It's a good start. I'd point out that hatch interiors were nearly always painted in the exterior color for the reason made obvious in the photos--white paint was glaringly bright and would compromise the camouflage when viewed from above (like from an aircraft). This was true in most armies, then and now. Before you proceed with weathering, you need to deal with any silvering of the decals. If you apply decals to flat paint rather than gloss, the roughness of the paint surface traps a film of air underneath the decal, causing the decal film to look silvery. In the picture, it looks like the numbers have this effect, (though it's possible that it's an illusion caused by glare). You may be able to decrease this by applying a decal solvent solution, which will soften the decal and help it snuggle down to the surface. Large bubbles under a decal can be pricked with a pin before applying the solvent.
For the future, apply a gloss clear coat to the model before applying waterslide decals. Apply them with a decal softening solution. Once dry, overspray the model with more clear gloss to seal them. Proceed with any washes, glazes or dry brushing, and then overspray with a clear flat to kill the shine. If you like pastel chalks, they should be used last of all, as clear coats can darken or dissolve them entirely. Dry pigments may be applied before or after a clear flat coat, depending on your preference. They are more saturated than pastels, but may still be altered by a clear lacquer, so experiment a bit.