What do you all think so far? There are a few thinkg that still have to be done, but will have to wait unitl time and money allow.
Constructive Feedback
For in-progress or completed build photos. Give and get contructive feedback!
For in-progress or completed build photos. Give and get contructive feedback!
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M163A1 Vulcan
Darktrooper
Delaware, United States
Joined: November 05, 2004
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Joined: November 05, 2004
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Armorama: 351 posts
Posted: Saturday, April 23, 2005 - 07:06 AM UTC
Sabot
Joined: December 18, 2001
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Posted: Saturday, April 23, 2005 - 07:25 AM UTC
Just a couple of painting issues. The 20mm boxes on the top are normally black. The water cans for a vehicle of that era are either black plastic (older) or tan plastic (newer). Both colors were in use when the Vulcan was painted in the NATO 3-color (mid 90s). The cans also have some visible seam lines on them.
A lot of our plastic canvas covers are also an olive green (shade more grey that the forest green you're using).
Another item that is not your fault, but rather Italeri's is that the black out drive light (the one headlight with a small hood-like protrusion) was molded upside down. It is on the driver's side and visible in the bottom photo. The semi-circular hood should be on the top of the light assembly.
Road wheels on these vehicles were normally left all green by the time this pattern was in use. You can also tell that you didn't paint the inside of the inner road wheels, I would have had some grey or black with weathering in there to represent the worn down metal.
The left taillight looks crocked, but I really can't tell.
A lot of our plastic canvas covers are also an olive green (shade more grey that the forest green you're using).
Another item that is not your fault, but rather Italeri's is that the black out drive light (the one headlight with a small hood-like protrusion) was molded upside down. It is on the driver's side and visible in the bottom photo. The semi-circular hood should be on the top of the light assembly.
Road wheels on these vehicles were normally left all green by the time this pattern was in use. You can also tell that you didn't paint the inside of the inner road wheels, I would have had some grey or black with weathering in there to represent the worn down metal.
The left taillight looks crocked, but I really can't tell.
keenan
Indiana, United States
Joined: October 16, 2002
KitMaker: 5,272 posts
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Joined: October 16, 2002
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Posted: Saturday, April 23, 2005 - 07:26 AM UTC
AJ,
Good build. I have a few pointers, maybe nit picks, that I think will enhance what you have started:
There are serious seams on the jerry cans, esp. the ones in the first picture. You may be able to "pop" them off the model, clean them up and stick them back on.
Second, I would pick out the straps on the tarp in the first pic with a different shade of paint, to highlight them a bit.
Last, I would hit the periscopes around the driver's hatch with some Future to gloss them up a bit.
I hope this helps and thanks for sharing your model with us.
Shaun
Good build. I have a few pointers, maybe nit picks, that I think will enhance what you have started:
There are serious seams on the jerry cans, esp. the ones in the first picture. You may be able to "pop" them off the model, clean them up and stick them back on.
Second, I would pick out the straps on the tarp in the first pic with a different shade of paint, to highlight them a bit.
Last, I would hit the periscopes around the driver's hatch with some Future to gloss them up a bit.
I hope this helps and thanks for sharing your model with us.
Shaun
Darktrooper
Delaware, United States
Joined: November 05, 2004
KitMaker: 581 posts
Armorama: 351 posts
Joined: November 05, 2004
KitMaker: 581 posts
Armorama: 351 posts
Posted: Saturday, April 23, 2005 - 07:56 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Just a couple of painting issues. The 20mm boxes on the top are normally black. The water cans for a vehicle of that era are either black plastic (older) or tan plastic (newer). Both colors were in use when the Vulcan was painted in the NATO 3-color (mid 90s). The cans also have some visible seam lines on them.
A lot of our plastic canvas covers are also an olive green (shade more grey that the forest green you're using).
Another item that is not your fault, but rather Italeri's is that the black out drive light (the one headlight with a small hood-like protrusion) was molded upside down. It is on the driver's side and visible in the bottom photo. The semi-circular hood should be on the top of the light assembly.
Road wheels on these vehicles were normally left all green by the time this pattern was in use. You can also tell that you didn't paint the inside of the inner road wheels, I would have had some grey or black with weathering in there to represent the worn down metal.
The left taillight looks crocked, but I really can't tell.
I noticed that about the B/O drive too, the instructions show it the right side up! Yes the taillight is crooked, Italieri Strikes Again......
As for the road wheels the reference picture I have shows some of the roadwheels having black paint on them, as well as the base green.
Posted: Saturday, April 23, 2005 - 08:30 AM UTC
A J, My first impression was of a model painted with one color green, a bit to glossy, and no detail ( like the tarp straps, the jerrycans etc.) painting.
Right, now that the RRB bit is aside, for the suggestions. The seamlines have already been mentioned, but I would paint the tarp's and camo sheets etc. in different shades of green and khaki, to add interrest and variety.
And just a question rather than a nitpick, did the Italeri kit come with the external fuel tanks or not? The Academy kit did, I used them on mine, aswel as the flotation sides, but finished it in a Vietnam finish, without the radar. Not sure if that was correct, but I thought it looked good. ( This was a few years ago...)
There's a pic in my gallery, here https://gallery.kitmaker.net/data/500/5164DSCF2156.JPG
Cheers
Henk
Right, now that the RRB bit is aside, for the suggestions. The seamlines have already been mentioned, but I would paint the tarp's and camo sheets etc. in different shades of green and khaki, to add interrest and variety.
And just a question rather than a nitpick, did the Italeri kit come with the external fuel tanks or not? The Academy kit did, I used them on mine, aswel as the flotation sides, but finished it in a Vietnam finish, without the radar. Not sure if that was correct, but I thought it looked good. ( This was a few years ago...)
There's a pic in my gallery, here https://gallery.kitmaker.net/data/500/5164DSCF2156.JPG
Cheers
Henk
Darktrooper
Delaware, United States
Joined: November 05, 2004
KitMaker: 581 posts
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Joined: November 05, 2004
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Posted: Saturday, April 23, 2005 - 09:05 AM UTC
Quoted Text
A J, My first impression was of a model painted with one color green, a bit to glossy, and no detail ( like the tarp straps, the jerrycans etc.) painting.
Right, now that the RRB bit is aside, for the suggestions. The seamlines have already been mentioned, but I would paint the tarp's and camo sheets etc. in different shades of green and khaki, to add interrest and variety.
And just a question rather than a nitpick, did the Italeri kit come with the external fuel tanks or not? The Academy kit did, I used them on mine, aswel as the flotation sides, but finished it in a Vietnam finish, without the radar. Not sure if that was correct, but I thought it looked good. ( This was a few years ago...)
There's a pic in my gallery, here https://gallery.kitmaker.net/data/500/5164DSCF2156.JPG
Cheers
Henk
the model is painted in flat colors, is it possible that the flash on the camera imparted the glossy look?
This is not a Vietnam war vehicle kit, so no, it didn't come with the external fuel tanks. This vehicle is depicting one that was stationed in Germany in 1987.
I've already corrected the water cans and the ammo cans, and soon I'll repaint the three largest tarps in flat olive.
Darktrooper
Delaware, United States
Joined: November 05, 2004
KitMaker: 581 posts
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Joined: November 05, 2004
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Armorama: 351 posts
Posted: Saturday, April 23, 2005 - 10:46 AM UTC
This kit was the Italieri kit, and more suited to the late 80's early nineties. In addition has a few inaccuarcies, such as the wrong way blackout drive light. It was quick and fun to build. I'd recommend the Academy kit if you wanted to do the Nam version.
I chose the medium green for the base color on the advice of Gino Q, since I wanted a used look to the track. That is also why I have used field drab for the brown color instead of the NATO brown. the entire vehicle was drybrushed with armor sand.
I chose the medium green for the base color on the advice of Gino Q, since I wanted a used look to the track. That is also why I have used field drab for the brown color instead of the NATO brown. the entire vehicle was drybrushed with armor sand.
Posted: Saturday, April 23, 2005 - 11:00 AM UTC
AJ is right, the Academy kit is better, it also gives you the choice to build a Vietnam version or a modern one.
There's also a lot of bits and pieces in the Academy kit which fill the bits drawer out nicely, although I was stumped by one piece, which I think might be an incomplete TOW lancher, but hey, what do I know about modern armour... The kit also comes with indy links, and the more I talk about it, the more I feel like doing another one, but better this time. Go for it James
https://gallery.kitmaker.net/data/500/5164DSCF2156.JPG
Cheers
Henk
There's also a lot of bits and pieces in the Academy kit which fill the bits drawer out nicely, although I was stumped by one piece, which I think might be an incomplete TOW lancher, but hey, what do I know about modern armour... The kit also comes with indy links, and the more I talk about it, the more I feel like doing another one, but better this time. Go for it James
https://gallery.kitmaker.net/data/500/5164DSCF2156.JPG
Cheers
Henk
Red4
California, United States
Joined: April 01, 2002
KitMaker: 4,287 posts
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Joined: April 01, 2002
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Posted: Saturday, April 23, 2005 - 03:08 PM UTC
AJ, something else you may want to look at doing is using a wash on all of those bolts on the roadwheels, sprockets and idler wheels. It would make them stand out better and break up the green a little bit. Also in pics #3 and 4 your track pads look as though they were painted a rust color like the tracks themselves. They should be black. You could drybrush them with a dark gray once painted black, and this will help bring them out. Thanks for sharing. "Q"
straightedge
Ohio, United States
Joined: January 18, 2004
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Joined: January 18, 2004
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Posted: Monday, April 25, 2005 - 12:33 AM UTC
The others pretty much covered everything outside of watching the directions, always try to find a real subject to look at when your building a model, cause these model company's seem to always have you put parts on backwards, if you don't watch them.
Especially the hitches, or hooks, but it can be any other small parts to, as you found out.
Kerry
Especially the hitches, or hooks, but it can be any other small parts to, as you found out.
Kerry
USArmy2534
Indiana, United States
Joined: January 28, 2004
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Posted: Monday, April 25, 2005 - 04:05 AM UTC
Is it just me or are the Jerry cans of the German kind?
Other than the above comments, it looks good.
Jeff
Other than the above comments, it looks good.
Jeff
ptruhe
Texas, United States
Joined: March 05, 2003
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Joined: March 05, 2003
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Posted: Monday, April 25, 2005 - 05:38 AM UTC
You're a braver man than me. I nearly finished the same kit but it's in the parts bin after the tracks drove me nuts. Should have test fitted before gluing the sprockets.
Looks good to me. I'd hit any strap with a good pale olive drab. They always fade alot.
I think you might have the front tow hooks mounts on backwards. The axis should be perpendicular to the hull.
Paul
Looks good to me. I'd hit any strap with a good pale olive drab. They always fade alot.
I think you might have the front tow hooks mounts on backwards. The axis should be perpendicular to the hull.
Paul
Darktrooper
Delaware, United States
Joined: November 05, 2004
KitMaker: 581 posts
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Joined: November 05, 2004
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Posted: Monday, April 25, 2005 - 05:49 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Is it just me or are the Jerry cans of the German kind?
Other than the above comments, it looks good.
Jeff
No, the cans are correct. they look exactly like the ones that are in my HMMWV at my reserve unit.
Paul, the tracks gave me fits too, I ended just glueing the individual tracks to the sprockets.