Armor/AFV
For discussions on tanks, artillery, jeeps, etc.
For discussions on tanks, artillery, jeeps, etc.
Hosted by Darren Baker, Mario Matijasic
Miniart U.S.Army Bulldozer
jet
Joined: December 30, 2002
KitMaker: 306 posts
Armorama: 295 posts
Posted: Friday, September 04, 2015 - 09:39 PM UTC
Yes very nice pics thanks.
jet
Joined: December 30, 2002
KitMaker: 306 posts
Armorama: 295 posts
Posted: Monday, September 07, 2015 - 08:04 AM UTC
So in Step 9
exhaust parts and others which I do not know what they are.
exhaust parts and others which I do not know what they are.
jet
Joined: December 30, 2002
KitMaker: 306 posts
Armorama: 295 posts
Posted: Monday, September 07, 2015 - 08:37 AM UTC
Some scans from a book I have called The Pictorial History of Canada's Army Overseas !939-1945. (pub.1947)
DocEvan
Joined: August 09, 2014
KitMaker: 180 posts
Armorama: 180 posts
Posted: Monday, September 07, 2015 - 10:30 AM UTC
it screams over-engineered".
Having built the MiniArt Gaz AAA, I find that there is such a things as too high a parts content.
Just my two cents.
Having built the MiniArt Gaz AAA, I find that there is such a things as too high a parts content.
Just my two cents.
Quoted Text
Not sure are you saying that's a bad thing?
According to their website its actually: Total 609 parts.
jet
Joined: December 30, 2002
KitMaker: 306 posts
Armorama: 295 posts
Posted: Tuesday, September 08, 2015 - 06:02 AM UTC
Quoted Text
it screams over-engineered
I guess some people's hearing is more sensitive than others.
Like many aspects in this hobby everyone has their own preferences.
One school would allow man no flavor
for his fare and the other would have us all on a
straight pepper diet. We want to stay out of this controversy. I do not want to be the arbiter of anyone’s
preference.
Personally I like it when the parts in a kit as closely as possible, approximate the part breakdown of the real thing, I just like to see how things go together. While I understand a more simplified,unified parts breakdown is easier to put together, the amount of detail most assuredly drops expotentaly. I like all the detail I can get.
165thspc
#521
Joined: April 13, 2011
KitMaker: 9,465 posts
Armorama: 8,695 posts
Posted: Tuesday, September 08, 2015 - 06:06 AM UTC
You said it well man. I may put your quote up on my shop wall!
jet
Joined: December 30, 2002
KitMaker: 306 posts
Armorama: 295 posts
Posted: Tuesday, September 08, 2015 - 07:18 AM UTC
So moving onto Step 10
Wish I knew the names of these parts
Wish I knew the names of these parts
DocEvan
Joined: August 09, 2014
KitMaker: 180 posts
Armorama: 180 posts
Posted: Tuesday, September 08, 2015 - 07:38 AM UTC
It's just a model kit, not a family member.
Quoted Text
Quoted Textit screams over-engineered
I guess some people's hearing is more sensitive than others.
Like many aspects in this hobby everyone has their own preferences.
One school would allow man no flavor
for his fare and the other would have us all on a
straight pepper diet. We want to stay out of this controversy. I do not want to be the arbiter of anyone’s
preference.
Personally I like it when the parts in a kit as closely as possible, approximate the part breakdown of the real thing, I just like to see how things go together. While I understand a more simplified,unified parts breakdown is easier to put together, the amount of detail most assuredly drops expotentaly. I like all the detail I can get.
jet
Joined: December 30, 2002
KitMaker: 306 posts
Armorama: 295 posts
Posted: Tuesday, September 08, 2015 - 08:08 AM UTC
Step 11
a couple of parts from Step 12 snuck in.
a couple of parts from Step 12 snuck in.
jet
Joined: December 30, 2002
KitMaker: 306 posts
Armorama: 295 posts
Posted: Wednesday, September 09, 2015 - 09:01 AM UTC
Step 12
...shows the combining of sub-assemblies from Steps 9,10 and 11.
...shows the combining of sub-assemblies from Steps 9,10 and 11.
M4A1Sherman
Joined: May 02, 2013
KitMaker: 4,403 posts
Armorama: 4,078 posts
Posted: Wednesday, September 09, 2015 - 01:58 PM UTC
Quoted Text
It's just a model kit, not a family member.Quoted TextQuoted Textit screams over-engineered
I guess some people's hearing is more sensitive than others.
Like many aspects in this hobby everyone has their own preferences.
One school would allow man no flavor
for his fare and the other would have us all on a
straight pepper diet. We want to stay out of this controversy. I do not want to be the arbiter of anyone’s
preference.
Personally I like it when the parts in a kit as closely as possible, approximate the part breakdown of the real thing, I just like to see how things go together. While I understand a more simplified,unified parts breakdown is easier to put together, the amount of detail most assuredly drops expotentaly. I like all the detail I can get.
HEAR, HEAR! It's been my experience that the simpler a kit is engineered (low parts count), the more detail I have to add, making the "simple kit" a LOT more complicated in the long run. This means that the total price AND extra labor that I need to apply in order to complete the kit in question RISES exponentially, in order to meet my own personal standards. The addition of multi-media update kits, photo etch upgrades, scratch-building/kit-bashing, extra research, reference material, hair pulling and gnashing of teeth ad nauseam FAR EXCEEDS the cost of an "over-engineered" kit.
My credo is: "THE MORE DETAIL, THE BETTER"... IMO, I can't see how ANY kit can EVER be "over-engineered"... Conversely, the ever rarer downside to the above statement is that once in a great while, it happens that a really complicated and expensive kit is poorly engineered and executed with fit problems and inaccuracies; then, the modelling experience of the kit in question becomes an exercise in frustration and disappointment. But even this can be turned into a positive, if one has the patience and ingenuity to persevere...
I've managed to turn many of a dog-kit into something that I can be proud of, and all the extra work, expense and frustration are worth it in the end...
165thspc
#521
Joined: April 13, 2011
KitMaker: 9,465 posts
Armorama: 8,695 posts
Posted: Wednesday, September 09, 2015 - 06:01 PM UTC
I really like Jet's remark about wanting the model parts count to equal the parts count of the real thing. While somewhat extreme I have thought the same thing myself.
jet
Joined: December 30, 2002
KitMaker: 306 posts
Armorama: 295 posts
Posted: Friday, September 11, 2015 - 11:03 PM UTC
Step 13 takes care of the front motor mount and fan and fan-belt.
jet
Joined: December 30, 2002
KitMaker: 306 posts
Armorama: 295 posts
Posted: Friday, September 11, 2015 - 11:09 PM UTC
Ok Step 14 and Step 15 are small steps so I've combined them all into this update.
These are glued into place, with a few other items in Step 16.
These are glued into place, with a few other items in Step 16.
MrRoo
Joined: October 07, 2002
KitMaker: 3,856 posts
Armorama: 2,984 posts
Posted: Saturday, September 12, 2015 - 02:42 AM UTC
Beautiful clean work especially with so many small parts as well.
I have a question about what the red is on the back of the engine block in some of the last photos? Also & not a criticism, but I can still see the seam in the bottom of the gearbox casing.
I have a question about what the red is on the back of the engine block in some of the last photos? Also & not a criticism, but I can still see the seam in the bottom of the gearbox casing.
jet
Joined: December 30, 2002
KitMaker: 306 posts
Armorama: 295 posts
Posted: Saturday, September 12, 2015 - 03:06 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Beautiful clean work especially with so many small parts as well.
I have a question about what the red is on the back of the engine block in some of the last photos? Also & not a criticism, but I can still see the seam in the bottom of the gearbox casing.
No worries, this is all preliminary gluing stuff together and as I get nearer to priming I'll be taking a closer look at any seams or mold lines. Also after priming. Taking photos adds to the less than perfect finish at this point, building for publication and sharing is different than doing it only for yourself. It is a bit more hurried.
The red is some body glazing putty which I've added to a seam, which in subsequent photos you'll see sanded down.
jet
Joined: December 30, 2002
KitMaker: 306 posts
Armorama: 295 posts
Posted: Sunday, September 13, 2015 - 08:42 AM UTC
I actually misspoke- the radiator and sub-assembly 14 get attached in Step 17.
sanded down the putty. A few pieces are left off here. (C17 and PEa2)
Also I managed to drop the thing and the Part 14 sub-assembly came off. No damage. Here is what it looks like separate.
sanded down the putty. A few pieces are left off here. (C17 and PEa2)
Also I managed to drop the thing and the Part 14 sub-assembly came off. No damage. Here is what it looks like separate.
WXerock
#450
Joined: July 19, 2015
KitMaker: 672 posts
Armorama: 668 posts
Posted: Sunday, September 13, 2015 - 09:18 AM UTC
This is one of the best build logs I've read here. The way you label the upcoming parts in the photos is very helpful. Your work is top notch. I tend to build in a haphazard manner making it hard to take in-process photos. I guess I had better up my game and start a log of my own. Thank you for your time on these amazing photos. 
jet
Joined: December 30, 2002
KitMaker: 306 posts
Armorama: 295 posts
Posted: Monday, September 14, 2015 - 09:15 AM UTC
Thanks for the words of encouragement!
Step 18 has the very fragile B8 and B9 coolant lines. On my last Miniart D7 these basically disintegrated. I can say with absolute assurance that this is different plastic. While with any part from any manufacturer that is this delicate great care needs to be taking cutting from a sprue tree. I used a heated scalpel to do a rough cut from the tree, and then followed up with some tighter trimming once they are off with a sprue cutter. This was also followed up with a sharp hobby knife. I was very pleased to have these successfully attached.
(the white box encloses the PEa2 part from step 17)
Step 18 has the very fragile B8 and B9 coolant lines. On my last Miniart D7 these basically disintegrated. I can say with absolute assurance that this is different plastic. While with any part from any manufacturer that is this delicate great care needs to be taking cutting from a sprue tree. I used a heated scalpel to do a rough cut from the tree, and then followed up with some tighter trimming once they are off with a sprue cutter. This was also followed up with a sharp hobby knife. I was very pleased to have these successfully attached.
(the white box encloses the PEa2 part from step 17)
jet
Joined: December 30, 2002
KitMaker: 306 posts
Armorama: 295 posts
Posted: Tuesday, September 15, 2015 - 08:29 AM UTC
Step 19
finally moving forward. The steering clutch housing is the focus here.
finally moving forward. The steering clutch housing is the focus here.
jet
Joined: December 30, 2002
KitMaker: 306 posts
Armorama: 295 posts
Posted: Tuesday, September 15, 2015 - 09:04 AM UTC
Step 20
Now we attach the assembly from Step 19 to the chassis parts A37 and A38. There are a couple of spots that need to be opened up before this however.
Now we attach the assembly from Step 19 to the chassis parts A37 and A38. There are a couple of spots that need to be opened up before this however.
jet
Joined: December 30, 2002
KitMaker: 306 posts
Armorama: 295 posts
Posted: Wednesday, September 16, 2015 - 08:43 AM UTC
OK here we are at step 21 this will be a useful step as until now the handling of the motor has been somewhat dodgy and dangerous but now it will be securely mounted to the chassis that we built in step 20 so once that's in place I can start taking a look at maybe doing some of the wiring and tubing that is not included in the kit. You may notice in the last three photographs that I've sprayed out the model with Mr. surfacer 1000 and once I get the injection lines and other piping in I will prime and paint where I'm at as access will be somewhat limited in the future steps.
Noticed in the previous photos some of the seams had not been cleaned up but before spraying with some rattle can Mr Surfacer 1000 I tried to clean up all the seams and glue joins.
Noticed in the previous photos some of the seams had not been cleaned up but before spraying with some rattle can Mr Surfacer 1000 I tried to clean up all the seams and glue joins.
165thspc
#521
Joined: April 13, 2011
KitMaker: 9,465 posts
Armorama: 8,695 posts
Posted: Thursday, September 17, 2015 - 08:36 AM UTC
I really like the uniform texture created by the Mr. Surfacer. I have been using Tamiya gray primer but now I think I will switch, looks great!
jet
Joined: December 30, 2002
KitMaker: 306 posts
Armorama: 295 posts
Posted: Sunday, September 27, 2015 - 02:51 AM UTC
Step 22
This deals with the back wall of the engine cowling and the air cleaner.
I needed to hold off with this until I had painted the engine.
The air cleaner was left off till I add the fuel injection lines.
This deals with the back wall of the engine cowling and the air cleaner.
I needed to hold off with this until I had painted the engine.
The air cleaner was left off till I add the fuel injection lines.
jet
Joined: December 30, 2002
KitMaker: 306 posts
Armorama: 295 posts
Posted: Thursday, October 01, 2015 - 07:39 AM UTC
Step 22 asks that four pre-marked holes be drilled out on part B23.
Moving into Step 23 one works with parts to create foot pedal controls
Step 23 in place on the previous work. I will be painting the inside of part B23 and the rest of the build before completing Step 22.
Step 24 is actually where the foot controls are added , I did them a little early.
But there is a few other items added in step 24 that I now glue in place.
actually added parts from Step 25 here as well
Back in Step 20 I should have added two bolts, (Da7) to the back of the gear box, but forgot. I decide to add better bolts from an old Calibre 35 resin set.
Moving into Step 23 one works with parts to create foot pedal controls
Step 23 in place on the previous work. I will be painting the inside of part B23 and the rest of the build before completing Step 22.
Step 24 is actually where the foot controls are added , I did them a little early.
But there is a few other items added in step 24 that I now glue in place.
actually added parts from Step 25 here as well
Back in Step 20 I should have added two bolts, (Da7) to the back of the gear box, but forgot. I decide to add better bolts from an old Calibre 35 resin set.
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