OK having found the answer to my initial question here I can now start this topic about this recently released kit.
The detail is basic as can be seen on the cabin pictures. Most of the parts have a prominent molding line or large ejection pin marks. So be prepared to do some tedious cleaning work before gluing anything.
The fit is quite good.

Here are some pictures.
First the undercarriage with the engine in place.







The troop compartment (partly weathered so far). It is intentionnally painted lighter than it should be as I'll only let the driver door open.







The cargo compartment





A test fit of the sub-assemblies.



It will be a bit larger than I expected. I'll paint it in the desert scheme proposed by Revell in the instructions so I first have to order the Vallejo set.

Olivier

Nice work so far Olivier!

Revell appear to have produced a really rather nice kit here, the interior looks suitably busy to add some interest through the windows. Just might have to get one of these.

great start on the dingo.cant wait to see it finished.

You're right Rob, it will do the trick through the windows. If you intend to open the doors, expect to have more detailing job as lots of things are simplified.
The dashboard is quite good with decals to give it some "life".
The inner padding is not present and Revell have you depicting it by painting the specific areas.
No seat belts are given. Here is some room for AM stuff.

Olivier

Hi Olivier, you right about the interior. Especially the 1530 weapons station need some details on the cranks and sights. For pictures, you can also refer to the weapons station on the Fennek.
Hans-Hermann

Nice start Oliver, watching with interest to see how this looks

Nice job on the interior. The details are lifted nicely and are perfectly adequate. Would be an idea to add some personal stuff with a little colour, to add evn more interest.

Hi Hans-Hermann
I got a couple of pics takne in Afghanistan to help detailing a bit the gunner station.

For all interested in this vehicle, the kit wheels are too small. In 1/1 scale they would be 1050 mm diameter and 350 mm wide while they should be 1100 mm diameter and 365 mm wide. Thanks H-H

If a member could compare with the Real Models and the DEF Models wheels, it would be great.

Olivier

Houston, erh Revell, we got a problem !
The roof definitely does not sit on the cabin.





Obviously it is the black duct which generates the problem. The bend in the part overlaps the rear wall.
I will have to do some surgery there.



Did another member also encounter this problem or did I mess the things up?
Moreover the four doors are bent so the glasses can't properly sit in their frame. Not hard to fix but a bit annoying.

Olivier

Hi!
I can confirm that you did not mess things up. Same problem with the turret roof during my build. I also shortened the duct to solve the problem. No problem that I do remember with the side doors in my kit.

Andreas

Hello Andreas,I finally managed to fix the roof issue. I just cut the end near the rear wall by 1 mm and I put the roof in force.
It looks good now.
Concerning the doors, the upper part where you have to insert the glasses is bent outward. It is not hard to fix by glueing the doors to the cabin but the "damage" definitely prevents to let a door open.
I have some bad experience with trying to reshape a plastic part with heat. Unlike resin, plastic doesn't give you another opportunity if you fail the first time.

What do you think of the weapon station sights and controls? From the pictures I have, it is a total failure. I just added the controls and the rubber protections for the eyesights which can be visible through the gunner hatch but I think an AM part is a need/must if you intend to let the rear doors open.

Olivier

Hi Oliver,
I must confess that this was an OOB build for me only, I was not so much looking for mistakes. I clearly recognized the areas where the fit was not to optimum, and I myself was not really satisfied with the rear of the trunk section which could have been created a little nicer when it comes to the fit of the top canvas and the canvas rear. Can also be seen on your pictures. However, I did realize that the kit is a little basic in areas (as is the weapon station) but I know it is a Revell kit, and since I built PzH2000 with all its crude and basic details and the horrible tracks, I was quite satisfied with the Dingo as it is one of their better kits IMO. But, there is plenty room for improvement AM parts as you said. Lets see how long it takes until the first improvement set enters the market!

Andreas

Andreas

Bonjour, Olivier,

Quite recognisable, these not too well fit problems in Revell's program. And a pitty indeed, since they produce nice models, esp. those from the Bundeswehr. (not to speak about their rather strange policy of availability).

I faced some wrapping challenges with my MAN 5t.

To solve the wrapping of some parts, you may try very hot water. I used water that was near to the boiling point.
Leave it there, until you are sure that the temperature of the parts is realy warm. Now, you may carefully try to bend them into the right form. As this is done, put them in cold water. By using water, a more equal and controlled weakening of the plastic is realised, without any risk of, literally, burning or melting your parts.
No need to warn you about the risks of hot water ( I guess, while stating this I will be freed from any US lawyer )

"You mean my fresh cup of coffee is hot!?"

Hi all,
here are some more pictures. The cabin, the cargo and the engine hood are dry fitted onto the chassis to have an idea of the final result.





For your information, some details are really basic to say the least. Just have a look at the mirrors supports which are molded solid with the back of the mirrors !



The build is nearly complete. I'm now waiting for the Vallejo ISAF paint set to arrive to start painting.

By the way, I could get my hands on the actual Dingo dimensions and compare them with the kit ones. Revell have done a great job dimension wise. The only flaw is the size of the tires. While the rim is correct, the tire is not large enough. The tire diameter should be larger of 1.4 mm in 1/35 scale.

Olivier

Hopefully, the am people will pick up on such an interesting kit. I can already see that I would have to separate the mirrors and rebuild the mounting hardware.

Matt,
You're right about the AM guys. I gave the tip about the wheels so one can check which resin set is the best between Real Models and DEF Models.
I'd love seeing the FLW 200 EWS in resin. It would need a modified interior so the price would certainly be a bit high but the look of it is way more aggressive than the original weapon station.

Hi there,

installing te FLW 200 is not as easy. On the real truck, a different hatch for reloading the weapon is installed, The FLW is mounted on a pedeatal in front. In best case a whole new roof is required.

Hello all
I forgot to post some pictures of the painting stage.
Here are some of the Dingo nearly ready to roll out for patrol.
The wheels are just in place for the pics as I still don't know whether or not I put sagged resin ones.








The colors are from the Vallejo Umtarnfarben set. I don't like them as they tend to clog my AB but they are true to the RAL ones.

Olivier

Really nice!

I love this paint scheme.

Cheers!

Marco

Nice build Olivier! Did you like the kit or was it like revell kit use to be? Bad fit and so on... But i like your model

Wow !
You did a really good job on the camp !
Well done !

Cheers
Christopher

Nice paint job and good recovery of the wing mirrors.

Just started my own this evening: remains to be seen if I managed to keep the chassis straight and level. It's a rather fiddley assembly.

Thank you all for the comments.
The kit is Revell standard that is soft detail in some areas. This lets room for detailing. On my model the four doors were warped so gluing the clear windows was a bit challenging.

The build is not that hard but the chassis step is a bit tough and needs some attention to get the pieces straight. When it's done the rest of the build is quite straightforward.
Some modelers encountered some trouble when fitting the rear piece of tarp over the cargo compartment. This did not happen to me.

The molding lines can be huge especially on the chassis parts. And I would advise not to glue the rear foot-steps till the end of the painting step. Mine broke at least three times and I finally replaced them with some metal wire and plastic strips.

The interior is a good base. But again there is plenty of room for detailing.

Olivier

Nice build, Olivier!

Good to see you solved the duct-problem and the paintjob is nicly done.
I have to add another model to my wishlist ;-)

cheers
Walter