Here's a few pics of my newly completed Tamiya AAPV7A. Built stock OOB. Tamiya and Model Master acrylics, oil washes and pastel chalks for weathering. I hate painting figures. Especially modern, multi-toned cammo ones.
Let me know what you think.
-G-
Constructive Feedback
For in-progress or completed build photos. Give and get contructive feedback!
For in-progress or completed build photos. Give and get contructive feedback!
Hosted by Darren Baker, Dave O'Meara
Tuna Boat finished
Lateral-G
United States
Joined: November 25, 2007
KitMaker: 96 posts
Armorama: 89 posts
Joined: November 25, 2007
KitMaker: 96 posts
Armorama: 89 posts
Posted: Thursday, December 31, 2009 - 04:20 PM UTC
jim81147
Colorado, United States
Joined: November 03, 2009
KitMaker: 56 posts
Armorama: 42 posts
Joined: November 03, 2009
KitMaker: 56 posts
Armorama: 42 posts
Posted: Friday, January 01, 2010 - 08:38 AM UTC
I really like how you did the water staining and light rusting . It turned out very nice.
monkybutt
New Jersey, United States
Joined: November 28, 2007
KitMaker: 381 posts
Armorama: 321 posts
Joined: November 28, 2007
KitMaker: 381 posts
Armorama: 321 posts
Posted: Friday, January 01, 2010 - 10:52 AM UTC
The vision blocks and shading looks great!
UncaBret
Illinois, United States
Joined: May 11, 2008
KitMaker: 767 posts
Armorama: 672 posts
Joined: May 11, 2008
KitMaker: 767 posts
Armorama: 672 posts
Posted: Friday, January 01, 2010 - 06:33 PM UTC
The roadwheel/track area looks a bit too clean, I think. Other than that it looks great!
Lateral-G
United States
Joined: November 25, 2007
KitMaker: 96 posts
Armorama: 89 posts
Joined: November 25, 2007
KitMaker: 96 posts
Armorama: 89 posts
Posted: Saturday, January 02, 2010 - 02:39 AM UTC
Thanks for the comments so far guys. Much appreciated.
Cheers,
-G-
Cheers,
-G-
skyhawk
Florida, United States
Joined: June 03, 2003
KitMaker: 1,095 posts
Armorama: 743 posts
Joined: June 03, 2003
KitMaker: 1,095 posts
Armorama: 743 posts
Posted: Saturday, January 02, 2010 - 04:26 AM UTC
from a former AAV crewcheif, looks pretty darn good. A few minor notes...
first, you have the water jets (buckets) open in the back. This only happens while in "water" mode, which if you are traveling on land you would not be in as water mode closes up the cooling air intakes for the radiator and directs all the engine coolant through a "contact cooler" on the bottom of the hull where it cools the engine coolant by transfering heat to the outside water while afloat. Basicly, if you are sitting on dry land, in water mode, you would overheat the engine within 5-10 minutes. So, the short of it is those jet deflectors should be closed.
the other is you have the bow plane partaly deployed. This should be tucked completly against the hull.
Now, if you were to place your model on a base with sand and partial surf, as though it had just climbed out of the water, then that would solve both of the above issues (the driver would be about to swich to land mode, and is in process of retracting the bow plane), PLUS that would take care of anothers comments about the lower hull/ tracks being too clean. You can use some Future (Johnson Kleer) to give the lower vehicle a wet look, and paint on using the future water splashes, and areas where the water is draining off the vehicle.
again, great looking model! Thanks for sharing!
Andy
first, you have the water jets (buckets) open in the back. This only happens while in "water" mode, which if you are traveling on land you would not be in as water mode closes up the cooling air intakes for the radiator and directs all the engine coolant through a "contact cooler" on the bottom of the hull where it cools the engine coolant by transfering heat to the outside water while afloat. Basicly, if you are sitting on dry land, in water mode, you would overheat the engine within 5-10 minutes. So, the short of it is those jet deflectors should be closed.
the other is you have the bow plane partaly deployed. This should be tucked completly against the hull.
Now, if you were to place your model on a base with sand and partial surf, as though it had just climbed out of the water, then that would solve both of the above issues (the driver would be about to swich to land mode, and is in process of retracting the bow plane), PLUS that would take care of anothers comments about the lower hull/ tracks being too clean. You can use some Future (Johnson Kleer) to give the lower vehicle a wet look, and paint on using the future water splashes, and areas where the water is draining off the vehicle.
again, great looking model! Thanks for sharing!
Andy
Lateral-G
United States
Joined: November 25, 2007
KitMaker: 96 posts
Armorama: 89 posts
Joined: November 25, 2007
KitMaker: 96 posts
Armorama: 89 posts
Posted: Saturday, January 02, 2010 - 04:39 AM UTC
Quoted Text
from a former AAV crewcheif, looks pretty darn good. A few minor notes...
first, you have the water jets (buckets) open in the back. This only happens while in "water" mode, which if you are traveling on land you would not be in as water mode closes up the cooling air intakes for the radiator and directs all the engine coolant through a "contact cooler" on the bottom of the hull where it cools the engine coolant by transfering heat to the outside water while afloat. Basicly, if you are sitting on dry land, in water mode, you would overheat the engine within 5-10 minutes. So, the short of it is those jet deflectors should be closed.
the other is you have the bow plane partaly deployed. This should be tucked completly against the hull.
Now, if you were to place your model on a base with sand and partial surf, as though it had just climbed out of the water, then that would solve both of the above issues (the driver would be about to swich to land mode, and is in process of retracting the bow plane), PLUS that would take care of anothers comments about the lower hull/ tracks being too clean. You can use some Future (Johnson Kleer) to give the lower vehicle a wet look, and paint on using the future water splashes, and areas where the water is draining off the vehicle.
again, great looking model! Thanks for sharing!
Andy
Thanks for the input Andy. Always nice to hear from someone that knows the real deal.
As to the bow plane and thruster buckets, both can be moved. I just positioned the jet deflectors open for the pictures. Since they can move I can close 'em up if needed. The bow plane also moves. It just doesn't have enough friction to stay in the stowed or deployed position. I can fix that as well.
Your diorama base idea sounds neat and I just may have to try it. That would certainly set the model off nicely. thanks for the tip!
cheers!
-G-
MSGsummit
Tennessee, United States
Joined: November 16, 2002
KitMaker: 751 posts
Armorama: 545 posts
Joined: November 16, 2002
KitMaker: 751 posts
Armorama: 545 posts
Posted: Sunday, January 03, 2010 - 02:22 AM UTC
Nice looking AAV! Took me back about 15 years to when I was a crewchief on one of those. Man what a blast operating those things were!