Hello all!
After months of reading these forums and brewing nostalgia, I've decided to return to modelling for the first time since childhood with a Merkava IV LIC. I purchased the Legend Productions ball-and-chain basket kit, thinking it would add some depth to otherwise two-dimensional, stiff ball-and-chain pieces that came with the Academy kit (which is exceptional).
My question is...how?? How do you get the ball on the chain? I'm a young guy, and I can barely even SEE what I'm doing much less hang on to the pieces, even with tweezers! I'm determined to make it work, because I paid for it, and the basket itself looks great.
I've also added a couple pictures of the build. Things are going together very nicely thus far.
**Note...I was completely defeated by the picture gallery feature in this forum, so I had to add some direct links**
The build, so far.
Top view
Got that finicky exhaust grill on!
Yet-to-be-sanded filler putty between basket and turret
The ball and chain of woe...
Any help or ideas with the ball and chain would be greatly appreciated. I've considered using sparing amounts of superglue, but I feel like that won't look as nice.
Thanks!
Constructive Feedback
For in-progress or completed build photos. Give and get contructive feedback!
For in-progress or completed build photos. Give and get contructive feedback!
Hosted by Darren Baker, Dave O'Meara
Merkava iV LIC (ball and chain bewilderment)
DavetheSwede
Alabama, United States
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Posted: Friday, January 30, 2015 - 03:18 PM UTC
Motives
Stockholm, Sweden
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Posted: Friday, January 30, 2015 - 08:47 PM UTC
Thats one way of doing it
DavetheSwede
Alabama, United States
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Posted: Saturday, January 31, 2015 - 01:23 AM UTC
Johan,
Does this involving using some other brass wire material to get that final loop in place, or is this actually the wire included with the kit?
Does this involving using some other brass wire material to get that final loop in place, or is this actually the wire included with the kit?
Posted: Saturday, January 31, 2015 - 01:42 AM UTC
Dave I have edited your post to make your pictures display,
DavetheSwede
Alabama, United States
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Posted: Saturday, January 31, 2015 - 01:55 AM UTC
Thanks Darren!
I feel dumb, but how exactly do I do that?
I feel dumb, but how exactly do I do that?
Malvin
Severocesky Kraj, Czech Republic
Joined: October 18, 2013
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Posted: Saturday, January 31, 2015 - 02:13 AM UTC
Hi , very good chain for Merkava
http://www.fast-webstore.com/www-vt-models-cz/eshop/8-1-Diorama-accessories/1-2-1-35/5/624-Chain-for-modellers-0-5m-retizek-pro-modelare-0-5-m
Malvin
http://www.fast-webstore.com/www-vt-models-cz/eshop/8-1-Diorama-accessories/1-2-1-35/5/624-Chain-for-modellers-0-5m-retizek-pro-modelare-0-5-m
Malvin
Posted: Saturday, January 31, 2015 - 04:03 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Thanks Darren!
I feel dumb, but how exactly do I do that?
Place your image location between the following HTML commands [1mg] [/1mg] change the number one for an 'i'.
Armored76
Bayern, Germany
Joined: September 30, 2013
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Posted: Saturday, January 31, 2015 - 11:58 AM UTC
Hey Dave,
There are some instructions on Norman Lim's build here: http://www.missing-lynx.com/gallery/modern/mervavaivnl_1.html. Personally, I would try the same method but glue the balls directly to the closed chain links instead of a piece of wire. It will be a lot less hassle and the difference is hard to notice. Although, Norma's method will certainly deliver the better result.
I have also heard people talking about the fact that the supplied chain is not long enough to build a full row of armor balls so they will randomly leave some off simulating battle damage. If I'm not completely wrong, the talk was about 30cm of chain being too short while other reviews talk about 50cm being supplied so Legend might have changed this in the mean time.
Hope this helps! Good luck!
Cristian
There are some instructions on Norman Lim's build here: http://www.missing-lynx.com/gallery/modern/mervavaivnl_1.html. Personally, I would try the same method but glue the balls directly to the closed chain links instead of a piece of wire. It will be a lot less hassle and the difference is hard to notice. Although, Norma's method will certainly deliver the better result.
I have also heard people talking about the fact that the supplied chain is not long enough to build a full row of armor balls so they will randomly leave some off simulating battle damage. If I'm not completely wrong, the talk was about 30cm of chain being too short while other reviews talk about 50cm being supplied so Legend might have changed this in the mean time.
Hope this helps! Good luck!
Cristian
Motives
Stockholm, Sweden
Joined: October 15, 2013
KitMaker: 444 posts
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Joined: October 15, 2013
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Posted: Saturday, January 31, 2015 - 12:23 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Johan,
Does this involving using some other brass wire material to get that final loop in place, or is this actually the wire included with the kit?
Not sure what's included in the legend set and either will probably work. My point was that it might get easier for you to first attach the last loop to the ball and then attach the rest of the chain to the loop
Removed by original poster on 02/01/15 - 07:51:36 (GMT).
Removed by original poster on 02/01/15 - 07:53:38 (GMT).
bison126
Correze, France
Joined: June 10, 2004
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Posted: Saturday, January 31, 2015 - 02:47 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Not sure what's included in the legend set and either will probably work. My point was that it might get easier for you to first attach the last loop to the ball and then attach the rest of the chain to the loop
I fully agree with Johan, it's easier to fix the ball to the loop first. In reality, the loop is larger than the rest of the chain links. But in 1/35, I think you do not need to bother with this.
For your information, in the ET model set, the loop/hook was a separate PE part. So it was quite easy to deal with it.
Good luck for the assembly.
Olivier
DavetheSwede
Alabama, United States
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Posted: Saturday, January 31, 2015 - 03:12 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Hey Dave,
There are some instructions on Norman Lim's build here: http://www.missing-lynx.com/gallery/modern/mervavaivnl_1.html. Personally, I would try the same method but glue the balls directly to the closed chain links instead of a piece of wire. It will be a lot less hassle and the difference is hard to notice. Although, Norma's method will certainly deliver the better result.
Christian -
I think I may end up using super glue, as my ability and understanding of the material is just not up to somehow inserting a loop, or the ends of a loop, into an opening that is scarcely half a millimeter! I will take another look at it, though. I have to build some dexterity in my hands that I've never needed before. I've welded on real airplanes, machined parts, and worked on computers, but these super tiny parts require a level of finesse that certainly has to be gained over time, I'm discovering.
Thanks for the advice!
DavetheSwede
Alabama, United States
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Posted: Saturday, January 31, 2015 - 03:16 PM UTC
[quote]
Olivier-
My biggest problem with that is that I have to figure how, exactly, to get the loop into the ball. The hole in the ball is so incredibly tiny, I don't understand how you get both "ends" of the loop to go inside. It seems almost impossible to me, even after seeing the pictures on the Legend kit, which clearly show the loop neatly inserted into the ball, or at least it seems that way.
Quoted Text
I fully agree with Johan, it's easier to fix the ball to the loop first. In reality, the loop is larger than the rest of the chain links. But in 1/35, I think you do not need to bother with this.
For your information, in the ET model set, the loop/hook was a separate PE part. So it was quite easy to deal with it.
Good luck for the assembly.
Olivier
Olivier-
My biggest problem with that is that I have to figure how, exactly, to get the loop into the ball. The hole in the ball is so incredibly tiny, I don't understand how you get both "ends" of the loop to go inside. It seems almost impossible to me, even after seeing the pictures on the Legend kit, which clearly show the loop neatly inserted into the ball, or at least it seems that way.
DavetheSwede
Alabama, United States
Joined: January 31, 2015
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Posted: Saturday, January 31, 2015 - 03:34 PM UTC
To those of you who commented and offered advice regarding my "ball and chain" issues; thank you!
I've decided to set aside and ponder that issue for the time being, leaving it as the final "pre painting" major assembly step so I have time to figure out how I'm going to approach it.
In the mean time, I've started on the remote .50 cal and the 7.62 secondary machine gun. Looking good so far, and I'm pleased with the results, given how tiny the parts were.
I discovered a bit of an issue with the hull body. It appears that there's some misalignment between the two sides. If I recall properly from my youth, boiling the affected part and putting it in a fixture of sorts would often straighten it out. Hopefully, I can dip the rear area and slip something that's the right width between the misaligned pieces and let it cure that way. Anyone have any thoughts on this? The parts are pretty stiff, given that I didn't notice it until I glued the extra stiffener along the entire bottom side
Turns out that something so random as a cat can create issues. A cat for which my wife and I are babysitting decided that my barrel was a perfect plaything, and it disappeared with it for half a day until I saw her playing with it in the morning. Of course, she had to incur some damage, and now I have to figure out how to fill in/resculpt that rim, or it's going to show prominently when I finally paint it.
I've decided to set aside and ponder that issue for the time being, leaving it as the final "pre painting" major assembly step so I have time to figure out how I'm going to approach it.
In the mean time, I've started on the remote .50 cal and the 7.62 secondary machine gun. Looking good so far, and I'm pleased with the results, given how tiny the parts were.
I discovered a bit of an issue with the hull body. It appears that there's some misalignment between the two sides. If I recall properly from my youth, boiling the affected part and putting it in a fixture of sorts would often straighten it out. Hopefully, I can dip the rear area and slip something that's the right width between the misaligned pieces and let it cure that way. Anyone have any thoughts on this? The parts are pretty stiff, given that I didn't notice it until I glued the extra stiffener along the entire bottom side
Turns out that something so random as a cat can create issues. A cat for which my wife and I are babysitting decided that my barrel was a perfect plaything, and it disappeared with it for half a day until I saw her playing with it in the morning. Of course, she had to incur some damage, and now I have to figure out how to fill in/resculpt that rim, or it's going to show prominently when I finally paint it.
bison126
Correze, France
Joined: June 10, 2004
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Posted: Saturday, January 31, 2015 - 07:06 PM UTC
Quoted Text
My biggest problem with that is that I have to figure how, exactly, to get the loop into the ball. The hole in the ball is so incredibly tiny, I don't understand how you get both "ends" of the loop to go inside. It seems almost impossible to me, even after seeing the pictures on the Legend kit, which clearly show the loop neatly inserted into the ball, or at least it seems that way.
For real, there is only one end of the hook which "enters" the ball. This should solve your problem. Resume assembling the balls and chains when you are ready. If you don't have a positive feeling about it, forget it for a while
18Bravo
Colorado, United States
Joined: January 20, 2005
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Posted: Saturday, January 31, 2015 - 10:18 PM UTC
Set the balls in a piece of clay before attempting to insert wire. And get an Opti-Visor.
edmund
United States
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Posted: Sunday, February 01, 2015 - 03:41 AM UTC
Are the balls brass or copper ? Could you solder the chains directly to the balls ?