I still have a large majority of the weathering left to do. This is primarily a post shading in black followed by lighter mixes of Tamiya Olive Green with some drybrushing and chipping. I still have a filter, washes and pastel powders to add. That's tape over the windows yet. Kind of a tough kit to put together as the part fit is a bit off sometimes.

Looks great pcmodeler, how did you weather the wheels? What's the decal on the door?

Howdy Mark,

Thx for sharing your pic of the URAL. She's looking good!
I've got the very same kit (got it with the BS-3). And I have been anxious for quite some time to build it. I've got a Command & Control 'house body' destined to mate with it.
You say you had some fit issues....could you be more specific? Or at the very least tell me what to watch out for?
Thanks.
On your 4320, it looks like you've got the colouring down. And your wheel hubs look great. I'd tone down the dry-brushing(?) on the outer tyre edge's a tad.
As Paul said, what's the decal on the door? It almost looks like a California Highway Patrol splash.

Tread.

The wheels haven't actually been weathered yet other than being sprayed flat black and being drybrushed with a panzer gray.

I'm not sure what the particular marking is on the door. Just happened to be one of 13 choices for markings.

The drybrushing will tone down once I apply the filters, washes and pastels.

Quick things to watch out for based on instruction step numbers:

1. You will need to scratch build a clutch pedal to match the brake pedal as there is none in the kit.
2. Make sure you have the tires markings facing outside with the tread pointing forward. Make sure you use the rim with no lug nuts on the spare tire.
3. The edges of the hood either need to be trimmed or the lips need to be removed on the side panels in order to properly seat the hood. The mirrors should actually mount to the A-pillar and not the pillar of the door (fill the mounting hole) as you won't be able to open the doors. Do a lot of test fitting.
4. Do a lot of test fitting on the various pulleys as it's tough to tell how far in they should mount.
5. Part b44 should mount as far down as possible or the transmission will not sit correctly. Aligning the chassis so that it's straight is best done by laying a book on it while it dries. The ends of b30 should be trimmed off or the stearing arms (should actually only be one of these anyway) will hit the tires.
7. Work slowly on the spare tire rack as mine had warpage that required I wait until one part was dry prior to attaching the next.
9 Test fit the wheelwells in order to make sure they align properly on the body and chassis.

The biggest bit of advise is to take your time and do a lot of test fitting.



Say, where did you happen to find a command module? I have another kit that I wanted to build. I was going to up armor it but would prefer to add the command module.

Howdy Mark,

I salute you sir for providing some 'insight' on the URAL build-up! I will be utilizing your suggestions like a set of instructions...
As to your question regarding the C&C 'house body' conversion. The company that manufacture's it is Real Model's. The kit # is 35 052. It is sculpted by a gentleman named Petr Hanus. The kit comes as two major pieces, plus a small bag of additional items.
The main 'house body' section comes in a one-piece 'body', with the lower 'floor' section as the largest pieces of the kit. There are approx. a little more than a dozen additional pieces that come with the kit that are of the same high quality moulding.
I would recommend the kit! Of course I intend to add a bit of scratching to it, just to create a better final product.
hth.

Tread.

Oops...almost forgot. Here's a pic of how the Real Model's 'house body' conversion is supposed to look on the URAL kit.



And here are a couple of pics of a very nicely done 4320 kit!
Hope you like!





Tread.