@KoSprueOne

Funny

...

Wheatering the vehicle. Different Mig filters, pin wash with oils. Slow progress due to drying time of each filter and the oils...



Regards
- dutik

Slow progress only. Filters and oil paints need some days of drying time before I can add the next layer.






Gray and black areas are ready. The green areas still need highlights and detail work.

Regards
- dutik

Hi,

Lots of details since my last visit! Coming along nicely!

Cheers,

Maher

Great build. I've just ordered one after building the Brem 4.
Any further updates ? Would live to see the finished article.

I'm coming, I'm coming. You will get updates whenever new stuff is ready.

Green is on:




Wheels were painted too:



Working at scratches, chipping an such at the moment.

Regards
- dutik

More wheatering by using sponge technique, painting chipping and scratches with a fine brush, misting the lower body, wheels and sideskirts with heavily diluted Buff, restoring overdone areas, usind some strong wording here and there , well - the common paintjob





Also started building the track (tiny single links) and the fitting of the wheels.

Enjoy
- dutik

Added the wheels. Had to drill out the holes somewhat to fit them to the supports. Now building up the tracks. The links are one-piece and clickable, but very small, what slows down construction tempo. As a side effort I started to paint the luggage for the top box.



Enjoy!

Those tracks.
Double pin tracks have two hinges between adjacent links.
If these are clickable I assume that the end connectors are moulded onto each link and click onto the next link.
When a double pin track bends around a wheel the end connector is not in line with the two links it connects.
If you want to spend some work on this you will need to cut off the connectors, glue the links to the wheels they bend around and then add the connectors.
/ Robin

In the real world: Yes.

But the track links are so small the visible difference is negligible and the whole effort not worth the hassle. So I use them ootb.

Nevertheless thank you for the advise. It is always good to have a second pair of eyes on the target.

Regards
- dutik

I found out the hard way when I couldn't get the links to look good on the first Dragon BMP I built.
It looked really strange on the sprocket wheel.

Try to wrap a few links around the sprocket and check what it looks like. If you get one connector in the correct position it will push the link it belongs to out of line and the link it connects to will be correct but the connector for that link will be in the wrong place.
But, if you are satisfied then it's OK with me

The size of the links isn't the most important factor, most of the visual appearance depends on the size of the wheels that the track bends around. It could look OK on a really big wheel but with decreasing diameter it will look worse and worse ...
/ Robin

Got it. Tried it - the fit around the drive sprocket is really aweful.

To remove the end connectors and to glue them in place in new position will be very, very fiddly. Good news - only 5-6 links per side need some surgery. Will give it a try.

Regards
- dutik

It sucks!
I know.
I have done it on 5-6 models. One of them was one of Dragons early kits of a HVSS Sherman, two end connectors + the part in the middle, 5 small pieces of plastic to get properly aligned ....

Glue the links to the wheels first and then glue the end connectors to the links when the links are firmly in position on the wheels.
The clickable feature at least gives you some guidance with the little knob and hole.
Good luck !

/ Robin

There was a major break due to the track problem caused by Trumpeter. Two possibel solutions: Buy a set of workable AM tracks or cut off the endconnectors and reglue them.


I modified the kits tracks. I drilled 0,5mm holes into each track link (6 per link), cut off the endconnectors and glued wire pins into them to make them fully workable:



Yes, the grid is 1 cm each.

Here I run in trouble: Even using Tamiya tape to hold the links in place it was impossible to add all the endconnectors to make a short run of tracks. Some of them always fell off...

To superglue them in place was no appropriate answer: They had to stay workable until wrapped around the drive sprocket.

The final solution was to use white glue. White glue is tacky while having a longer drying time. Dipped the pins into some white glue and placed them. It worked! Finally I was able to wrap the track around the drive sprocket and to secure it in place.



Have to add two more links, but this is a minor task now.

Enjoy!
- dutik

Good problem solving, Dutik. Hope that works.