearance and those are more than 5 years old. Maybe there is something to sealing it. "Q"

Hi Matthew.

I did not seal my rusted kit !
This really could be the trick on applying real rust if your right.

Thanks.
Frank.

P.S. Maybe i'll gonna try this once again. ( Because it looks so incredible cool. )

You are right, it is cool looking. Hope it works out for you. I have several small dios that will get this stuff used on them. Hopefully I will have the time and patience to see them thru.. Thanks, "Q"

Rob Colvin in Atlanta told me about this stuff. Played hell trying to find it in the store but it works as advertised once you get the hang of it.

Now if I can only remember where I put it since I've been working on a jet lately.

Will return to armor in May 08.

Id like to try this stuff myself. Looks to be the best method Ive seen for exhausts.

Anyone know where I can find this in UK? If googled and dogpiled and all sorts and it's nowhere to be seen

Stuart, try here.
http://www.misterart.com/store/view/003/group_id/9189/Triangle-Coatings-Sophisticated-Finishes-Rust-Antiquing-Kit.htm

Hope that helps. "Q"

There are a few other products on the market that do the same thing. If my memory serves me correctly I think I saw Cammett's selling something similar at one of the model shows I went to. Can't remember the name of it, want to say Rustall, which is another product to do the same, but don't think that's it.

Nothing listed on their site so an email or telephone call my answer your query.

Happy Christmas

Alan

Hi

I found the one I saw, here is web site

http://www.deluxematerials.co.uk/system/index.html

scroll to page bottom left

Alan

Michaels sells it also Red4
http://www.michaels.com/art/online/displayProductPage?productNum=cp0235&channelid=

Hi Matt,
I understand you're a Scout/Sniper and having just read a book on Sgt. Carlos Hathcock's life as an USMC sniper my hat goes off to you .
As far as this solution is concerned I don't wanto to rain on the parade but I must say that,having used a similar (not to say identical) combo called Rust-all or something like that,I'd steer clear from this stuff.even if it Tamiya Magazine harped about that as if it was the best invention after sliced bread !For starts the iron shavings are too coarse to faithfully give the in-scale effect of a,say,rusted exhaust pipe in a scale smaller than 1/8 ,and after a few weeks the acrilyc solution in the SEALED bottle containing the metallic surfacer evaporated somehow leaving a heavy lump of steel shavings mixed with what looked like diluted white glue!Maybe the rusting solution could be used after some ground iron from a big nail or a piece of scrap metal is applied with your favourite medium to the surface you're going to "rust"!The shavings in this set are too big to texture a 1/35 turret but could be used on a 1/16 T34 for example!
Me,I haven't liked this product the least but,hey....it's only me!The idea behind the stuff is great and I know that it's widely used by restorers(and fakers) but we must find something more refined for our hobby!
As a side note you can have just about the same results buying a VERY CHEAP bottle of blueing solution for guns,a small jar of artist's iron oxyde and by spending a few minutes at a smith's workshop and get a life-long supply of iron dust!
Cheers
Manny

Manny, Sorry for the late reply. Thanks for the recognition. Carlos was one of those guys that always seemed larger than life. It was a sad day when he passed.
I'm not sure if the stuff you used was the same as this what I reviewed, but I have had great success with it so far. I just finished a PzIII G DaK and used it on the exhausts for it. I'm still adding some solution to it at this point, but I think it looks good. The iron in mine isn't so much flakes as they are specs. I mean really, really fine specs. Like pin-point fine. Here's the results I've had thus far.

As I said earlier, I'm still adding rustng solution to it so it will rust up even more. Thanks, "Q"

I was actually testing this stuff out after seeing this article on ArmoramA and was going to do a little mini-review of my own based on some tests I did.

Got it at Michaels for $5 with the weekly 50% off coupon.

The tests I did look amazing and real. Wish I knew about it for my Gone Fishing diorama.

Reading the reviews it seems like this stuff might continue to corrode if not sealed. So my tests were more based on what to seal it with. These tests were done a few days ago on 1/2" squares of styrene. About 3 applications of the ruster was applied over the iron paint to achieve this level of rust. More apps = lighter rust. Also placing the parts in an air-tight container after application speeds the rusting as it allows the chemicals to react longer before drying.



All of these were handbrushed on (not airbrushed) and only 1 thin coat was applied.

A: Plain Future Floor Acrylic out of the bottle actually made it rust a little more and go a few shades lighter as far as rust color. Similar to Migs light rust pigment.

B: Prepared Matte Medium (from scenic express) This worked well. It darkened the rust slightly, but in other tests it left it the same and unaffected.

C: Ouch... Future Floor Acrylic + Tamiya Flat Base thinned with Tamiya Thinner. This reacted with the corrosive agent and frosted everything. The culprit based on other tests is the Tamiya Thinner mixed with the FFA. The Flat Base had no ill effects.

D: Decoart DuraClear acrylic varnish (Satin). Similar to Apple Barrel and Liquitex brands. This actually worked the best IMO.

E: This is the control with no sealant applied.

So beware what you use to seal it and always test on scrap first. Overall I love it and can't wait to apply it to a model.

Michael, good addition to the review and thread. Thanks for sharing your results. Most appreciated. "Q"

I just bought and tested some of this product today and it produces some great results. I think this may now be the defacto product for rust finishes in modeling.

Someone should do a review of their patina finish products as well, as they could certainly be useful in diorama construction when a set piece needs an aged brass or copper look.