OK. I know I have several Pz.III&IV shelf queens. However, except for a couple of campaigns this one will be finished. I'm going all out for a contest build. I plan on picking up another Voyager pe set and a spares kit. I will be using Legends stowage and TWS full interior. I'm going for a captured tank, in Tunisia. I highly recommend this kit. The level of detailing is outstanding. I had purchased two metal mg barrels, but the kit detail is better. I have Aber fenders, but need to cut some supports for it. I will be buying five British in N. Africa figures. They are all resin and high quality. Here are just two progress photos. I'll be posting photos of completed sub-assemblies, only.





More, soon.

Matt;

Looking good! I'm going to guess that this might be the subject vehicle behind your painting query... So, is this that CH 501 III-N kit?

Going "all out" for a contest - full interior, extra PE, etc.? OK. I would suggest that you ditch that styrene tow-cable and replace it with picture wire or another medium (use those available cable-ends!) and some PE or styrene-sheet clamps and holders.

Of course, seeing as you mentioned some load stuff... you may be hiding much of this cable, but if it is to be visible on your build, I think it would be a good hi-point for stepping-up - at least as I see things!

Just an idea!

Bob

Yes, this is the reason for my paint query. I intend to purchase the AK North Africa paint set. You have one, in your stash? Break it out! This is the best detail oob I have ever encountered. I've tossed aside metal barrels and resin parts as those provided have sharper detail. The Voyager set provides a comprehensive exterior. Howering, the interior detail is sparse. Having worked with TWS, before I expect that will give me all the detail I can stand. I may tear the tow cable off, at a later date. As is, bending the pe into the desired shape is beyond me. I'm going out, with a bang. Currently stocking up on wingy things. That's right... My nemesis.

Just curious, Matt. Will the turret allow the main engine hatch to be opened that far?

Hadn't taken that into consideration. However, I use Tamiya cement. So, it's an easy fix if I have to adjust it.

Another color query. Does anybody know what color the fire extinguisher should be? I want to paint it as if it was added after the camo was applied.

Matt;

Fire bottles came in a wide range of colors, although the red, blue, and yellow ones were much more common earlier in the war. The Germans used a small number of standard commercial models made by the Tetra company - typically these came in industrial colors, including semi-gloss dark gray, green, red, blue, yellow, with various logo and instructional decals pretty prominent under the handles. Later in the war it appears evident that many tank crew would paint them along with camo coats, and many pictures of historic relics show that the original shiny colors were often over-painted with dunkelgelb. For all I know, rear-area shops may have repainted fire bottles in DG on a regular basis? Most bottles appeared to have their labels and decals pretty visible and intact - thus those Tetra decals we see.

For a 1942 - '43 DAK tank, probably a chipped red one would be OK, as tanks were hard to hide in any case out in the desert. Late-war tanks may more often have carried repainted bottles - not that a small red bottle would make a 40-ton tank suddenly substantially more visible to a roving JABO!

Bob

Bob: Thanks. I have to pick up some Archer transfers, for it. Keeping my wallet empty, but well worth it. This has been a very enjoyable build, excepting the tow cable brackets.

About the engine hatch. Isn't it possible that the hatch did open that far? I find it hard to believe that a tank would enter combat, with this open.

I would guess that those hatches did open near to that far, IF the turret and its bin were turned appropriately. The original function of the hatch is to allow access to the top of the engine - presumably for in-place servicing - NOT, in the first instance, for engine ventilation or cooling. I would presume that the turret would be cranked around as needed. And IF the hatch did NOT open well past its upright point, it would definitely need some sort of latch, block, or keeper to keep it safely up... otherwise it would drop and smash someone - unsecured hatches being spiteful in that way!

Were these hatches propped open when on the move or inaction?
Well... Originally, Pz. III rear-deck hatches were solid covers for engine access, and not for ventilation. Africa challenged the cooling and crew doubtless found themselves propping hatches open a bit to avoid boiling the engine. (But IF propped or latched all the way open, it would interfere with the turret.) The tropical mod of cutting holes in those hatches and fitting domed covers over them was a solution provided so that crew did NOT try to drive along with hatches propped partially open. Open hatches have a habit of allowing grenades and stuff to get into places they should not be...

Bob

I went ahead and repositioned it, so that it would not interfere with the turret. I think it should rest on the turret basket, as I now have it.

I brought up the question only because it looked like it was angled so much that it wouldn't allow the turret to fit at all. Of course, when it's open, it's going to lean against some part of the turret.