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StuG III and how to ensure consistency in
mikado
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Singapore / 新加坡
Joined: July 10, 2005
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Posted: Thursday, March 02, 2006 - 07:03 AM UTC
I recently bought my firsrt PE + Tamiya german tank and I was all excited about it...steering clear of those trumpeter kit for a while......

I wanted this tank to be show-case so I took my old tiran 5 to repaint it... My earlier post of the Tiran 5 was in-fact a test vehicle for this stuG III....I really had a fun time with that old vehicle.....

But disaster struck just too early in this stuG III built...I screw up the paint to thinner ratio again,.....and the paint actually dried before it reaches the model during my air-brushing......and lumped of paint appear on the model......

I really hate myself for my impatience....all my hard work in construction is covered by these dried paint now.....this is a costly mistake...(It's a tamiya kit + PE set ).....

I need help....how to remove this dried lumped paint, you can see it in the first picture on the left fender is the most obvious....

And as always, comments and suggestions are always appreciated......










Sticky
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Vermont, United States
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Posted: Thursday, March 02, 2006 - 07:10 AM UTC
If it is tamiya acrylic paint, then spray it with windex, let it sit, then rinse it off under kewl water. If it is enamel paint spray it with oven cleaning and then rinse off. Neither will totaly strip the kit, but they are usually good enough to start over.
Grumpyoldman
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Florida, United States
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Posted: Thursday, March 02, 2006 - 07:15 AM UTC
Perhaps all is not as bad as it seems.
Just wondering what kind of paint you used? If you used enamels, an old trick is to spray a little thinner over it, and help it level out. key word is LITTLE, and a LITTLE at a time. If you used acrylics, sorry can't help there as I very rarely use them.
But again, all may not be lost..... try to work your error into a plus, and consider the dried paint areas as a pre-weathered area, and work you weathering from there, when the time comes. No need to add more dirt to the fenders, a little dry-brushing with the right colors will blend it all together.
3442
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Quebec, Canada
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Posted: Thursday, March 02, 2006 - 07:29 AM UTC
looks perfect on the picture... but if you want to fix the imperfections try using a very soft sand paper and gently sanding it flat... then re-spray a ligh coat of paint
even if the colors are a little of afterwards, no big deal, weathering will fix that.

or strip it with windex, mr. mean green or amonia...

Frank
mikado
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Singapore / 新加坡
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Posted: Thursday, March 02, 2006 - 07:37 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Just wondering what kind of paint you used?



I am using Gunze Mr color paint and I believe it is laquer based paint....

What can I use to remove the dried paint for laquer based paint ?
generalzod
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Posted: Monday, March 06, 2006 - 05:14 AM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

Just wondering what kind of paint you used?



I am using Gunze Mr color paint and I believe it is laquer based paint....

What can I use to remove the dried paint for laquer based paint ?


I thought Gunze Sango paint was acrylic?
mikado
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Singapore / 新加坡
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Posted: Monday, March 06, 2006 - 05:36 AM UTC

Quoted Text

I thought Gunze Sango paint was acrylic?


Hi all,

Gunze Mr color is laquer...the other gunze "Aque.."...not sure the spelling is actually acrylic....

Over the weekend, I managed to add in the wash for this model....

I used raw umber which is a color I am familar with....or actually the only color that I know of...

For green vehicle, I know I can use raw rumber and a blue artise oil for wash....how about desert scheme vehicle ???

1) Is there any other color other than raw umber that I can use for wash/filter of a desert scheme vehicle ?

BTW, thanks to all who give advise on how to solve the dried lump paint...for this model...I planned to cheat....there is some spare track link and according to the instruction sheet, it can be placed anywhere.....so guess where it will be going....

2) 2nd new questions.....I plan to do paint chip with vallejo paint use dark brown...I tried it on an old model..it really tough....how long (much time ?)in average do one do paint chipping....and usually which portion of the tank does one start chipping first ?

3) 3rd new questions, can I do another wash with raw umber again after the paint chip has dried ? or will the acrylic paint will be dissolve by the turpentine ?

Please comment freely....honest, constructive feedback is always appreciated






mikado
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Singapore / 新加坡
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Posted: Sunday, March 12, 2006 - 08:11 AM UTC
Hi all,

I added in thre track...did some paint chipping and some rust streak....and below is an update...

Looking for comment for improvement....not particularly happy with the rust streak....so any comment to correct it will be welcome...

will add in the mud and dust next....

Thanks .....







Donald99
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Hong Kong S.A.R. / 繁體
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Posted: Monday, March 13, 2006 - 08:34 AM UTC
Just my thought:

1) I use Burnt Sienna too.
2) chipping at the exposed corners; along the path of loading and unloading supply, ammo or equipnments; where the crews get on and off the vehicle; and where minor collison occurs.
3) acrylic paint doesn't dissolve in turpentine.

Don't forget to paint the straps for the wooden jack block and weather the decals and tools too.

EDIT: Haven't got a chance to go to LHS yet.
umustb
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Singapore / 新加坡
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Posted: Monday, March 13, 2006 - 04:09 PM UTC
It's looking rather good! Good job on the little weathering too.

I would say, maybe you can try weathering the decals a little more. They look too new for the StuG. Also, don't forget the straps like what Donald said. Do keep us posted on further progress..
mikado
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Singapore / 新加坡
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Posted: Tuesday, March 14, 2006 - 03:06 PM UTC
Hi Donald and JM,

Thanks for the tips....

One questions...how do you weather the decal ? I try to wash it with raw umber not there is no effect....

should I mist some earth over it ?
Donald99
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Hong Kong S.A.R. / 繁體
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Posted: Tuesday, March 14, 2006 - 04:08 PM UTC
Mike,

I can't check your photos right now and I think there is something wrong with the gallery.

Anyway if you have sealed the decal with a clear coat then you can always wipe off the weathering if you don't like the effect. Try putting some thinned oil above the decal and wipe it downwards with a cotton bud in a vertical stoke. If you like what it looks like do the same either side of the decal or even the whole vehicle to blend in. Perhaps you can do some trial somewhere else to get the feel of it first.
Snake-NL
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Noord-Brabant, Netherlands
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Posted: Tuesday, March 14, 2006 - 04:48 PM UTC
wow that is a great looking tank you have there good paint job.

How did you made the little rusty spots on the tank?
I have the stug 4 and i still have to wheater it.

and what is everybody's secret about the stickers (logo's etc.)
When i put them on my models i have ugly borders around them
Sticky
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Vermont, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, March 14, 2006 - 05:55 PM UTC
Looks very nice! One small detail though that you missed. The loaders MG sheild will not stay in the upright position, unless the front hatch is open. there is a hook and eye latch that engages the sheild. It is actually the hatch that hold the sheild in position.

Keep up the good works!
mikado
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Singapore / 新加坡
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Posted: Tuesday, March 14, 2006 - 08:20 PM UTC

Quoted Text

One small detail though that you missed. The loaders MG sheild will not stay in the upright position, unless the front hatch is open. there is a hook and eye latch that engages the sheild. It is actually the hatch that hold the sheild in position.

Keep up the good works!


OH NO.......John.....the hatch is already glue tight and there is no way I can open it up now...the only thing I can do now is to place the MG shield in a sleeping position....which I do not like....maybe for this mistake....I should buy another Stug III to.....

Thanks for the pointer though....

Paul...for the rusty spot, I paint them with Acrylic brown black paint...me still learning how to do that to make it look good. If you take a really hard look, you can see the rear of my stug looks like a face full of acnes....not chip paints.....hee...hee...

And Donald...you technique sounds really interesting....I am going to try it out this weekend....
dvsmmh
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Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: February 20, 2006
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Posted: Tuesday, March 14, 2006 - 08:29 PM UTC

Quoted Text

I recently bought my firsrt PE + Tamiya german tank and I was all excited about it...steering clear of those trumpeter kit for a while......

I wanted this tank to be show-case so I took my old tiran 5 to repaint it... My earlier post of the Tiran 5 was in-fact a test vehicle for this stuG III....I really had a fun time with that old vehicle.....

But disaster struck just too early in this stuG III built...I screw up the paint to thinner ratio again,.....and the paint actually dried before it reaches the model during my air-brushing......and lumped of paint appear on the model......

I really hate myself for my impatience....all my hard work in construction is covered by these dried paint now.....this is a costly mistake...(It's a tamiya kit + PE set ).....

I need help....how to remove this dried lumped paint, you can see it in the first picture on the left fender is the most obvious....

And as always, comments and suggestions are always appreciated......

Try window cleaner with amonia, Windex (in USA) brand works well. Just spray it on and wait a few minutes and rinse it off with wamr water. Usually no scrubbing is required which will keep the PE from being knocked off. This only works if you have not yet overcoated with a clear lacquer or enamel.

Good luck









umustb
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Singapore / 新加坡
Joined: April 27, 2005
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Posted: Wednesday, March 15, 2006 - 09:34 AM UTC

Quoted Text

and what is everybody's secret about the stickers (logo's etc.)
When i put them on my models i have ugly borders around them


Hi there Paul... to minimize those ugly "borders" around your decals, it is always best to try cutting as close to your decals as possible (you don't need those transparent "borders").

Before applying your decals onto your model, spray on a layer of gloss onto the area where your decals will be (sometimes it's best to gloss the whole model, it's your preference). Once the glossed area is dry, put on your decals. After that, seal off your decals by spraying a layer of dull/flat coat and there you have it.... no more ugly borders.

HTH.
Donald99
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Hong Kong S.A.R. / 繁體
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Posted: Wednesday, March 15, 2006 - 11:22 AM UTC
I will go along with JM too for most cases.

I also read that some specialist decal manufacturers manged to produce their decals with a tapered edge. That is the same thickness as the decal at the edge of the decal and becomes thinner towards the edge of the carrying film. If you cut the transparent film off then the edges will become more obvious. Porbably a piece of useless information to you since I can't remember which manufacturer's product are they talking about.
mikado
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Singapore / 新加坡
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Posted: Tuesday, March 21, 2006 - 09:51 PM UTC
Guys...need your honest feedback here...something very wrong has happen....I added in the mud, spray flat earth on the mud....then spray buff to the super structure to effect mud... but the model trun out to be a real disaster....

The first picture is the before dust and the second one is after.....and I don't use pigment or chalk at all...simply because I don;t have them.....

What did I do wrong ?

















Pedro
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Wojewodztwo Pomorskie, Poland
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Posted: Wednesday, March 22, 2006 - 12:32 AM UTC
I think it isn't looking bad at all.
Well it looks great in fact. I know some modelers do something like that on purpose, to tone down the paint chips and such. It is called "glaze" I think.

Cheers
Pedro
HILBERT
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Zuid-Holland, Netherlands
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Posted: Wednesday, March 22, 2006 - 12:40 AM UTC
I don't know what is wrong about it. It looks just good. Better then I can make believe me.

Hilbert
beepboop
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England - South East, United Kingdom
Joined: May 23, 2004
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Posted: Wednesday, March 22, 2006 - 03:17 AM UTC
Hmm, I wish all my "disasters" would turn out like yours! Hell, i wish my successes would look like this! It looks like a fine piece of work to me! And nice photos, too.



mikado
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Singapore / 新加坡
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Posted: Wednesday, March 22, 2006 - 06:51 AM UTC

Quoted Text


I know some modelers do something like that on purpose, to tone down the paint chips and such. It is called "glaze" I think.



Hi all,

I think I just found the word to express my fustration...don't you think the "contrast" is completely gone ? Well there isn't much to start with but now it is completely gone in the picture !!!


Pedro...what is glaze in detail ? Do you have a link I can follow up with ?
Lucky
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Wisconsin, United States
Joined: July 19, 2005
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Posted: Tuesday, March 28, 2006 - 02:12 AM UTC
I wouldn't worry about it man. Your paint job looks fine to me. Maybe he was refering to filters- extremely thin coats of paint to tone down contrast and add other visual effects to the model. MIG has an article on ML.
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