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M4 Sherman painting & weathering
ironwork
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Viana do Castelo, Portugal
Joined: January 12, 2012
KitMaker: 216 posts
Armorama: 194 posts
Posted: Tuesday, December 29, 2015 - 06:49 PM UTC
Hi all Sirs,
it seems that after a lot of random and incomplete pieces made for videos, i'll have time to (finally ! ) finish off a model.

Subject for this topic is the tamiya m4. I'll not post anything about building, since tamiya kits are straighforward building and well known.



The only addition is a forex plate to close the lower hull gap.
And now we go directly to the decorative and weathering procedure.
ironwork
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Viana do Castelo, Portugal
Joined: January 12, 2012
KitMaker: 216 posts
Armorama: 194 posts
Posted: Tuesday, December 29, 2015 - 06:54 PM UTC
For a more prominent casting apparel, I used ROUGH CASTING & ANTISKID.

It was simply painted on unthinned on transmission housing, and a bit thinned with water for a more uneven effect on turret.



This low lighted picture shows better the whole thing


ironwork
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Viana do Castelo, Portugal
Joined: January 12, 2012
KitMaker: 216 posts
Armorama: 194 posts
Posted: Tuesday, December 29, 2015 - 06:56 PM UTC
As dry, it was lightly sanded on transmission housing to achieve a slightly different texture

ironwork
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Viana do Castelo, Portugal
Joined: January 12, 2012
KitMaker: 216 posts
Armorama: 194 posts
Posted: Tuesday, December 29, 2015 - 07:01 PM UTC
The whole was then lighly primed with MULTIMEDIA PRIMER, and airbrushed with OD from the SDW range.
Nothing more is needed than putting the well shaken paint into the cup and start airbrushing at ab. 14,5 psi.



A bit of white was added to the last drop of OD, and airbrushed on prominent and higher spots to start featuring some shape.



dhines
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Nova Scotia, Canada
Joined: November 17, 2015
KitMaker: 407 posts
Armorama: 373 posts
Posted: Tuesday, December 29, 2015 - 07:36 PM UTC
Looking great so far. I love the texture you have made on the kit so far. It will look great as you go along. What product are you using for the texture???? Best regards......Dale
Armorsmith
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Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: April 09, 2015
KitMaker: 1,063 posts
Armorama: 1,000 posts
Posted: Tuesday, December 29, 2015 - 07:59 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Hi all Sirs,
it seems that after a lot of random and incomplete pieces made for videos, i'll have time to (finally ! ) finish off a model.

Subject for this topic is the tamiya m4. I'll not post anything about building, since tamiya kits are straighforward building and well known.

The only addition is a forex plate to close the lower hull gap.
And now we go directly to the decorative and weathering procedure.


In my opinion, even though dated and these Tamiya kits can still be built up nicely and made to look good with careful painting and weathering. what you have done so far I think reinforces my point.
Shermania
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California, United States
Joined: January 30, 2013
KitMaker: 537 posts
Armorama: 531 posts
Posted: Tuesday, December 29, 2015 - 11:16 PM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

Hi all Sirs,
it seems that after a lot of random and incomplete pieces made for videos, i'll have time to (finally ! ) finish off a model.

Subject for this topic is the tamiya m4. I'll not post anything about building, since tamiya kits are straighforward building and well known.

The only addition is a forex plate to close the lower hull gap.
And now we go directly to the decorative and weathering procedure.


In my opinion, even though dated and these Tamiya kits can still be built up nicely and made to look good with careful painting and weathering. what you have done so far I think reinforces my point.


A lot of people still buy and build these kits, wrong underside, hollow wheels, and missing sponson fillers aside. But the biggest issue was and still is the front glacis. Tamiya used the glacis set up from an M4A4. For a long time this M4 was the only game in town. We now have some excellent choices for straight M4s DML makes three really nice ones, the M4 DV, the Normandy M4, and the late M4 (47 degree glacis)kit. Also, I haven't seen one yet but hope to get my hands on the new Asuka M4 soon.

Filling up the sponsons, adding raised weld beads, using spare DML wheels and idlers and adding sandbags in the front is one way to upgrade this kit to the point where it still looks really nice. If you aren't over concerned about the accuracy it still looks like a nice representation of the M4
ironwork
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Viana do Castelo, Portugal
Joined: January 12, 2012
KitMaker: 216 posts
Armorama: 194 posts
Posted: Wednesday, December 30, 2015 - 07:26 PM UTC
Thank you all

@Dale : search here www.true-earth.com
@Dvsand, Pedro : i find these kits quite... relaxing. Old, inaccurate, but finally, in my cabinet, it will be a sherman

Next step in the process is to add some staining and streaking, both for softly wearing and "enriching" the color.
I feel easier, (or simply much more enjoying), when neat streaking is the target, to do it by brush.

For this task too i relied on the SDW Shading Colors. Tan and Khaki for the lighter side, plus subtle touches of SeaBlue into the deeper spots.


ironwork
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Viana do Castelo, Portugal
Joined: January 12, 2012
KitMaker: 216 posts
Armorama: 194 posts
Posted: Wednesday, December 30, 2015 - 07:54 PM UTC
These waterbased paints can be shaded and blended toghether like oil paints, and this is one of the possible ways to work with

At fist, the surface is lightly dampened with water, this will help a more subtle blending



Then a bit of color (khaki here) is stained here and there, and gently blended over the sides in a vertical manner with soft and only slightly damp brushes







Further difference is a faster drying time compared with oils.
Shermania
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California, United States
Joined: January 30, 2013
KitMaker: 537 posts
Armorama: 531 posts
Posted: Wednesday, December 30, 2015 - 10:01 PM UTC
I agree with you Giuseppe, whatever your preference is, if you love accuracy and super detailing or if you just want to get to the painting.

the important thing to remember is that you should have fun, otherwise what's the point?

No one is wrong, different people enjoy different things. The problem is when someone feels their thing is better than someone else's, lol.

I like your approach and congratulations on your great attitude, this should be relaxing and fun escape from real life.

keep up the great work, it looks very nice
ironwork
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Viana do Castelo, Portugal
Joined: January 12, 2012
KitMaker: 216 posts
Armorama: 194 posts
Posted: Monday, January 04, 2016 - 03:01 PM UTC

Quoted Text

I
the important thing to remember is that you should have fun, otherwise what's the point?


..that is , Pedro

Going on into the paint alteration process, here another way to use SDW colors :
Just let them get thicker for a couple hours, then paint on a line or a dot, and shade it stippling and brushing with a soft brush.
Exactly what you could do with an oil paint, but with the same "somewhat special..." waterbased paint used for actually painting the kit.









ironwork
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Viana do Castelo, Portugal
Joined: January 12, 2012
KitMaker: 216 posts
Armorama: 194 posts
Posted: Monday, January 04, 2016 - 03:04 PM UTC
The whole could be obviously done with an airbrush. But fun apart, the brushed streaks and dots are more defined and somewhat rougher. Which is much better for a crawling cluster of steel...






M4A1Sherman
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New York, United States
Joined: May 02, 2013
KitMaker: 4,403 posts
Armorama: 4,078 posts
Posted: Monday, January 04, 2016 - 04:26 PM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

Hi all Sirs,
it seems that after a lot of random and incomplete pieces made for videos, i'll have time to (finally ! ) finish off a model.

Subject for this topic is the tamiya m4. I'll not post anything about building, since tamiya kits are straighforward building and well known.

The only addition is a forex plate to close the lower hull gap.
And now we go directly to the decorative and weathering procedure.


In my opinion, even though dated and these Tamiya kits can still be built up nicely and made to look good with careful painting and weathering. what you have done so far I think reinforces my point.


I heartily concur! Waste not, want not, and that goes double for DRAGON's supposedly "inferior-to-ASUKA/TASCA" M4-M4A3E8-series kits. I like to correct where correction is needed, and I also like to make use of resin upgrades, PE sets, various painting techniques, and of course, figures and stowage.

LOOKING GOOD!!!
spstreeter
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Massachusetts, United States
Joined: August 09, 2015
KitMaker: 37 posts
Armorama: 32 posts
Posted: Monday, January 04, 2016 - 05:30 PM UTC
I think it looks fantastic. Thanks for taking the time to post all of the details. Enjoy and have fun!
Thirian24
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Oklahoma, United States
Joined: September 30, 2015
KitMaker: 2,493 posts
Armorama: 2,344 posts
Posted: Monday, January 04, 2016 - 06:44 PM UTC
Very nice weathering.
catdude01
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Puerto Rico
Joined: December 05, 2013
KitMaker: 314 posts
Armorama: 253 posts
Posted: Monday, January 04, 2016 - 06:58 PM UTC
Fantastic work !!!
27-1025
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North Carolina, United States
Joined: September 16, 2004
KitMaker: 1,281 posts
Armorama: 1,222 posts
Posted: Monday, January 04, 2016 - 07:35 PM UTC
Looks great! I really like the rain mark effects you are able to achieve.
KuKLiNsKi
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Croatia Hrvatska
Joined: April 18, 2010
KitMaker: 106 posts
Armorama: 103 posts
Posted: Monday, January 04, 2016 - 10:40 PM UTC
what do this yellowish highlights represent?
M4A1Sherman
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New York, United States
Joined: May 02, 2013
KitMaker: 4,403 posts
Armorama: 4,078 posts
Posted: Thursday, January 07, 2016 - 06:13 AM UTC

Quoted Text

what do this yellowish highlights represent?


Exactly that- Highlights, which bring out raised details. The object is to "fool the eye", which is English for the French expression, "trompe de oeil"... I do most of this kind of work with my airbrushes, followed by creating "shadows and highlights" with my Artist's Pastel Chalk Powders (Weathering Powders are the same thing with a different name). I then seal with a sprayed Flat Coat. Once this is dry, (I like to give it 48 hours drying time), then I VERY SPARINGLY "dry-brush" my highlights, and then I seal with another Flat Coat. This is just an abbreviated description of my personal "final finishing" process- I deliberately left out all the preparation and processes that comes beforehand for fear of being too tedious...
ironwork
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Viana do Castelo, Portugal
Joined: January 12, 2012
KitMaker: 216 posts
Armorama: 194 posts
Posted: Monday, January 11, 2016 - 03:02 PM UTC

Quoted Text

what do this yellowish highlights represent?


Hi Richard,
on a monochromatic item like this one, I like to alter, add lights and shadows with both warm and cold colors. This process gets a more interesting and deep finish.

And again I like to increase this depht effect with appropriate filters.



Here with a very warm MILD RUST Transparent Filter, and a cold DEEP BLUE one




Here how it's done.
Spread first a layer of pure(unthinned) filter on a portion of the model, in a vertical motion





Then remove excess, absorbing it with the brush, again with a vertical motion. (The excess absorbed into the brush is then spread on another portion)




When we compare glazed areas with unglazed ones, the effect may seem to be excessive, but it's just a trick of our eyes. The whole will look better when the whole model is filtered.



Now some cold shadows are added with DEEP BLUE filter, on lower sides of turret and plates.





ironwork
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Viana do Castelo, Portugal
Joined: January 12, 2012
KitMaker: 216 posts
Armorama: 194 posts
Posted: Monday, January 11, 2016 - 03:03 PM UTC
The resulting finish avails all shapes to stand out, and is the sum of paints and filters in warm and cold tones.







KuKLiNsKi
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Croatia Hrvatska
Joined: April 18, 2010
KitMaker: 106 posts
Armorama: 103 posts
Posted: Tuesday, January 12, 2016 - 02:52 PM UTC
i see... it looks like yellow zinc chromate primer on weathered Corsairs and Hellcats
i've never seen that kind of color shades on real tank.
M4A1Sherman
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New York, United States
Joined: May 02, 2013
KitMaker: 4,403 posts
Armorama: 4,078 posts
Posted: Tuesday, January 12, 2016 - 03:07 PM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text


Quoted Text

Hi all Sirs,
it seems that after a lot of random and incomplete pieces made for videos, i'll have time to (finally ! ) finish off a model.

Subject for this topic is the tamiya m4. I'll not post anything about building, since tamiya kits are straighforward building and well known.

The only addition is a forex plate to close the lower hull gap.
And now we go directly to the decorative and weathering procedure.


In my opinion, even though dated and these Tamiya kits can still be built up nicely and made to look good with careful painting and weathering. what you have done so far I think reinforces my point.


A lot of people still buy and build these kits, wrong underside, hollow wheels, and missing sponson fillers aside. But the biggest issue was and still is the front glacis. Tamiya used the glacis set up from an M4A4. For a long time this M4 was the only game in town. We now have some excellent choices for straight M4s DML makes three really nice ones, the M4 DV, the Normandy M4, and the late M4 (47 degree glacis)kit. Also, I haven't seen one yet but hope to get my hands on the new Asuka M4 soon.

Filling up the sponsons, adding raised weld beads, using spare DML wheels and idlers and adding sandbags in the front is one way to upgrade this kit to the point where it still looks really nice. If you aren't over concerned about the accuracy it still looks like a nice representation of the M4


HI! AGREE WITH ALL ABOVE! For the usual going price of the TAMIYA M4 kits, the addition of aftermarket parts such as "corrected" resin Road-wheels, Sprockets, Idlers, and whatever other aftermarket parts, PE, and Updates you want to spend extra money on, will "even out" the overall amount of (retail) money spent on an ASUKA M4 WITHOUT extras. I've built several of the ANCIENT TAMIYA M4s, (with "extras", of course) and they rival ANY DRAGON, or even TASCA/ASUKA M4 kit...

Re: The ASUKA M4 "Fay"- Try on ebay or at LUCKY MODELS; quite a few can be found elsewhere, besides... Good Luck!

Re: The DRAGON (DML) M4 DV, "Normandy" M4, and the M4A3 ETO (47-degree glacis) and their M4A1 DV, also- ALL FOUR are excellent kits AND buys, since prices of older DRAGON kits have seen a downward pricing trend. IMO, the DRAGON M4/M4A1/M4A3 kits are very comparable to ASUKA's M4 kits, although there will be other modellers who will dispute my opinions on that subject. It's ALL been discussed before.

Depending on your source of model kits, the DRAGON kits are easily found on various websites, generally for quite a bit less money than the TASCA/ASUKA kits...
ironwork
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Viana do Castelo, Portugal
Joined: January 12, 2012
KitMaker: 216 posts
Armorama: 194 posts
Posted: Wednesday, January 13, 2016 - 10:25 PM UTC

Quoted Text

i see... it looks like yellow zinc chromate primer on weathered Corsairs and Hellcats
i've never seen that kind of color shades on real tank.


We will evaluate it when finished
bwavants
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Missouri, United States
Joined: December 04, 2014
KitMaker: 11 posts
Armorama: 11 posts
Posted: Friday, January 15, 2016 - 11:14 PM UTC
Hi Giuseppe, The final photos look really nice. The True Earth paint effects look very nice and smooth, especially in the transitions. I have been thinking about trying several of the True Earth paints for a while. I may just have to place an order!
 _GOTOTOP