I'm fairly new to armor building, having a background in military aircraft modeling, but I've been bit by the bug, and came over to the darkside. I've signed on for two campaigns, The All American Tracks which started at the beginning of June, and the OOB campaign starting in July. The All American Tracks build is strictly an OOB DML M4A1 DV, as I figure I've got a lot to learn,especially when it comes to weathering.
I've posted my build to date in the campaign thread, but it seems that most of the guys who signed on, haven't started as yet, so I thought I'd would move my build thread over here for honest constructive criticism.
The basic build took only a week or so to get this this point.
Then it was pointed out to me that I forgot to roll the front PE fenders, so I did.
Then I primed with Tamiya lacquer based primer.
Yesterday, I did the Sand, OD camo paint scheme from Operation Husky.
Next up is glossing with Glosscoat, then decaling, and another coat of Glosscoat.
Then it's unchartered territory with weathering.
Constructive Feedback
For in-progress or completed build photos. Give and get contructive feedback!
For in-progress or completed build photos. Give and get contructive feedback!
Hosted by Darren Baker, Dave O'Meara
DML M4A1 DV
Joel_W
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Posted: Sunday, June 12, 2011 - 11:40 AM UTC
armagh5
Northern Ireland, United Kingdom
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Posted: Sunday, June 12, 2011 - 01:41 PM UTC
i like it
ive just got into shemans in the last couple of months
i now know what in looking at a lot better than i used to
i might get one of these kits
youve done a good job
regards andrew
ive just got into shemans in the last couple of months
i now know what in looking at a lot better than i used to
i might get one of these kits
youve done a good job
regards andrew
HONEYCUT
Victoria, Australia
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Posted: Sunday, June 12, 2011 - 08:18 PM UTC
Gday Joel
It looks to be well assembled and your painting is very good. I wish I'd have caught you prior to priming, as the vertical lines either side of the shell ejection port on the rear left side of the turret need to be removed. The small space left above the left side bolted flange on the front 3 piece housing could have done with some filling as it should reach the top of that space even with the bolt attachment strip.
Look forward to how you tackle the weathering
Brad
It looks to be well assembled and your painting is very good. I wish I'd have caught you prior to priming, as the vertical lines either side of the shell ejection port on the rear left side of the turret need to be removed. The small space left above the left side bolted flange on the front 3 piece housing could have done with some filling as it should reach the top of that space even with the bolt attachment strip.
Look forward to how you tackle the weathering
Brad
Joel_W
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Posted: Monday, June 13, 2011 - 01:46 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Gday Joel
It looks to be well assembled and your painting is very good. I wish I'd have caught you prior to priming, as the vertical lines either side of the shell ejection port on the rear left side of the turret need to be removed. The small space left above the left side bolted flange on the front 3 piece housing could have done with some filling as it should reach the top of that space even with the bolt attachment strip.
Look forward to how you tackle the weathering
Brad
Brad,
Thanks for the feedback, that's exactly what I'm looking for. Sure wish I moved my build thread to this forum earlier. Will certainly remove those pesky seems on my next M4. Never even noticed that space till you mentioned it. Decided that it's an easy fix, so I filled that space with Squadron white putty. a touch of paint, and finished off with dry brushing the same color to blend it in, and it's like it never existed.
As for the weathering, there's so many ways of going about it, that it's really confusing. I know that I need to bleach the areas that face the sun. I thought about adding white to the colors and lightly going over those areas in a spoty fashion. Seems to me that it's real easy to get over spray where I don't want it, so I've opted to try using oils. the use of dots of various colors to lighten as well as streak the colors on the sides as well. A pin wash to add shadows to all the bolts, nooks & crannies, And finally a blackish wash to help blend everything together, then seal with Dullcoat.
Next up is drybrushing with greys, & aluminum, and rust.
From there I'll do a few light coats of different shades of Sand/Tan colors.
Everything below the fenders will get a concentration of Sand, dry brushing light greys, and highlighting with aluminum & Rust, then a light coating of rust to blend it all together.
That's the plan. Easier said then done.
Joel_W
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Posted: Friday, June 17, 2011 - 04:52 AM UTC
just a quick update.
Glossed the model with Pledge with a med brush. Gave it two coats. Next day I decaled using Microscale's system of Set & Sol. I was really surprised at just how good DML's decals are. Thin, but not too thin. Layed down perfectly with no silvering or flash. I only had to use Sol just once on one turret decal with just too many compound curves for it to handle. The only negative I have about the decals is a minor issue, and that's DML figured out how to use the least possible amount of backing paper. I had some real issues trying to carefully cut out some of the decals. A little bigger decal sheet would have made it so much easier.
Glossed the model with Pledge with a med brush. Gave it two coats. Next day I decaled using Microscale's system of Set & Sol. I was really surprised at just how good DML's decals are. Thin, but not too thin. Layed down perfectly with no silvering or flash. I only had to use Sol just once on one turret decal with just too many compound curves for it to handle. The only negative I have about the decals is a minor issue, and that's DML figured out how to use the least possible amount of backing paper. I had some real issues trying to carefully cut out some of the decals. A little bigger decal sheet would have made it so much easier.
stevieneon
England - West Midlands, United Kingdom
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Posted: Friday, June 17, 2011 - 08:30 AM UTC
Hi. You glossed it with PLEDGE, the furniture polish? Never heard of that before but the model looks fantastic! Very well done. I love the shape of the cast hull M4A1's. Stevie.
BigSmitty
Minnesota, United States
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Posted: Friday, June 17, 2011 - 08:39 AM UTC
Pledge (at least over here now) is the old Future. I think the bottle says something like "Pledge with Future Floor Shine". My bottle is about 5 years old and still proudly says "Future". I think that may be what he used.
On a side note, Joel, I have that kit as well, along with some other Dragon/DML Sherman variants. Never did a Sherman before, and was really inspired by your build. Guess I may have to break out that Firefly Vc or Sherman MkIII in Sicily markings for the Allied Armor campaign...
On a side note, Joel, I have that kit as well, along with some other Dragon/DML Sherman variants. Never did a Sherman before, and was really inspired by your build. Guess I may have to break out that Firefly Vc or Sherman MkIII in Sicily markings for the Allied Armor campaign...
trahe
Virginia, United States
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Posted: Friday, June 17, 2011 - 10:52 AM UTC
Looks good. Clean build. Good camouflage job. My only nit-pick (and I might be wrong, so I will defer to those more knowledgable) is that the stars are on wrong. I believe (and again, I might be wrong) that the point that aligns exactly with a break in the surrounding circle should point up.
richardw
England - East Anglia, United Kingdom
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Posted: Friday, June 17, 2011 - 12:28 PM UTC
Hi.
I think you'll find that "Pledge" and "Future" in the States, are what we in the UK know as "Klear" (not sure of spelling). Its a water based polish intended to to gloss hard floors. Comes in a black, metal can. I've seen it on sale in various hardware stores.
Squaddies used to use it to shine parade boots, but the shine wasn't anywhere near as deep as a real spit and polish gloss and could be spotted by a "Drill Pig" from accross the paradeground, bringing much suffering to the guilty individual.
Yep..Guess how I know!
I think you'll find that "Pledge" and "Future" in the States, are what we in the UK know as "Klear" (not sure of spelling). Its a water based polish intended to to gloss hard floors. Comes in a black, metal can. I've seen it on sale in various hardware stores.
Squaddies used to use it to shine parade boots, but the shine wasn't anywhere near as deep as a real spit and polish gloss and could be spotted by a "Drill Pig" from accross the paradeground, bringing much suffering to the guilty individual.
Yep..Guess how I know!
Joel_W
Associate Editor
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Posted: Friday, June 17, 2011 - 04:01 PM UTC
Thanks guys for the feedback.
Yes, the Pledge sold here says with Future, and is an acrylic floor sealer.
As for having the wrong point of the star facing up, I just checked the instructions again, and you're right. What a dumb mistake, but I honestly didn't know nor realize that. Will never make that mistake again. Unfortunately, there is nothing I can do about it now.
The feedback I'm getting here is just fantastic. I'm really learning from my mistakes. Hopefully, the next few tanks will show that progress.
Yes, the Pledge sold here says with Future, and is an acrylic floor sealer.
As for having the wrong point of the star facing up, I just checked the instructions again, and you're right. What a dumb mistake, but I honestly didn't know nor realize that. Will never make that mistake again. Unfortunately, there is nothing I can do about it now.
The feedback I'm getting here is just fantastic. I'm really learning from my mistakes. Hopefully, the next few tanks will show that progress.
Big-John
Ohio, United States
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Posted: Monday, June 20, 2011 - 12:12 PM UTC
Hi Joel,
Your Sherman is looking good! May I ask what paint did you use for the sand and olive drab?
It looks like you got a good match compared to color photos I have seen of Sherman’s in operation Husky.
Your Sherman is looking good! May I ask what paint did you use for the sand and olive drab?
It looks like you got a good match compared to color photos I have seen of Sherman’s in operation Husky.
collin26
Connecticut, United States
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Posted: Monday, June 20, 2011 - 12:52 PM UTC
Nice work so far. I personaly am not the bigest fan of Shermans but you are making this one look very interesting! Looking forward to the progress pictures.
Joel_W
Associate Editor
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Posted: Monday, June 20, 2011 - 12:57 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Hi Joel,
Your Sherman is looking good! May I ask what paint did you use for the sand and olive drab?
It looks like you got a good match compared to color photos I have seen of Sherman’s in operation Husky.
The Olive Drab is Model Master Acrylic OD straight. The Sand is Model Master Acrylic # 4812 Army/Marines Gulf Amor with a touch of yellow and white.
After a darkish filter then several oil washes, the colors have changed so much that they don't look anything like what I started with.
Kharkov
Joined: April 09, 2011
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Posted: Tuesday, June 21, 2011 - 02:53 AM UTC
This little Sherman looks so good, the cast hull just makes it look fantastic.
Your camo scheme just brings it to life, very nice
210cav
Virginia, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, June 21, 2011 - 03:53 AM UTC
Joel-- nice looking vehicle. Your responsiveness to the observations of some very sharp subject matter experts is greatly enhancing the model and your reputation. Well done.
DJ
DJ
HONEYCUT
Victoria, Australia
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Posted: Tuesday, June 21, 2011 - 04:18 AM UTC
Hey Joel
the decals have bedded down great mate.
Hard to tell, but make certain the co ax .30cal is centralised in the mantlet slot.
You can retrospectively add some subtle weld details with OD tinted putty. I have done this myself several times. Places like the base of the sighting vane, the pioneer tool brackets, basically anywhere where an addition has been permanently attached to the hull, and work the weld with a toothpick or similar.
Well take a step back! If you want to try, it should be relatively simple for someone of your capabilities. Simply delete the gaps in the circle with white paint resulting in a solid circle. To this, simply add the thin OD lines to segment the circle again at 12 o'clock, 3, 6 and 9...
Brad
the decals have bedded down great mate.
Hard to tell, but make certain the co ax .30cal is centralised in the mantlet slot.
You can retrospectively add some subtle weld details with OD tinted putty. I have done this myself several times. Places like the base of the sighting vane, the pioneer tool brackets, basically anywhere where an addition has been permanently attached to the hull, and work the weld with a toothpick or similar.
Quoted Text
As for having the wrong point of the star facing up, I just checked the instructions again, and you're right. Unfortunately, there is nothing I can do about it now.
Well take a step back! If you want to try, it should be relatively simple for someone of your capabilities. Simply delete the gaps in the circle with white paint resulting in a solid circle. To this, simply add the thin OD lines to segment the circle again at 12 o'clock, 3, 6 and 9...
Brad
Kharkov
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Posted: Tuesday, June 21, 2011 - 07:51 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Hey Joel
the decals have bedded down great mate.
Hard to tell, but make certain the co ax .30cal is centralised in the mantlet slot.
You can retrospectively add some subtle weld details with OD tinted putty. I have done this myself several times. Places like the base of the sighting vane, the pioneer tool brackets, basically anywhere where an addition has been permanently attached to the hull, and work the weld with a toothpick or similar.
Quoted Text
As for having the wrong point of the star facing up, I just checked the instructions again, and you're right. Unfortunately, there is nothing I can do about it now.
Well take a step back! If you want to try, it should be relatively simple for someone of your capabilities. Simply delete the gaps in the circle with white paint resulting in a solid circle. To this, simply add the thin OD lines to segment the circle again at 12 o'clock, 3, 6 and 9...
Brad
I was thinking exactly the same thing,
You could do it as part of the weathering process, ie, add some liitle chipping to the white circles, just make them look a little tatty, but nothing over the top
Joel_W
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Posted: Tuesday, June 21, 2011 - 09:21 AM UTC
Thanks guys for all the positive feedback and support. This being my 1st real armor effort, I expected to make a lot of dumb mistakes, and I've been right on the money with that.
Looks like I missed some solid advice with filling in the gaps in the white circles, then painting the new openings with OD I've already done a darkish brown filter, and several washes,
Will give some thought to hand painting new OD lines in the circles, and filling in the original ones.
I'm trying to focus all my efforts towards learning how to achieve a perfect box stock model. Once I can do that, or at least have the building tools needed, I'll be ready to tackle the next two projects I've been planning. Both are geared for the 2012 IPMS Noreastcon, and will also be used for campaigns here on Armorama.
The 1st one will be a OOB build of a M7 Priest. With the open turret, detail painting and weathering should help to produce a competitive model. The 2nd
entry is a detailed M3A1 Stuart by Academy. I've ordered the Legend M3 replacement turret, and their generic stowage set. I also order Steve Zaloga's M3/M5 book, but not the one on building Stuarts as it is too focused on the old Tamiya kit. Between the interior detail in the Academy kit, and Zologa's book, I hope to build a fair detailed M3A1 that should be at least competitive.
Looks like I missed some solid advice with filling in the gaps in the white circles, then painting the new openings with OD I've already done a darkish brown filter, and several washes,
Will give some thought to hand painting new OD lines in the circles, and filling in the original ones.
I'm trying to focus all my efforts towards learning how to achieve a perfect box stock model. Once I can do that, or at least have the building tools needed, I'll be ready to tackle the next two projects I've been planning. Both are geared for the 2012 IPMS Noreastcon, and will also be used for campaigns here on Armorama.
The 1st one will be a OOB build of a M7 Priest. With the open turret, detail painting and weathering should help to produce a competitive model. The 2nd
entry is a detailed M3A1 Stuart by Academy. I've ordered the Legend M3 replacement turret, and their generic stowage set. I also order Steve Zaloga's M3/M5 book, but not the one on building Stuarts as it is too focused on the old Tamiya kit. Between the interior detail in the Academy kit, and Zologa's book, I hope to build a fair detailed M3A1 that should be at least competitive.
210cav
Virginia, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, June 21, 2011 - 09:27 AM UTC
Joel-- best of luck to you.
DJ
DJ
Spiderfrommars
Milano, Italy
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Posted: Tuesday, June 21, 2011 - 09:42 AM UTC
Looks incredibly good
congrats
congrats
FD3S20B
California, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, June 22, 2011 - 03:19 AM UTC
looks really good joel
Joel_W
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Posted: Thursday, June 23, 2011 - 04:48 AM UTC
Here's another small photo update. The weathering from fenders up is basically done. Just a little rust, grime, and a dust wash, and feathering the dust from the bottom of the fenders up, then a good solid coat of flat. I had to break off the 30 cal gun and re-glue it so that it was as close to parallel to the 75 mm cannon as possible.
Everything below the fenders is really in the early stages of weathering as I feel my way through it. Applied a black wash, several dust washes, then dry brushed some aluminum on the high spots. Need to work on the details, and dirty it up more.
The tracks are still in the basic stages of being painted. Will do most of the dry brushing and weathering for wear and tear off the tank, then install them, and a final air brushed wash of dirt, then dust to hopefully blend everything together. Then it's done for my 1st OOB build.
As you can see I chickened out from trying to correct the white circles around the stars.
Here's a few pictures to bring you up to date.
Everything below the fenders is really in the early stages of weathering as I feel my way through it. Applied a black wash, several dust washes, then dry brushed some aluminum on the high spots. Need to work on the details, and dirty it up more.
The tracks are still in the basic stages of being painted. Will do most of the dry brushing and weathering for wear and tear off the tank, then install them, and a final air brushed wash of dirt, then dust to hopefully blend everything together. Then it's done for my 1st OOB build.
As you can see I chickened out from trying to correct the white circles around the stars.
Here's a few pictures to bring you up to date.
Joel_W
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Posted: Saturday, June 25, 2011 - 01:48 PM UTC
Well thanks to all that responded with some great advice, the M4A1 DV Sherman is done, and I've completed my 1st campaign as well. Here's some pictures of my finished effort. Any and all comments are welcomed.
lukiftian
British Columbia, Canada
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Posted: Saturday, June 25, 2011 - 04:24 PM UTC
Tracks are a little loose, needs a coat of flat and maybe a light dusting with pastels, otherwise I like the restrained weathering.
Kharkov
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Posted: Saturday, June 25, 2011 - 08:33 PM UTC
Tracks are very loose, not sitting on the drive sprockets properly or the return rollers properly, can you remove a few links ?
And maybe a few paint chips round the main hatch and on the stars/circles.