Right, first off, let’s get this straight... posting images with an iPad, check.

This is going to be an out of the box build log of the Zvezda Bumerang 8x8 IFV, which I intend to complete over the coming days / weeks. Bare with me, this is my first Zvezda kit, and build log here, and I’m looking forward to it. I’m usually an Axis or modern US modeller, but will take on any quality kit of an interesting subject. And this kit fits the bill, nicely.

Ok, that’s the introduction out of the way. Images:



The kit arrives in a sturdy sleeve box, with another box inside that is a ‘tray with lid’; the art work is rudimentary, but glossy, and altogether the package inspires confidence in a quality kit. I was not disappointed.



The box is full with several sprues, rubber wheels, the hull (which is not small), decals, instructions, and some miscellaneous parts. Plenty to get on with over a weekend.



This is the first step, nearly completed. These are the subassemblies that make up the turret. Before I delve into the details, I was surprised to find the barrels (main gun and coaxial) need to be drilled out.

Very interesting, thanks. It's much bigger than I thought!

I’ll be watching

I'll follow as well. I have this one in the stash.
I just can't understand why Zvezda still don't give a full set of views for the multicolor camo schemes. You only get one side and the front and rear views. Same with their Pantsir.

Olivier

I built Panda models version a while back. The kit is a bit of a mixed bag with some warping on the upper hull and fit issues with the suspension. Molding is overall very well done and builds up into a decent kit with a bit of perciverence. It's going to be interesting to see how the two compare, personally I think the zvezda offering will likely take the crown.

Some construction notes at about this time would be helpful… the instructions call for side-cutters, tweezers, and a scalpel, which I duly assembled. And changed the blade in my scalpel. The turret itself is made up of five flat plates, which would benefit from some solid mounting points, rather than sitting against each other. Fit was good, minor, hairline gaps which filled with glue easily and will disappear altogether once painted. I hope. The detail is very good, and crisp. There are no options at this stage, so box on. The sub-assemblies include the missile tubes either side of the turret, two sensors, and the main gun. As mentioned, the barrels needed to be drilled, which came as a surprise given how new the kit is.

Take your time on the missile tubes, these are ‘handed’, and directional, too. I kept referring back to the directions to ensure the correct part was facing the correct direction, before committing with any glue. As an aside, I am using the new Tamiya Ultra-thin glue for the build, and it works a treat. The missile tubes themselves have pegs with matching holes, with a small and a large peg for correct orientation. Get these correct or your missiles will be firing backwards. And we all know how that ends. Careful gluing here, and the racks will pivot in place, up and down. I’m not too fussed about this, but will make for easier painting later. I managed to keep one free, the other refused my best efforts, and is glued fixed in the horizontal. You’re results may vary. These are multi-part affairs and really look the business. I was impressed with the engineering that went into them. There is no un-necessary over-engineering here, the parts breakdown is logical and functional. As for scale thickness, or dimensions, I’ve no references to compare and am not in a position to comment. Looking at images on line, everything is as it should be.

There is, I think, an error at this point. Part C-4 is handed and needs to face inwards to the turret, but this is not identified in the instructions. Careful attention to the instructions paid off here, and not racing ahead.

The two sensors either side of the main gun have a clear piece of plastic that sits in behind the front face for a realistic view of the multitude of sensors that these represent. Again, fit was good, as was the detail. I've not glued these in place yet, to assist with painting later.

Once the sub-assemblies were completed, I fitted the missiles and barrels to the turret shell, and later added the handles and masts at the back. The masts had minor seam lines, but nothing fatal to a good modeller. Be aware of part C-5, don’t overlook it, and be sure to get the orientation correct, it should face forwards, not up. As there are no hatches to open, the turret is done.

oh, one last thing, the main gun does not elevate. Again, not a big deal, just something to be aware of.

These are the subassemblies that make up the turret, that when added, look like this:

Tonight’s job, the upper deck of the hull... which is a substantial price of plastic...
Top

Underneath

Not a lot to be seen here, added some handles, the back hatches, and some cross members here and there. Nothing difficult too do, fit was good throughout.

Good job on the turret. It looks like the missiles have not the same angle on both sides of the turret.

Olivier

Thank you, Olivier; one side was more cooperative than the other, I was able to keep one free to swivel. I may yet fix it in the horizontal.

This is a gorgeous kit so far.

Tonight, a little dry fitting of parts,


Progress has been brisk to date, and this will slow to a crawl as I start on the suspension and wheels. This is where the majority of parts are, and most of it will be unseen.

Back plate before,

And after


And,

It may be time for a bit of commentary here... I did note that the rear ramp, and inset door, are moulded closed in a single piece. This is disappointing as there is no option to open the kit up. That said there is no interior to speak of, so it may not be that big a deal. The hatches on the roof of the troop compartment can be open, if you want to.

There have been no fit issues to note, minimum clean up, and no knock out marks visible once finished. The subassemblies are logical, but I think I will pause here, as the instructions call for the fitting of the upper deck subassemblies and then work on the suspension. I’ll complete the suspension first, then fit the upper deck parts o avoid breaking off any of the details.

The bulk of the kit is in the suspension and I don’t want to rush it.

Note: parts F1 and F2 need to be swapped. It’s obvious when you’re building, as the angles don’t match.

Bother,


I’m fairly certain that this is not a design feature.... it would appear that the tabs on F8 and F9 need sanding down, almost to the point of flush. Now to try and fix this little booboo.

I’m still trying to work out a solution to those corners... in the meantime, I’ve pushed on with the suspension:


I found I had to study the instructions and check I had orientated the park correctly, before dry fitting and gluing in place. The suspension is workable, too.

I’m having real difficulties with the last plate that makes up the top of the vehicle. After shaving away all the locating tabs on the rear deck, and some from the side walls of the hull, I managed to fit the rear deck flush with the sides. Now, however, I’m trying to figure out a way to fit the engine deck; and it looks like it needs a bit of surgery, too.

I’m in two minds about whether it is an engineering issue, or I’ve failed to fit things correctly. Im tending towards the former, as I cannot see how things would fit differently. Will keep you up dated,

No, I am definitely of the opinion that the side walls of the hull are too high. I have a small pile of shavings on the floor to show for it.

Still on the suspension...


This is steps 19b x4, 19c, 19d, 20a, 20b, and 20c x2. I’ve only done the right hand side components of the suspension because there are four points (arrows) to line up with each wheel... and there are eight wheels. I don’t want to muck this up and have put aside this weekend to knock it out, one side at a time. Those arrows point out where each of the four points need to connect, see below...



I’ve left the drive shaft loose so as to ease alignment later.

Image 1

Here, I glued the steering rod first (red arrow), held that firm until the glue cured, then glued the top of the suspension in place (black arrow).

Image 2

I used the drive shaft (black arrow) to align the sub-assembly, glued that, then glued the bottom of the suspension unit. Again, holding parts in place with tweezers until the glue cured. This was time consuming to say the least, and there is a bit of tension on the parts. I’d recommend keeping the swing arms free floating so as to facilitate fitting the wheel rims here.

Now, that is one done... 7 to go

Do you use MEK for gluing parts? It cures in a few seconds

Hi Carlos,

I’m using Tamiya Xtra thin, with mixed results. It’s the new formula and is very thin, and dries very fast, too.

Anyway, final steps, I literally have a half dozen parts left to add to the subassemblies. The subassemblies are the turret, two sensors, the hull, and eight wheels...





It’s been an effort, but I hope to have this wrapped up tomorrow.

Until I noticed the wheel, top row, second in from the left. It’s slightly off square.

This is a complex kit which would benefit from some pre-planning, I’d only replace the aerials/ masts for the ones by Voyager only because they’d be more sturdy than the kit.