Edit : Ok , so far it is only one bin, not binS from the title, sorry for that.
I am not a well man. Most folks would let the DML kit parts go after they found out there are supposed to be 2 rows of shells or at least just built the things closed up.
and
But as I've said here before, I am not a well man.
Enter Lion Roar's etch set for the Nashorn and the 50 piece+ ammo bins and the AFV CLub brass ammo.
After my inital complete and total failures at soldering, a friend showed me the ropes and I am at least able to solder as well as a room full of retarded chimpanzees.
This is 'only' 25 of the total parts. 3 pieces for each warhead end, 3 pieces for each butt end and a one-piece box so far.
I still have to make the roof, the folding front, hinges, latches and then get myself a lobotomy...
Mike
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Not a well man, soldered Nashorn ammo bins
MLD
Vermont, United States
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Posted: Sunday, April 09, 2006 - 12:50 AM UTC
Posted: Sunday, April 09, 2006 - 12:59 AM UTC
I'm quite speechless..
Hmm... Lionroar you say? I have a Nashorn in the stash, should I?
Impressive job so far Mike.
Cheers
Henk
Hmm... Lionroar you say? I have a Nashorn in the stash, should I?
Impressive job so far Mike.
Cheers
Henk
MLD
Vermont, United States
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Posted: Sunday, April 09, 2006 - 05:21 AM UTC
Quoted Text
I'm quite speechless..
Hmm... Lionroar you say? I have a Nashorn in the stash, should I?
Abso-frigging-lutely!! It's a great set.
If you'd like, drop me a PM with your email and I'll shoot you a scan of the instructions so you know what you're getting into.
Think Aber-Lite, all the teeny tiny insanity without ALL the teeny tiny insanity.. :-)
They do give you parts to replace the air intakes on the hull sides, fenders, internal boxes and bits, but nothing for the travel lock or the radio.
Heads and shoulders above the Eduard set, and since Aber hasn't done a Nashorn set, yet..
You do have to be careful, there are a few bends you have to make AWAY from the fold lines. It seems odd, as if the lines were a standard, "Fold this way" sort of thing, but overall the detail is great.
Quoted Text
Impressive job so far Mike.
Thanks, there is still plenty left for me to mess up.. :-)
Sticky
Vermont, United States
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Posted: Sunday, April 09, 2006 - 05:30 AM UTC
Very Sharp! Hehe a very sick man indeed! Once bitten by the solder bug, there is no turning back. Bring on those folding doors!!! (BTW can they be made wordable? :-) :-) :-) )
MLD
Vermont, United States
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Posted: Sunday, April 09, 2006 - 07:02 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Very Sharp! Hehe a very sick man indeed! Once bitten by the solder bug, there is no turning back. Bring on those folding doors!!! (BTW can they be made wordable? :-) :-) :-) )
Thanks, it is often a very fine line between a hobby and a mental illness!
I don't think they can be made workable, that would be an Aber set ..
Now I just have to get a better temp-controlled soldering iron if I'm going to do the REALLY tiny stuff.
You KNEW this whole thing was just an excuse to buy more toys, didn'y you? :-)
Posted: Sunday, April 09, 2006 - 07:15 AM UTC
Why not just glue them? Or is that cheating.. :-)
ShermiesRule
Michigan, United States
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Posted: Sunday, April 09, 2006 - 08:26 AM UTC
I'm not a PE expert but I thought one used CA glue. I didn't know you needed to solder PE
MLD
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Posted: Sunday, April 09, 2006 - 04:10 PM UTC
You can CA glue PE, and have to use it to attach the PE to the plastic.
My problem with CA is that is has almost no shear strength. I could just see taking the ammo in and out resulting in re-re-regluing the brackets.
I've always wanted to see the old superglue commercial with the guy hanging from his helmet re-done with a little old lady walking up and giving him a poke in the chest with her cane and the workman falling right off!
Soldering is infinitely stronger, especially for those box edge pieces where the two sides join at a 90 degree angle and there is little contact surface.
Plus how cool is joining stuff together with molten metal?!?
Mike
My problem with CA is that is has almost no shear strength. I could just see taking the ammo in and out resulting in re-re-regluing the brackets.
I've always wanted to see the old superglue commercial with the guy hanging from his helmet re-done with a little old lady walking up and giving him a poke in the chest with her cane and the workman falling right off!
Soldering is infinitely stronger, especially for those box edge pieces where the two sides join at a 90 degree angle and there is little contact surface.
Plus how cool is joining stuff together with molten metal?!?
Mike
ShermiesRule
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Posted: Sunday, April 09, 2006 - 11:16 PM UTC
Maybe you can tack the shape together with CA and solder it while partially assembled?
BTW the brass shells look awesome. Looks well worth the trouble
BTW the brass shells look awesome. Looks well worth the trouble
Hohenstaufen
England - South East, United Kingdom
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Posted: Sunday, April 09, 2006 - 11:29 PM UTC
Just looking at it makes me want to go & lie down! People who can cope with PE on this level have my upmost respect - but this also reinforces my belief that it's not for me!
MLD
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Posted: Monday, April 10, 2006 - 12:08 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Just looking at it makes me want to go & lie down! People who can cope with PE on this level have my upmost respect - but this also reinforces my belief that it's not for me!
It is not for everyone, but if someone as clumsy as I am can do it, ANYONE can!
Before this, I was a clumsy PE gluer for a very long time.
When I started, I soldered about as well as a room full of retarded chimps. Actually that's more of an insult to retarded chimps...
A friend showed me all the things I was doing wrong and viola (or some other large stringed instrument) PE soldering.
As for tacking things together with CA, I don't.
I was never able to neatly CA box edges together, and had even less luck on open boxes where my gobs of superglue would show.
I work on a large sheet of glass and use the edge of my etch folding tool as a square vertical to push against. Radio shack sells a 4 piece tool set with a couple of probes and a notched tip heatsink probe that are very useful for holding pieces in place as well.
All this from a guy whose last soldering experience was 20+years ago in middle school (8th grade) where he got a D in Shop class for the metalworking/soldering quarter!
So, seriously if I can do it, you can too!
If you want to that is...
Mike
pzkfwmk6
Pennsylvania, United States
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Posted: Thursday, April 20, 2006 - 03:45 PM UTC
If you really want to get fancy, get yourself a resistance soldering set. Once you get the hang of that you'll never touch CA glue again for brass to brass joints.
3442
Quebec, Canada
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Posted: Saturday, April 22, 2006 - 01:20 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Soldering is infinitely stronger, especially for those box edge pieces where the two sides join at a 90 degree angle and there is little contact surface.
Worst of it is that its addictive! I to got a D when time to soldier wire in workshop came.... i tried it after 2 years... and love it!
Something i love to use when soldering ( not always usefull, but very often) a solder-it lighter... I put for acid, then cut a peice of flux, ligh the lighted away from my piece so they dont blox away, and aproach.. voila, their soldiered.
Your boxes look great, good luck on the rest! I have my first am set ariving.. and its aber... lets hope i get lucky... iam practicing with the pe from the new premium elefant kit
Frank