Hi,
This is my first attempt on assembling separate link tracks. The subject is a Hetzer from Dragon with at Eduard PE set.



Please give me some comments on what I could do better.

Hi Norseman,

although the picture is very blurry I can see that the tracks are oke. They have a nice sag. Are you sure it was your first try?

It really is my first attempt.
I made one mistake which resulted in that the track is a bit to short (between roadwheel 3 and 4). I guess I'll cover it up with some mud when I attach it to the display base.

What set did you use? Are they early or late version tracks?

Thanks,
Paul

Too bad you didn't catch it sooner. You could have snugged up some of the slack. Oh, well. Next time. Looks good, otherwise.

The tracks are the ones that comes with the kit. its a early version of the Hetzer.

Hi Norseman

A good job for your first attempt.

I havent built this dragon kit but I can imagine the size of the tracks is real small and fiddly.

I wouldnt worry about the tightness or sag too much because arent there side covers/fenders to go on?

I have done a lot of individual tracks and whilst my first attempt was both a terrible ordeal and a trial of patience I liked the look.

Now I have done lots of them I love them and in fact i do fellow modellers ones for them as a "consultant".

I can do both sides of a Tiger 1 in 25 minutes and a Panzer III in about 40 minutes.

Some tips for you:

1. Prepare and glue more links than you need. You can always pull them of but I use the extras to provide the necessary numbers to produce that good looking sag

2. Always have a pencil handy or round knife handle to use to add sag as needed by pressing gently down on top links.

3. Focus very carefully on the front sprocket so the links fit right into the teeth. I trial fit the tracks and the front sprocket so they fit right in nice and tight. Its hard to tell from the photgraph but you can look for yourself at your effort and focus on this next time.

4. I assume you are using normal glue and not superglue. My suggestion is to experiment with your spare links to actually see how long you have to play around with the links and get a feel for how they work. I think you would be surprised.

Hang in there you done good.

I love doing these now and after my first attempt I never thought I would say that. LOL

If you need more help or guidance let me know. I have spent hours working out how to do these successfully.

Regards

Fordboy

Thanks for the advise, Fordboy. The links are small, that's for sure.
Yes, I'm going to put on the side fenders, so most of the sag will be covered.

May I ask you what type (brand) of glue you use.
I used Tamyia thin glue. But I guess there is some better alternatives out there... (Which takes a bit longer to cure).

Hi Norseman
I use Revell Contacta Professional it comes in a blue bottle with a needle applicator love the stuff. Its great for individual tracks. Try it if you can get it and try experimenting with your spare tracks. A bottle last ages.

You have at least 40 or so minutes before it really starts to cure but from 15 minutes onwards is a graet time to pick up the length of track and work it arouund wheels etc. I have a jig set up to keep the tracks straight as I set up a run.

Good luck.

Need more help just contact me.

Warmest regards from the Land Downunder
Where the Hobbits rule

Fordboy

I use Revell Contacta Professional too. You have plenty of time left to finish the job. I just love those Indy Tracks you know. You can easily achieve the same results that you have with MK or Friuls. I have to admit that they are often better detailed but they are more expensive

You're doing a great job so keep it up!

Groetjes Jurjen

Hi all...
Norseman, congrats on your beautifully done first with the attempt. I still remember when my first attempt with individual track links (which was panther aus G)..i'm lucky the track is not that small..

but my first dealing with small track link was the Alan Grille M..it was small and frustrating track link....end up i got fed-up and got my self MK track instead.

i used revell contacta too ... and i love this stuff.

Norseman, another glue you might consider is Testors Liquid. Basically the one with the brush in the cap. I have used this and it gives you a longer working time. I wait until I can pick one end of a track section up and the whole thing will stay together. Makes for some great sag effect. Once on the model. Push and prod for the final result you are after, let it cure and then you can take it off for future painting. Just my .02 cents worth. Good luck on the rest of your build. looks good so far, even with the blurry pic. "Q"