Here's the completed engine/transmission. Just needs some plumbing for detail.

Too dark?
The transmission and engine block were both unpainted aluminum and should probably be a lighter silver grey.
Nice otherwise though.

Mark

You're correct, they are aluminum. After recently removing the engine from my car -also all aluminum, I found it was mostly black from all the grime: covered in blackish goo!

Looks good keep us posted

Ah, true but was your engine only three weeks from the factory floor when you had to change it?

Any updates ready yet? Looking forward to seeing how this one builds out.

Mark

Next is the working suspension, complete with coil springs...

Next is the working suspension, complete with coil springs...

Hi Ted ,

This looks like a great build of a fantastic kit , will be keeping an eye on the progress

Regards

Jerry

I found the easiest way to install the springs was to first super-glue the metal coils to their related pinions while these parts were still on the sprue. This is the crucial step -you need an absolute rock-solid bond!
Next, cement the top eye of the springs (they have locating pins) into their homes in the inner hull. Install the torsion bars into the hull with their caps next, but don't insert the torsion bar locating pins into the bottom spring eyes yet. Finally, use a hooked piece of wire (a bent pin) to catch the spring eye and insert the torsion arm pin into the eye.
- sounds much worse than it really is! You should have no problems at all.

Remember, it's not a Panther: the T-34 suspension doesn't actually move up or down very far!

Here's the hull, pretty well on it's way to being finished...

Great work Ted. Very nice work indeed. Thanks for sharing. Great job.

I'm next starting on the turret interior -check out the detail of the gun recoil buffers (which will be hidden, anyways):

Hey Ted,
Coming along fine.
One point: The gun and all it's metal attachments would have been painted the same 4BO green as the exterior of the tank.
The breach block and interior face of the breach would be bare metal/silver.

Mark

Looks good so far, Ted. The interior looks very complete and opens up many possibilities for wrecked T-34s.

Looking forward to see more

Hi Ted!
Could you add a photo showing the other side of finished gun?? I have DML6418 T-34/76 with cast turret and planning to leave turret hatch open. Now DML has kindly left away all parts, that are needed to use the gun. Those black parts on left side of gun breech (for aiming?) in your last pic are missing from DML kit. Also right side is missing all details, so I have started to paln to scratch them. Thanks advance.

The turret going together...

THIS KIT REALLY DESERVES THE SEPARATELY -AVAILABLE INDY LINK SET FROM AFV CLUB:

Hi Ted

Nice T34, you have there!!

In your opinion, which kit would you prefer the T34/76 or T34/85 from AFV?
Any reasons for your choice?



Regards
Rattrap

Both kits are superb. The T-34/85 has more parts, and some minor issues from the /76 kit sorted-out. Get them both and you won't be sorry!

The AFVC tracks are really nice and very reasonably priced but are you going to use the type in photo on your model?
These would be common on later production Model '40s and many Model '41s (from time to time you may even see them on Model '42s but I suspect these were added well after production) but I have never seen them on any Factory 112 made tank.
The cast "waffle" pattern links would be more appropriate.

Quite right:
Both the appropriate latter-style "waffle" pattern and these early-style indy links are now available from AFV Club, but I'm anxiously awaiting the release of an early 1940/41 model T-34/76 to install these superb tracks onto (I don't own the Dragon kit). These links work like the real ones, with tiny connector pins, and they are easily assembled.

Yes, the AFV Club tracks are nice, very similar to Model Kasten's but less expensive.

Have they announced a Model 40 or 41? Wouldn't have thought they would if only because the HB/Trump origins of their T-34s.

Mark