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Update Mk I A.R.V.
Ronald_Kok
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Gelderland, Netherlands
Joined: September 27, 2002
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Posted: Sunday, February 01, 2004 - 03:54 AM UTC
Hi,

The latest pictures of my Mk 1 before painting.

Only things to do is placing the wingnuts and sanding some putty on the towingbars.

Ronald









sniper
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New York, United States
Joined: May 07, 2002
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Posted: Sunday, February 01, 2004 - 04:09 AM UTC
WOW! I know that we are supposed to give some advice here, but I really don't know what to say about this build. You have done a spectacular job of a fascinating vehicle.

Could the tracks be a little bit crooked? I'm refering to the left side in photo 3. That's all I can see that may be the slightest bit off.

Maybe I will have something more helpfull to add when I see some paint and weathering...

Honestly, this is one of the better builds that I have seen.

Please give a bit more info on the kit and parts used for this.

Steve
tazz
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New York, United States
Joined: July 21, 2002
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Posted: Sunday, February 01, 2004 - 04:20 AM UTC
all i have to say is wow.
this is a master pice.
all that aftermarket stuff on there is cool.
i cant waite to see this painted. keep up the good work
Ronald_Kok
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Gelderland, Netherlands
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Posted: Sunday, February 01, 2004 - 04:22 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Could the tracks be a little bit crooked?
Please give a bit more info on the kit and parts used for this.

Steve



Hi Steve,
Youre right about the track.
The kit is Dragons Fire Fly (6121) with some Eduart etching and the conversion is from Resi Cast.

Painting?? still waithing for better wheather here in the Netherlands
WeWillHold
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Wisconsin, United States
Joined: April 17, 2002
KitMaker: 2,314 posts
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Posted: Sunday, February 01, 2004 - 04:36 AM UTC
Ron:

Just another super build from you Ron. These mixed media kits always look impressive. All your pe pieces are cleanly placed and formed, plus anyone that successfully completes a set of Dragon's indi links has patience--these look well done. A unique build here Ron--thanks for sharing, and looking forward to seeing this one painted.

Steve

scoccia
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Milano, Italy
Joined: September 02, 2002
KitMaker: 2,606 posts
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Posted: Sunday, February 01, 2004 - 04:53 AM UTC
The model it's really impressive, really. With such a level if the detail I wonder if it would be the case to do a bit of work on the .30...
Ciao
Ronald_Kok
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Gelderland, Netherlands
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Posted: Sunday, February 01, 2004 - 04:57 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Ron:

plus anyone that successfully completes a set of Dragon's indi links has patience
Steve




Thnx Steve for the kind words as usual.
About those tracks indeed you need a lot of patience never have such hard time with tracks as those from Dragon #:-)


Scoccia Good point about the `30 thnx

thebear
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Quebec, Canada
Joined: November 15, 2002
KitMaker: 3,960 posts
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Posted: Sunday, February 01, 2004 - 07:28 AM UTC
Ron ...Excellent work as usual ....your P/E looks awesome and now you got me thinking about buying that kit ....If there is one thing I noticed it is on one of tow cables you haven't sanded the end enough and can still see the sprue attachemnet point ...just a pass with a file and you are on your way to paint this baby!!
All the best
Rick
ShermiesRule
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Michigan, United States
Joined: December 11, 2003
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Posted: Sunday, February 01, 2004 - 07:46 AM UTC
I have always wanted to ask this. I usually paint my models as I go, especially parts like the rubber around the wheels, the hull bottoms and other stuff where it would be difficult to reach after assembly. I don't know any other way of painting hard to reach areas.

How do you intend on painting that beauty? Does it come apart? If it does come apart, how did you keep it together?
thebear
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Quebec, Canada
Joined: November 15, 2002
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Posted: Sunday, February 01, 2004 - 08:20 AM UTC
Hi Shermy ..I'm not Ron but I think it is just a matter of getting used to painting the finished models ..I used to be like you but now I finish my models to about 90% before I paint them...I always give a dark preshade coat so this will get into all the nooks and crannies and then painting the rest is just filling in the panels with the colors ...another great thing about this is all your clamps and are already painted to match your vehicle and to paint the tools is just as easy on or off the tank.You also have no shiny glue spots showing in the end ...nothing like a good wash to blend in the different colors ,so even if you aren't a steady painter you'll see the wash will hide most little defects...wheels and track are the same you paint them as close as possible then flow in a dark wash and there ya go! After adding dust and dirt to the wheels most of your hard work is hidden under a cloud of dust anyways ...It is all in the way you feel the most comfortable ..no right or wrong way to do this ...experiment with it and you'll see how it goes ...

Rick
Ronald_Kok
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Gelderland, Netherlands
Joined: September 27, 2002
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Posted: Sunday, February 01, 2004 - 09:49 AM UTC

Quoted Text

If there is one thing I noticed it is on one of tow cables you haven't sanded the end enough and can still see the sprue attachemnet pointRick



Thnx Rick I have seen it to on the picture, shame on me #:-)

@ Shermie, its just what Rick say`s there is no good or wrong way to finnish you vehicle.
Use you own method if you like that nothing wrong there.

The way I do the most importand thing is a steady hand and no beer during painting
ShermiesRule
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Michigan, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, February 03, 2004 - 05:51 AM UTC
Ron perhaps you can post a few pics of the next painting lever but before the final product. I'd like to see how you hit the samll details with paint.

I could use some small examples. When you say you pre-shade is this the black undercoat or OD? Hand paint or airbrushed?

Once you get the pre-shade, how do you paint the hulls? Hand or spray?

Then the hard to reach stuff like the rubber around the roadwheels or even the area where the roadwheel touches the track. How the heck to you get into that fine area? The backside of the return roller?

Does all the gear on top come off so you can paint the tank then refit all the gear on top?
Ronald_Kok
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Gelderland, Netherlands
Joined: September 27, 2002
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Posted: Tuesday, February 03, 2004 - 11:12 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Ron perhaps you can post a few pics of the next painting lever but before the final product. I'd like to see how you hit the samll details with paint.

I could use some small examples. When you say you pre-shade is this the black undercoat or OD? Hand paint or airbrushed?

Once you get the pre-shade, how do you paint the hulls? Hand or spray?

Then the hard to reach stuff like the rubber around the roadwheels or even the area where the roadwheel touches the track. How the heck to you get into that fine area? The backside of the return roller?

Does all the gear on top come off so you can paint the tank then refit all the gear on top?



Its simpel to paint the small details, you need only a few good brushes thats half the work and a steady hand.

I airbrush my models, for the base color I use OD en a light overspray with a few mixes of OD in a lighter color.

The backside of the return roller? why should I paint that nobody can see it
#:-)

And the stuff on the engine deck is not glued to the vehicle.

Paints that I used are from Tamiya (airbrush) and Humbrol and sometimes Vallejo for brushing.

Ronald
thebear
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Quebec, Canada
Joined: November 15, 2002
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Posted: Tuesday, February 03, 2004 - 11:18 AM UTC
I can't say for Ron again but I do 95% of my painting with the airbrush ....it is much easier than you think to get in to the tight places and where you can't go with an airbrush ,,no one will be able to see anyways ....Shep Paine used to say that you only paint what you can see...As for the color of the pre-shade I use Black for OD vehicles but use a brown color for dark yellow colors ...you can try different things out as you go ...I use a Tamiya Superfine airbrush and can even paint the rubber on the roadwheels with it if I want to...I did this on my hetzer and looks fine ..only the tools were painted by hand and the washes of coarse.With all the weathering I do you can blend in any little mistakes and no one will see them..

Rick

Rick
Twig
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England - North East, United Kingdom
Joined: March 24, 2003
KitMaker: 167 posts
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Posted: Tuesday, February 03, 2004 - 09:28 PM UTC
Ron,

Very nice item of work you have created here. Can I ask a few questions? ..

1) are the Dragon tracks link and length or individuals - if the latter how were they for sink marks, ejector plugs?
2) were the spare sprocket plates and wheels included in the kit or are they from elsewhere?
3) has all the brass been scratched or is this also from a set?
4) if it has not already been answered elsewhere can I ask who makes the resin conversion set.

One thing I did notice on the 5th photo were the spare track links. The grouser pattern on the resin spares are very noticeably different from the kit parts, the pattern on the resin items seems very thin. This does not detract from the model - it just makes these spares look odd - were there no extra kit links you could have used.

Overall a fine piece of work and I look forward to seeing it painted. BTW are you going to T&T this year?

Lee
Major_Goose
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Kikladhes, Greece / Ελλάδα
Joined: September 30, 2003
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Posted: Tuesday, February 03, 2004 - 10:09 PM UTC
also wanted to ask , for the tow cables you used rope of what diameter aproxx and did you hardened with white glue or something similiar?

Ronald_Kok
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Gelderland, Netherlands
Joined: September 27, 2002
KitMaker: 484 posts
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Posted: Tuesday, February 03, 2004 - 10:38 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Ron,

Very nice item of work you have created here. Can I ask a few questions? ..

1) are the Dragon tracks link and length or individuals - if the latter how were they for sink marks, ejector plugs?
2) were the spare sprocket plates and wheels included in the kit or are they from elsewhere?
3) has all the brass been scratched or is this also from a set?
4) if it has not already been answered elsewhere can I ask who makes the resin conversion set.

One thing I did notice on the 5th photo were the spare track links. The grouser pattern on the resin spares are very noticeably different from the kit parts, the pattern on the resin items seems very thin. This does not detract from the model - it just makes these spares look odd - were there no extra kit links you could have used.

Overall a fine piece of work and I look forward to seeing it painted. BTW are you going to T&T this year?

Lee



Hi lee,

Here are some answers.
1) individuals and there is a litle sinkhol on each track just after the patern? Vshape of the track, if you look close to the picture you can see some dilluted putty to fill the sinchole not to much work.

2) The sprocket plate and wheels are from the Dragon kit (6121 kit number) there are lots of wheels in that kit.

3 and 4) The conversie is from Resi Cast with PE included and a set from Eduart PE

About the spare tracks, hmmmmmmm never noticed that

T&T never been there, maybe next year for the first time

@ Major_Goose, I doint know the right diameter for the towing cables they are in the conversie set,but looking at them tey are the same size as the towingcables that are in some kits.
I have hardened the cables with some gleu but its not perfect, maybe I will try some white gleu thanks for the tip
Twig
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England - North East, United Kingdom
Joined: March 24, 2003
KitMaker: 167 posts
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Posted: Wednesday, February 04, 2004 - 12:52 AM UTC
Ron,

Thanks very much for the answers - as to the spare track links, I have the set from the resicast DD sherman I did left over as I used fruils. I am sure these tracks (resin link and length) have a much wider pattern (I think they are copied from fruils anyway ) and if you want I could send you a few strips. Just let me know.

Lee
Hollowpoint
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Kansas, United States
Joined: January 24, 2002
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Posted: Wednesday, February 04, 2004 - 01:29 AM UTC
Ronald:

I really like this conversion. It's a bit unusual, but has lots of gear to keep the eye interested.

I'd imagine that the conversion isn't very expensive, but it looks to me like most of the pieces would be easy to scratchbuild. (I have an M4A4 hull and lots of bits laying around ... hmmmm.)

My question is this: Do you have any good references for this vehicle? I have some plans out of an old Airfix magazine, but they are very simplified -- I believe they were made for someone converting a 1/72nd scale vehicle. Any recommendations on a refernce?
Ronald_Kok
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Gelderland, Netherlands
Joined: September 27, 2002
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Posted: Wednesday, February 04, 2004 - 08:58 AM UTC
@ Hollowpoint the references that I have used are Allied -Axis a few good shots about the Mk I, Mk II ARV and also from the M-32 and Churchill ARV and off course the TM of the Mk I, no 1/35 scale drawings there just 3 or drawings where the equipment comes.

Ronald
Captain94
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California, United States
Joined: October 06, 2002
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Posted: Wednesday, February 04, 2004 - 10:11 AM UTC
Very nice Ron.

So much gear, so little space to put it all

I thought the vise was a nice touch as well.

More pics as you start painting, please!

 _GOTOTOP