I just won one of ICM’s “battle in a box” kits on eBay for what I think was a very good price. The box contains ICM’s BS-3 gun which I’ve read great things about, 4 Afghan fighters, and a Ural 4320 truck.
I cant seem to find any reviews of the 4320. Has anyone built this offering? If it’s even semi close in detail etc. to ICM’s Studebaker I’ll be very happy…
Thanks in advance,
Noah
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Anyone built ICM’s Ural 4320
UM83CANES
Joined: May 01, 2007
KitMaker: 275 posts
Armorama: 242 posts
Posted: Tuesday, October 28, 2008 - 03:57 AM UTC
Alpha7
Joined: December 31, 2004
KitMaker: 31 posts
Armorama: 19 posts
Posted: Tuesday, October 28, 2008 - 06:19 PM UTC
There's a review of it here. I haven't build mine yet but from what I've read, it isn't the easiest of kits to build. The details are generally simplified and fit is fair. But it's the only kit of this vehicle available.
There's a build log of ICM's BM-21 "Grad" on Planet Armor that may give you an idea of what can be done to improve the kit.
There's a build log of ICM's BM-21 "Grad" on Planet Armor that may give you an idea of what can be done to improve the kit.
Yoni_Lev
Joined: September 20, 2007
KitMaker: 861 posts
Armorama: 394 posts
Posted: Tuesday, October 28, 2008 - 06:53 PM UTC
You can also have a look here for a previously posted Armorama thread on a built Ural kit.
The Ural is not in the same league as the new ICM Studebaker, but it's certainly buildable. I'm a sucker for this truck, and I've built two. (Ok, one is finished, and I'm working on the second kit. So one...and a half.) Don't expect a shake-n-bake build, as there is a lot of prep and fitting work needed, but the model looks pretty good when finished.
-YL
The Ural is not in the same league as the new ICM Studebaker, but it's certainly buildable. I'm a sucker for this truck, and I've built two. (Ok, one is finished, and I'm working on the second kit. So one...and a half.) Don't expect a shake-n-bake build, as there is a lot of prep and fitting work needed, but the model looks pretty good when finished.
-YL
mat
Joined: November 18, 2003
KitMaker: 894 posts
Armorama: 643 posts
Posted: Tuesday, October 28, 2008 - 06:55 PM UTC
it's an older kit so indeed the details are a bit simplified, but fit of the parts is quite okay. If you replace the huge hinges of the doors by small pieced of plastic rod and if you sand down the plastic of the "box" that holds the fuel tank you have solved the 2 most obvious toy like features. You can add some metal wire frame in front of the headlights and make some new seats if you want to.
If you want to open the hood and show the engine, you've got a big problem
If you want to open the hood and show the engine, you've got a big problem
GeraldOwens
Joined: March 30, 2006
KitMaker: 3,736 posts
Armorama: 3,697 posts
Posted: Wednesday, October 29, 2008 - 11:41 AM UTC
Quoted Text
I just won one of ICM’s “battle in a box” kits on eBay for what I think was a very good price. The box contains ICM’s BS-3 gun which I’ve read great things about, 4 Afghan fighters, and a Ural 4320 truck.
I cant seem to find any reviews of the 4320. Has anyone built this offering? If it’s even semi close in detail etc. to ICM’s Studebaker I’ll be very happy…
Thanks in advance,
Noah
As the review mentions, The Ural truck is a second-hand mold, from a defunct company called Omega-K. Fit is mediocre, tires a bit undersize to my eye, and the drivers' side window openings are a bit too small (easy to modify with an X-Acto kinfe, though--remove some plastic from the bottom edge).
The BS-3 100 mm gun is an ICM original, and it's a little gem. Aftermarket resin wheels are available for it, and as I recall, a turned metal barrel as well. It first appeared near the end of World War Two as an antitank gun, but continued in widespread service around the world as a field gun for over four decades.
spongya
Associate Editor
Joined: February 01, 2005
KitMaker: 2,365 posts
Armorama: 1,709 posts
Posted: Friday, October 31, 2008 - 06:31 AM UTC
I actually had driven a few Urals. They don't have power steering... (The topic reminded me to get a kit, so thanks.)
The BS-3 is a great kit -and you don't really need any AM. (Wouldn't it tip over if you use a metal barrel? It's as long as a Tiger.)
The BS-3 is a great kit -and you don't really need any AM. (Wouldn't it tip over if you use a metal barrel? It's as long as a Tiger.)
didgeboy
Joined: September 21, 2010
KitMaker: 1,846 posts
Armorama: 1,509 posts
Posted: Tuesday, January 17, 2012 - 05:24 PM UTC
Ok, reviving an old thread. Has anyone actually done a build log for the 4320? Or posted on all that needs to be done to this old dog to make it look presentable? I just picked up the Northern Alliance set and am keen on building it. Any and all help is appreciated. Cheers.
lukiftian
Joined: March 12, 2010
KitMaker: 791 posts
Armorama: 592 posts
Posted: Wednesday, January 18, 2012 - 03:14 AM UTC
It isn't that bad, but it's very challenging to build, on the under carriage you have to think several moves ahead in places. I started mine in 2000 and haven't finished it. Eduard does a PE set for it it's recommended.
The BS-3 is an outstanding kit from ICM. I believe there is a barrel for it, JR perhaps. The only thing I added were german style tool clamps
As for build logs you are officially elected
The BS-3 is an outstanding kit from ICM. I believe there is a barrel for it, JR perhaps. The only thing I added were german style tool clamps
As for build logs you are officially elected
didgeboy
Joined: September 21, 2010
KitMaker: 1,846 posts
Armorama: 1,509 posts
Posted: Wednesday, January 18, 2012 - 05:08 AM UTC
Thanks Kevin. . . .I think. . . . 
jointhepit
Joined: May 14, 2006
KitMaker: 3,829 posts
Armorama: 881 posts
Posted: Wednesday, January 18, 2012 - 07:07 AM UTC
basicly the same as Revell kit, as mentioned some scratchwork to be done on some parts, other parts are kinda rough, but with some TLC a bit of plastic card and copper wire you can get a decent model out of this kit, the only thing to be VERY aware of, the rubber wheels WILL melt your hubs like they were marshmellows, I have NOT had this problem with the revell kit, only with my Ural Grad from ICM, I made my own resin replacement wheels,using the original wheels,
If you wanne make it a very accurate model , I would recommend the build on planet armor, combined with the books on the subject,a lot of reading past Ural builds (lot's of links and clues)and some really hardcore dedication and scratchbuilding,you'd have to nearly scratchbuild the thing
OTTB , be carefull to build in stages, and the cab is a special one, I build it with the sidewalls/fenders in one piece, leaving the bottom of the cab off, and installed the engine later, dryfit before you do this, there are some (understatement of the month) adjsutments to be made to mak it fit, and fiddling the exhaust was just too frustrating, rather make one on before out of copper wire, you will not notice once build and might save you from some hairloss 
the spare wheel holder is also not fitting like a glove, rather like your wife's glove, looks the same, but your fingers get stuck halfway
lot's of cleaning the suspension also, and I'd suggest drilling some holes and replacing the linkage rods with them as they tend to fall out, (if not glued, but workable)
that's the first that came into mind, don't hesitate to pm me for some more info
Greetz Tha Pit
If you wanne make it a very accurate model , I would recommend the build on planet armor, combined with the books on the subject,a lot of reading past Ural builds (lot's of links and clues)and some really hardcore dedication and scratchbuilding,you'd have to nearly scratchbuild the thing
OTTB , be carefull to build in stages, and the cab is a special one, I build it with the sidewalls/fenders in one piece, leaving the bottom of the cab off, and installed the engine later, dryfit before you do this, there are some (understatement of the month) adjsutments to be made to mak it fit, and fiddling the exhaust was just too frustrating, rather make one on before out of copper wire, you will not notice once build and might save you from some hairloss
the spare wheel holder is also not fitting like a glove, rather like your wife's glove, looks the same, but your fingers get stuck halfway
lot's of cleaning the suspension also, and I'd suggest drilling some holes and replacing the linkage rods with them as they tend to fall out, (if not glued, but workable)
that's the first that came into mind, don't hesitate to pm me for some more info
Greetz Tha Pit
lukiftian
Joined: March 12, 2010
KitMaker: 791 posts
Armorama: 592 posts
Posted: Wednesday, January 18, 2012 - 08:39 PM UTC
Quoted Text
basicly the same as Revell kit, as mentioned some scratchwork to be done on some parts, other parts are kinda rough, but with some TLC a bit of plastic card and copper wire you can get a decent model out of this kit, the only thing to be VERY aware of, the rubber wheels WILL melt your hubs like they were marshmellows, I have NOT had this problem with the revell kit, only with my Ural Grad from ICM, I made my own resin replacement wheels,using the original wheels,
If you wanne make it a very accurate model , I would recommend the build on planet armor, combined with the books on the subject,a lot of reading past Ural builds (lot's of links and clues)and some really hardcore dedication and scratchbuilding,you'd have to nearly scratchbuild the thing
OTTB , be carefull to build in stages, and the cab is a special one, I build it with the sidewalls/fenders in one piece, leaving the bottom of the cab off, and installed the engine later, dryfit before you do this, there are some (understatement of the month) adjsutments to be made to mak it fit, and fiddling the exhaust was just too frustrating, rather make one on before out of copper wire, you will not notice once build and might save you from some hairloss
the spare wheel holder is also not fitting like a glove, rather like your wife's glove, looks the same, but your fingers get stuck halfway
lot's of cleaning the suspension also, and I'd suggest drilling some holes and replacing the linkage rods with them as they tend to fall out, (if not glued, but workable)
that's the first that came into mind, don't hesitate to pm me for some more info
Greetz Tha Pit
No problem at all with the original Omega-K tires against bare plastic. WWP does an excellent reference for this truck in both 4320 and 375 versions and their variants, including the cranes.
jointhepit
Joined: May 14, 2006
KitMaker: 3,829 posts
Armorama: 881 posts
Posted: Thursday, January 19, 2012 - 07:01 AM UTC
those were the works I was reff too, must be a strange mix in their tire rubber...
greetz
greetz
dunganon
Joined: March 05, 2012
KitMaker: 2 posts
Armorama: 1 posts
Posted: Monday, March 05, 2012 - 04:14 AM UTC
I'm in the middle o doing one as I write,very disappointing I thought no good glueing points on most of it none of the holes hardly line up the prop shafts,door hinges waste of time very disa ppointing i'm in two minds whether to carry on be glad to hear from you and see what you think
roland
roland
Removed by original poster on 03/05/12 - 17:41:17 (GMT).
roycharnock
Joined: July 26, 2009
KitMaker: 135 posts
Armorama: 134 posts
Posted: Monday, March 05, 2012 - 05:42 AM UTC
i use them for conversions,a bit of work and a nice paint job and they look pretty good
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