Just looking at my clear parts and noticed a lot of the larger clear parts have lines waving through them. Almost like cracks, but inside the plastic. Anyone else have this issue? I've never contacted Academy for replacement parts, but may have to email MRC for this one...looks crappy

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Just looking at my clear parts and noticed a lot of the larger clear parts have lines waving through them. Almost like cracks, but inside the plastic. Anyone else have this issue? I've never contacted Academy for replacement parts, but may have to email MRC for this one...looks crappy

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Don't expect replacement parts to be any better. It is a flaw of the sprue design. For clear parts the sprue design should direct the styrene into the larger parts mold just from one side. When styrene flows from two (or more) sides the flow line - where two "streams" of styrene meet - is almost inevitable.

What parts are affected and are they really needed in clear plastic anyways?

I find most of the parts cast in clear on a tank model are not really clear on the actual tank. Periscopes are not clear on older (WWII-80s) or newer (anti-laser coated) optics. If you look at optics on real tanks, the older ones appear as dark green (due to the thickness of the glass) and the newer, anti-laser coated ones look alternately red/gold/purple/dark blue etc. as the light reflects off them differently. These effects are better replicated with paint in my opinion.

So the question is, Does it really matter?

I'll probably be buying some clear plastic and make my own. Wonder if they make tinted pieces to look like armored glass?

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I'll probably be buying some clear plastic and make my own. Wonder if they make tinted pieces to look like armored glass?

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Maybe....

http://armorama.com/forums/237140&page=1

H.P.

Jason, check out this thread I started about window tinting film:

https://armorama.kitmaker.net/forums/245244#2070515

This product is easy to use and their samples are cheap.

Regargs,

Eric