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Need help with Clear Coating!
Sergas
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Ontario, Canada
Joined: April 13, 2017
KitMaker: 51 posts
Armorama: 37 posts
Posted: Wednesday, May 17, 2017 - 09:43 AM UTC
Hi, i have a problem when it comes to sealing my Paints, so i can do weathering on my Models.
I use Testors Dullcote over Tamiya Acrylic Paints.
The way i want to weather my next Model is: Applying Tamiya Lacquer Thinner, so my washes do not stain the surface. I saw a couple Guys on Youtube using this technique and i wanna try that myself.

But the Problem i have:
When i apply just a little amount of Thinner to the Modell and i wanna remove a little bit of Paint(when i applied to much shipping for example). The Thinner just eats right thru the Clear Coat!

The way that i applied my clear coats so far:
Seal the Paint with Testors Dullcote.
Let it dry for at least 12 hours.
Apply my Decals and do my weathering and that was my finished Model.
I used to apply the clear coat kinda heavy, because i thought (still new to this Hobby) that would protect my Paints even more. But it just screwed up my Paint job on some of my Models (running paint spots etc). But now i just apply it lightly.

So m i using a wrong Product? Or m i not giving the clear coat enough time to dry proper?
Maybe Testors Dullcote does not like Tamiya paint or vice versa. I would use Tamiya`s Flat Clear or Semi Gloss Clear, but i heard that could destroy Decals? Because now i think i have to do two coats of sealer.
At the moment i work on a Elefant from Tamiya. I already applied one coat of Testors, applied my Decals, did dry brushing and shipping and gave it another coat of Testors.
I heard Minerals Spirits are not as "heavy" as Tamiya thinner, so i might pick up a bottle. Because i don`t wanna pull off any of my previous work, when i apply Thinner to the Model.

So any help here is appreciated

cheers David
retiredyank
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Arkansas, United States
Joined: June 29, 2009
KitMaker: 11,610 posts
Armorama: 7,843 posts
Posted: Wednesday, May 17, 2017 - 05:10 PM UTC
This thread should help.

http://armorama.kitmaker.net/forums/140764&page=1
M4A3E8Easy8
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Washington, United States
Joined: February 04, 2006
KitMaker: 302 posts
Armorama: 300 posts
Posted: Wednesday, May 17, 2017 - 08:17 PM UTC
your biggest issue is the dry time. Letting it dry 12 hours is just not enough to get it dried. Second issue is the thinner. Spirits are the way to go, the are much cooler that the hotter tamiya. I may want to add that a coat over your decals might be a good idea. They do not stand up well to weathering.
Knuckles
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Oregon, United States
Joined: March 09, 2017
KitMaker: 525 posts
Armorama: 266 posts
Posted: Wednesday, May 17, 2017 - 08:39 PM UTC
This stuff (Gamsol) is my bread and butter for this application (also thinning oils):

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GAMBLIN-ARTISTS-COLORS-CO-GB00094-GAMSOL-ODORLESS-MINERAL-SPIRITS-4-2-125ML-/252730495691?hash=item3ad7e952cb:g:OuIAAOSwLEtYf98w
Namabiiru
Staff MemberAssociate Editor
MODEL SHIPWRIGHTS
#399
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Rhode Island, United States
Joined: March 05, 2014
KitMaker: 2,888 posts
Armorama: 1,920 posts
Posted: Wednesday, May 17, 2017 - 09:40 PM UTC
David,
What I do is use Pledge floor polish over a thoroughly cured acrylic base, apply decals, then seal with either another coat of Pledge or Vallejo acrylic varnish (matt or satin, depending on the finish I want. This pretty much assures no interaction problems when weathering with oils thinned with mineral spirits.

The Pledge is great for a sealing coat because only ammonia-based solvents will do anything to it and pure ammonia will strip it completely no matter how long it's cured (in case I decide I screwed up and want to start over)

Also, test whatever thinner you use with your oils before you start in for real. The turpentine I used to get in Japan worked great when weathering acrylics, but the turpentine available here is too aggressive and will ruin acrylics.

Sergas
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Ontario, Canada
Joined: April 13, 2017
KitMaker: 51 posts
Armorama: 37 posts
Posted: Thursday, May 18, 2017 - 09:59 AM UTC
Thanks guys for your help.

cheers
David
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