I agree w/Gino on this one, the glue does tend to give it some texture, but not enough. Look at us, trying anything and everything to get something right until we are satisfied, and thats not easy in our hobby. :-)

Here you have the results of the "home made" anti slip.
They are more apparent now with the paint
Bradley Anti Slip

Hi Gino,
Is this the product you have mentioned?


Thanks.

Hi Guys!

As an alternative method I still spray "MR. SURFACE" through a Badger Airbrush at High pressure.
I think it looks more relatistic on Tanks with a "less" rough texture like the Leopard 2 and Chally 2.
Being the first try to upload photos, I hope this works.

[




Cheers

Okay...now I know how it works


[img]http://

Cheers
Christopher

Here are some samples, mostly Leo 2


[img]http:// [img]http:// [img]http:// [img]http:// [img]http://

Cheers
christopher

Sweet Christopher !

What is the first build you've shown ?

What did you use for antislip texture ?

Cheers

Paul

Yo Paul !

The first pic is a Tamiya Chally 2
The next is a Danish Leo 2A5 Tamiya/HobbyBoss being masked before adding the texture.
Next two show the final result on this one.
Then there is a Tamiya German Leo 2A5 already airbrushed, as you see you'll have to look real close to notice anything. Just like the real thing!
The last one is a Tamiya 2A6 with Perfect Scale engine and with Pro Art Model side skirts slightly weathered, so you can make out the anti-slip areas.
With the Leo 2's I sand down the existing surface to get the blank rims after the texture has been applied, this is a very distinctive feature (especially when wet) on the real Tanks.

I use a Badger 150 airbrush at high pressure with a medium size needle.
Then I mix MR SURFACE 500 or 1000 with a little turpentine or so and start spraying the masked areas.
Mr Surface has a tendency to dry rather fast, so all I do is keep deluting what every is left in the airbrush until I would have to add some more MR SURFACE.
At this point I just add turpentine to spray out all contents and to clean the nozzle when I reach the end of each filling.
Then I start all over again.
MR SURFACE has the tendency to "smoothen" a bit while drying, so sometimes I have to repeat this procedure once more after the first layer is set to bring it up to strength.

The Surface of a Leclerc would be rougher, so I mask everything as usual, mix Tamiya Putty with liquid glue, dip a old brim paintbrush into it and then "tap" the surface with it.
After that I spray an extra layer (as described above) over that area and the result is a not too, but visibly more rough of a coating.

Hope I have been able to help U!

Cheers
Christopher

Thanks Christopher !

I'm going to try that on one of my Leopards I think

Mr Surfacer sounds like it is the go. Although I think I will get another compressor for my Iwata Air-brush.

BTW: your work looks really nice. Congrats !!

Cheers

Paul

Hi Guys;

There is another method that has some merit, its called Chinchilla Sand, and there is an Excellent How To in Abrams Squad #15 used on A Merkava Mk;2D ! IMHO after reading the article, I think this Method looks more in-scale for the anti-skid surface used on Merkava's ! the rust-O-Leum product is nice if you want A real tite pattern on the surface that some vehicles have, Now; The One draw back problem is that it requires A lot of Masking on the vehicle; But, its Worth it !!!

CHEERS; MIKE.