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Armor/AFV
For discussions on tanks, artillery, jeeps, etc.
Best Panther treads?
jrutman
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Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: April 10, 2011
KitMaker: 7,941 posts
Armorama: 7,934 posts
Posted: Thursday, July 14, 2016 - 09:56 PM UTC
I am actually wanting to build a tank and was wondering about the thoughts out there as to best resin or metal tracks to use? I am not that familiar with any new releases. I was also wondering where would I buy those items in the USA preferably? But I am flexible (like the tracks )
J
Tojo72
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North Carolina, United States
Joined: June 06, 2006
KitMaker: 4,691 posts
Armorama: 3,509 posts
Posted: Thursday, July 14, 2016 - 10:25 PM UTC
If I use AM tracks,I prefer metal to resin.I have used Fruils which have gotten expensive,but I have also used Spade Ace Tracks which were a little cheaper and looked good.I have also heard good things about Masterclub which have both types and are available from a vendor here on the board.

I wouldn't worry too much about oversea purchases,most are okay,don't hesitate to ask about one you might use,and use PayPal to pay if you are concerned.

I also have found cheaper tracks in Ebay shops.Just watch postage.
kennethc
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Arkansas, United States
Joined: October 04, 2006
KitMaker: 348 posts
Armorama: 78 posts
Posted: Thursday, July 14, 2016 - 10:52 PM UTC
Ive uses Model Kasten and Fruil. The MK ones were a bit more refine but a pain to build. Fruil is the way to go.. or one of the other metal brands i guess. Tamiya has a nice plastic set for the D.
Cantstopbuyingkits
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European Union
Joined: January 28, 2015
KitMaker: 2,099 posts
Armorama: 1,920 posts
Posted: Friday, July 15, 2016 - 02:51 AM UTC
I would suggest the Bronco set, it has snap together pins and interergal guide horns [with accurate holes] for £12.
redcap
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England - East Midlands, United Kingdom
Joined: November 06, 2005
KitMaker: 753 posts
Armorama: 378 posts
Posted: Friday, July 15, 2016 - 03:02 AM UTC

Not the cheapest - but the best - FRIULS every time for me.

You cannot beat the natural weighted 'sag' appearance of the tracks and that satisfying feeling of weight which elevates the piece into a quality model, rather than a lightweight feeling toy.

Gary
Biggles2
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Quebec, Canada
Joined: January 01, 2004
KitMaker: 7,600 posts
Armorama: 6,110 posts
Posted: Friday, July 15, 2016 - 03:57 AM UTC

Quoted Text

... and that satisfying feeling of weight which elevates the piece into a quality model, rather than a lightweight feeling toy.

Gary


Really? You believe the weight of a model indicates it's quality? Maybe...if it was made of gold!
MLD
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Vermont, United States
Joined: July 21, 2002
KitMaker: 3,569 posts
Armorama: 2,070 posts
Posted: Friday, July 15, 2016 - 07:26 PM UTC
Well that's a can of worms for sure.

For my modeling $$

The old Anvil Resin (Later WWII productions, but the quality was lower on these) click together tracks were nearly perfect.
Sadly long oop and might as well be made of pure unobtanium, so moving on..

Old Fruil 'pinch together' metal links, also oop (noticing a trend here..) and while not impossibly priced, hard to find.

newer Fruils take SOOOOOOOOO long to drill and pin, they reluctantly come in third place. not cheap, but available. These are not 'handed' so the pins are exposed on one while side, depending on the level of your AMS, this is also time consuming to address.

I have not tried Spade Ace or Masterclub.

On the plus side, there is a reboot of the Anvil/WWII Productions line coming. GTC Resin (I think that's the name)but no Panther Tracks yet.

There is also a line of metal pinch together tracks out there, packaged in small clamshell hanging boxes, name escapes me.. who may also be doing panther tracks in metal.

My US$0.02, your mileage may vary
Mike
TopSmith
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Washington, United States
Joined: August 09, 2002
KitMaker: 1,742 posts
Armorama: 1,658 posts
Posted: Friday, July 15, 2016 - 07:50 PM UTC
Why do you redrill the Fruils? I just get some staples and straighten one side so it looks like an "L". I use them as my pin. There is no drilling and when I have done the entire track I then clip off the excess length. Quick and simple.
MLD
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Vermont, United States
Joined: July 21, 2002
KitMaker: 3,569 posts
Armorama: 2,070 posts
Posted: Friday, July 15, 2016 - 08:04 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Why do you redrill the Fruils? I just get some staples and straighten one side so it looks like an "L". I use them as my pin. There is no drilling and when I have done the entire track I then clip off the excess length. Quick and simple.


I have found the molding quality of Fruils to be hit or miss, especially on the older sets. Many links the pin channel is flashed over or molded nearly solid.
For me it is easier to drill each link, then go back and pin them. I usually replace their flimsy wire with brass rod.
Chuck4
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United States
Joined: November 13, 2013
KitMaker: 403 posts
Armorama: 401 posts
Posted: Friday, July 15, 2016 - 09:17 PM UTC
I prefer Spade Ace over fruil. The molding quality for spade ace is better in the comparable sets I've compared. Spade ace all come drilled through with track pin holes. There is often some flash on the outside, but that's much easier to clean up than having to drill track pin holes for each and every link.

The main problem some people complained about is space ace use stiff steel piano wire for track pins instead of more easily workable copper wire that fruil uses. I've not had problem with those.
easyco69
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Ontario, Canada
Joined: November 03, 2012
KitMaker: 2,275 posts
Armorama: 2,233 posts
Posted: Friday, July 15, 2016 - 09:55 PM UTC
FRIULS from Poland. Haven't tried any other metal but I know I like Friul.
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