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Armor/AFV: Softskins
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[W] M983 Tractor/M901 Patriot - Trumpy 1:35.
Gelerth
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Wojewodztwo Mazowieckie, Poland
Joined: October 29, 2010
KitMaker: 169 posts
Armorama: 136 posts
Posted: Thursday, January 14, 2016 - 08:40 PM UTC
Few days ago I finished the Smerch in winter camo and lucky on the next day I get the package with M983 and as I was hoping with M901. Unfortunately by mistake I get the Trumpy Smerch instead of M901 Launcing Station. I send the model a back but in the meantime I'm building the M983 tractor.
I started from the checkout of two biggest and separetely provided parts. It's a cab floor and cab top. Altrough those parts are nicely molded they have a big pin marks holes and nasty sprue remains:




I managed to file some of them, hoping that rest won't be visible:


Then I moved to the frame. It is 25cm long (10inch) and is builded from two main parts combined with some supports and gearbox. Not everything fit perfectly so I had to use a clamp to hold it until glue dries:


Lucky, frame is not bended. I also build part of the rear suspension (not workable/movable):


I also did a front suspension with axles. Wheels are steerable but I'm not sure for how long. To do them as steeable you have to push and click one part into another but you have to use a lot of force to do this. In this process both parts are a little bit damaged, so it might happen that when you put truck on wheels and some pressure will be put on this joints - they just might brake.


Also rims are mounted in the way I do not understand:


Piece marked as H9 should be polycap (in my opinion) but instead it is a pieco of plastic which you have to glue to the axle.
It is pretty shallow so to glue it properly you will have to use more glue but then you might just glue the whole rim to the axle and wheel won't turn.
I also prefer to have rims with tires seperately and after painting attach them to frame. So I did it in my own easy way.
I put some pattafix (bluetac) to one half of rim to temporarly hold H9 element. Then I just glue both halves without worring that I will loose the inner piece:



Then I did the rear suspension:


And tried it (dry - no glue) to the frame. Uff, it fits:


ThenI moved to the engine. Rather simple, not too many parts, some of them won't be visible at all, but I will add some wires probably (if I will find good reference photos):


Dryfit of engine to frame:
[/quote]




Hellrabbit
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United States
Joined: June 28, 2015
KitMaker: 139 posts
Armorama: 139 posts
Posted: Thursday, January 14, 2016 - 09:12 PM UTC
Weird.
Frenchy
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Rhone, France
Joined: December 02, 2002
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Posted: Thursday, January 14, 2016 - 09:14 PM UTC

Quoted Text

ThenI moved to the engine. Rather simple, not too many parts, some of them won't be visible at all, but I will add some wires probably (if I will find good reference photos)



There are a few on Primeportal :

http://data.primeportal.net/m984/dsc01311.jpg

http://data4.primeportal.net/hemtt2/dieter_krause/m1120_lhs/images/m1120_lhs_45_of_92.jpg

http://data4.primeportal.net/hemtt2/dieter_krause/m1120_lhs/images/m1120_lhs_46_of_92.jpg

http://data.primeportal.net/m1977/m1977_repair/Dsc05441.jpg

and here http://www.surplusman.com/Detail.php?itemid=4017

You can find the TM for the Detroit Diesel 8V92TA engine here :

http://www.tpub.com/content/misc_manuals_3/TM-9-2815-224-34-P/index.htm

H.P.
Gelerth
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Wojewodztwo Mazowieckie, Poland
Joined: October 29, 2010
KitMaker: 169 posts
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Posted: Thursday, January 14, 2016 - 09:16 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Weird.

If I might ask: What's weird?
Gelerth
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Wojewodztwo Mazowieckie, Poland
Joined: October 29, 2010
KitMaker: 169 posts
Armorama: 136 posts
Posted: Thursday, January 14, 2016 - 09:18 PM UTC

Quoted Text

There are a few on Primeportal :
...
H.P.

Thank you very much. Those a really useful photos.
Hellrabbit
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KitMaker: 139 posts
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Posted: Thursday, January 14, 2016 - 09:24 PM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

Weird.

If I might ask: What's weird?


I had a friend in Spain. He just finished the whole build in 2 days without any problem.....and talking about the pin mark. many of them wont be seen after complete build and paint.
Gelerth
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Wojewodztwo Mazowieckie, Poland
Joined: October 29, 2010
KitMaker: 169 posts
Armorama: 136 posts
Posted: Thursday, January 14, 2016 - 09:38 PM UTC

Quoted Text

I had a friend in Spain. He just finished the whole build in 2 days without any problem.....and talking about the pin mark. many of them wont be seen after complete build and paint.

Well, it's possible, I've seen such things on the youtube. They call it speedbuild or something similar. But it depends on the individual preferences. I would like to take a look at completed model as to be honest it is hard for me to believe that whole build can be done properly in 2 days. For me I pay a lot of attention to the details, thus need more time for every part. I clean it, fit, adjust, file if needed for couple of times, then glue, clean again and so on. I want to build as good model as possible, probably that's why I will finish it around March or April.
Also in my build I would like to show some weak point of the model, so while watch the photos you may decide to buy or not to buy, or see something that he didn't previously noticed and etc. Maybe I'm not the most experienced builder but I'm trying to improve with every model.
Anyway thank you for watching and your comments.
Hellrabbit
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United States
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Posted: Thursday, January 14, 2016 - 09:43 PM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

I had a friend in Spain. He just finished the whole build in 2 days without any problem.....and talking about the pin mark. many of them wont be seen after complete build and paint.

Well, it's possible, I've seen such things on the youtube. They call it speedbuild or something similar. But it depends on the individual preferences. I would like to take a look at completed model as to be honest it is hard for me to believe that whole build can be done properly in 2 days. For me I pay a lot of attention to the details, thus need more time for every part. I clean it, fit, adjust, file if needed for couple of times, then glue, clean again and so on. I want to build as good model as possible, probably that's why I will finish it around March or April.
Also in my build I would like to show some weak point of the model, so while watch the photos you may decide to buy or not to buy, or see something that he didn't previously noticed and etc. Maybe I'm not the most experienced builder but I'm trying to improve with every model.
Anyway thank you for watching and your comments.


Would like to see you final work when it is finished.
Best regard
HeavyArty
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Florida, United States
Joined: May 16, 2002
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Posted: Thursday, January 14, 2016 - 09:44 PM UTC
Looking good so far.

If you want to add detail to the engine area, Real Model has an engine set for it that looks really nice.



They also have a set specifically for the tractor that has a few more update pieces as well.

young_sven
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Skåne, Sweden
Joined: May 14, 2010
KitMaker: 749 posts
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Posted: Thursday, January 14, 2016 - 09:52 PM UTC
Przemek, great job so far. I have the highest respect for builders who make that extra effort and spend extra time to build and detail their models. I look forward to following this.

It took me four years to complete my last build, I guess that WOULD classify as weird.. haha. Speed build is nothing for me, that's for sure.. :-)

Gelerth
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Wojewodztwo Mazowieckie, Poland
Joined: October 29, 2010
KitMaker: 169 posts
Armorama: 136 posts
Posted: Saturday, January 16, 2016 - 02:53 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Looking good so far.
They also have a set specifically for the tractor that has a few more update pieces as well.

Thanks for the info but my budget was seriously impacted by buying the Patriot set.


Quoted Text

Przemek, great job so far. I have the highest respect for builders who make that extra effort and spend extra time to build and detail their models. I look forward to following this.
It took me four years to complete my last build, I guess that WOULD classify as weird.. haha. Speed build is nothing for me, that's for sure.. :-)

Thank you very much for watching. I build 2-4 models yearly if I get beyond 4 I'm really lucky and happy.

Ok. Back to business.
I decided to add some wiring to the exhaust as kit's pipe was terrible and there was no way to clean and sand it properly:


I've painted frame and suspension carts, luckily they fit together pretty well, I just had to shorten one transmission shaft:


I've painted also radiator:


And doing all that minor parts, tanks, fenders, etc:


I started equipping cabin, there is a lot of parts, unfortunately no information about colors:


And I did all the PE parts, not much, only 12 or so. What interesting date on the kit shows 2015 but on PE fret 2014:


Gelerth
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Wojewodztwo Mazowieckie, Poland
Joined: October 29, 2010
KitMaker: 169 posts
Armorama: 136 posts
Posted: Monday, January 18, 2016 - 04:30 PM UTC
I've added some wires and equipment to the engine. Now it looks like this:




And mounted on the frame:


And I finally get the launcher and the radar, so tonight I will start some work on these.
HermannB
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Bayern, Germany
Joined: October 14, 2008
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Posted: Monday, January 18, 2016 - 06:08 PM UTC
I started equipping cabin, there is a lot of parts, unfortunately no information about colors:


Here some interior colors:
Overall: Forest Green
Seat cusions: Buff approx. Tamiya XF-57
Seat frames: Black
Steering wheel: Semi-gloss black
Floor pedals: Flat Black
Dashboard: Forest Green with Black dials
Rear Wall, Roof and Airtunnel between seats: Black insulation
HTH
Hans-Hermann
HeavyArty
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Florida, United States
Joined: May 16, 2002
KitMaker: 17,694 posts
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Posted: Monday, January 18, 2016 - 06:27 PM UTC


A note on the frame...The frame and running gear should not be black.

US vehicles have the frame painted the same base color as the rest of the vehicle; ie. sand for a sand vehicle and forest green for a NATO camo vehicle.

You can see the forest green frame on the HEMTT tractor below.




Quoted Text

Here some interior colors:
Overall: Forest Green
Seat cusions: Buff approx. Tamiya XF-57
Seat frames: Black
Steering wheel: Semi-gloss black
Floor pedals: Flat Black
Dashboard: Forest Green with Black dials
Rear Wall, Roof and Airtunnel between seats: Black insulation



To illustrate the above some more, here are some cab interior pics.





Gelerth
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Wojewodztwo Mazowieckie, Poland
Joined: October 29, 2010
KitMaker: 169 posts
Armorama: 136 posts
Posted: Monday, January 18, 2016 - 06:41 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Here some interior colors:
Overall: Forest Green
Seat cusions: Buff approx. Tamiya XF-57
Seat frames: Black
Steering wheel: Semi-gloss black
Floor pedals: Flat Black
Dashboard: Forest Green with Black dials
Rear Wall, Roof and Airtunnel between seats: Black insulation
HTH
Hans-Hermann

THank you. This will be very useful.


Quoted Text

US vehicles have the frame painted the same base color as the rest of the vehicle; ie. sand for a sand vehicle and forest green for a NATO camo vehicle.

Yeah, I've noticed this. Probably I will just spray some green on the frame.
HermannB
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Bayern, Germany
Joined: October 14, 2008
KitMaker: 4,099 posts
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Posted: Monday, January 18, 2016 - 09:01 PM UTC
I have a walkaround on the M977 A4 on Primeportal.
http://www.primeportal.net/transports/dieter_krause/m977a4/index.php?Page=1
While the cab has a different layout, the detail colors are more or less the same.
pgb3476
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Texas, United States
Joined: March 11, 2007
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Posted: Monday, January 18, 2016 - 09:49 PM UTC
I don't think the turbo on top of the engine would look rusty and textured like that, all that I have seen are sort of a dark metal or aluminum color.
HeavyArty
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Florida, United States
Joined: May 16, 2002
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Posted: Monday, January 18, 2016 - 09:56 PM UTC

Quoted Text

I don't think the turbo on top of the engine would look rusty and textured like that, all that I have seen are sort of a dark metal or aluminum color.



The exhaust side of the turbo would/could be rusty depending on how much use the engine has. The intake side is a bare metal as you state, or painted metal, but not rusty.


Gelerth
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Wojewodztwo Mazowieckie, Poland
Joined: October 29, 2010
KitMaker: 169 posts
Armorama: 136 posts
Posted: Thursday, January 28, 2016 - 05:59 PM UTC
I pretty much completed all parts for trailer and radar:


as well as for trailer with missile launcher:


As I would like to build base with radar ready to action and M983 towing launcher trailer, support for radar were done as per manual, but for launcher I did them as fully workable.
Gelerth
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Wojewodztwo Mazowieckie, Poland
Joined: October 29, 2010
KitMaker: 169 posts
Armorama: 136 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 07, 2016 - 09:21 PM UTC
I did cab:




And painted M983 (parts):




And assmbled:


WXerock
#450
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California, United States
Joined: July 19, 2015
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Posted: Sunday, February 07, 2016 - 10:27 PM UTC
Gelerth, your NATO camo paint job is one of the best I've seen. Did you pre shade or post shade? Your free hand skills are amazing.

Regards,

Eric
HeavyArty
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Florida, United States
Joined: May 16, 2002
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Posted: Sunday, February 07, 2016 - 10:44 PM UTC
The tractor came out really nicely. Great job on the camo painting.
jvazquez
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New Jersey, United States
Joined: September 26, 2006
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Posted: Sunday, February 07, 2016 - 11:26 PM UTC
Very nice paint job!! Looks great!
Paulinsibculo
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Overijssel, Netherlands
Joined: July 01, 2010
KitMaker: 1,322 posts
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Posted: Sunday, February 07, 2016 - 11:48 PM UTC
hi Przemek,
impressive build!
Are the cabin decals part of the original model or update parts?
Thanks in advance.
SpaceXhydro
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England - South West, United Kingdom
Joined: March 13, 2015
KitMaker: 418 posts
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Posted: Monday, February 08, 2016 - 01:12 AM UTC
That looks really nice.
 _GOTOTOP