I am offering this thread as a construction tip/how to. I hope this technique is helpful to all modelers and not something so simplistic that I would be the only one who doesn't know about it already.
I call it: stack / glue / shape / cut . . . .
Making Front Bumper Braces for the MAZ 537.
Building ladder rack bumper storage mounts for a Mack NO Artillery Tractor.
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Russian or Soviet vehicles/armor modeling forum.
Russian or Soviet vehicles/armor modeling forum.
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Making repetitive, multiple flat parts
Posted: Monday, December 08, 2014 - 04:27 AM UTC
Posted: Monday, December 08, 2014 - 04:56 AM UTC
Starting with the Bumper Braces: - I needed four matching profile pieces - 3 weight reduction holes each.
For this I started with 4 Evergreen stripes .020" x .250" cut approximately one inch longer than the finished piece.
I stacked the four pieces, gluing ONLY the overhanging ends together.
I sketched a rough pencil layout on the parts stack, drilled small guide holes, then used progressively larger drill bits, drilling BY HAND to form the perforations. I then used a jeweler's saw and files to form the shape of the part.
Now using the jeweler's saw cut the parts on each end to free them from the stack.
For this I started with 4 Evergreen stripes .020" x .250" cut approximately one inch longer than the finished piece.
I stacked the four pieces, gluing ONLY the overhanging ends together.
I sketched a rough pencil layout on the parts stack, drilled small guide holes, then used progressively larger drill bits, drilling BY HAND to form the perforations. I then used a jeweler's saw and files to form the shape of the part.
Now using the jeweler's saw cut the parts on each end to free them from the stack.
Posted: Monday, December 08, 2014 - 05:09 AM UTC
Posted: Monday, December 08, 2014 - 05:19 AM UTC
Moving on to the ladder racks for the Big Mack:
Again I cut four pieces of Evergreen strip approximately one inch longer than the finished length of the piece. I stacked then together gluing just the ends of the strips.
As with the Bumper Braces I drilled them all at the same time (BY HAND - no motors here) and used a saw and files to form the part stack into the finished profile.
In the case of ladder building however, an additional step is necessary:
Cut the parts free of the stack BUT continue to leave a bit of excess strip stock temporarily on each end.
Now using thicker strip stock cut four IDENTICAL spacer bars. Use these spacers as a gluing jig to hold the ladder rails the desired distance apart.
In the photo below, I have glued the spacers bars to the ends of the ladder rails. And I have begun inserting Evergreen rod into the drill holes to form the ladder rungs and gluing them in place.
Once dry and firmly set-up trim the ladder rungs just slightly longer the the width of the finished ladder to represent spot welds or bolt heads holding the ladder rungs to the side rails.
Finally, cut the overall ladder to the desired length.
Again I cut four pieces of Evergreen strip approximately one inch longer than the finished length of the piece. I stacked then together gluing just the ends of the strips.
As with the Bumper Braces I drilled them all at the same time (BY HAND - no motors here) and used a saw and files to form the part stack into the finished profile.
In the case of ladder building however, an additional step is necessary:
Cut the parts free of the stack BUT continue to leave a bit of excess strip stock temporarily on each end.
Now using thicker strip stock cut four IDENTICAL spacer bars. Use these spacers as a gluing jig to hold the ladder rails the desired distance apart.
In the photo below, I have glued the spacers bars to the ends of the ladder rails. And I have begun inserting Evergreen rod into the drill holes to form the ladder rungs and gluing them in place.
Once dry and firmly set-up trim the ladder rungs just slightly longer the the width of the finished ladder to represent spot welds or bolt heads holding the ladder rungs to the side rails.
Finally, cut the overall ladder to the desired length.
Posted: Monday, December 08, 2014 - 05:46 AM UTC
Neo
North Carolina, United States
Joined: January 20, 2005
KitMaker: 916 posts
Armorama: 758 posts
Joined: January 20, 2005
KitMaker: 916 posts
Armorama: 758 posts
Posted: Monday, December 08, 2014 - 05:48 AM UTC
Quoted Text
I hope this technique is helpful to all modelers and not something so simplistic that I would be the only one who doesn't know about it already.
I call it: stack / glue / shape / cut . . .
Never be shy w/ a tip, always someone who can use it. I was doing: stack / TAPE / shape / cut / REDO ... (parts would move under the tape) Never thought of the glue idea - good call Michael.
Posted: Monday, December 08, 2014 - 06:23 AM UTC
Posted: Monday, December 08, 2014 - 06:27 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Never be shy w/ a tip, always someone who can use it. I was doing: stack / TAPE / shape / cut / REDO ... (parts would move under the tape) Never thought of the glue idea - good call Michael.
Thanks Tom
mokush
Heves, Hungary
Joined: October 25, 2009
KitMaker: 216 posts
Armorama: 205 posts
Joined: October 25, 2009
KitMaker: 216 posts
Armorama: 205 posts
Posted: Monday, December 08, 2014 - 09:52 AM UTC
Hello,
I "invented" the same method, but I use Gunze Mr. Cement (orange cap), that does not melt the plastic, so the whole surface can be glued.
I "invented" the same method, but I use Gunze Mr. Cement (orange cap), that does not melt the plastic, so the whole surface can be glued.