this is my tamiya sherman finshed,ive add the equipment,snow,figs and decals since the last update of the sherman.
matt
Constructive Feedback
For in-progress or completed build photos. Give and get contructive feedback!
For in-progress or completed build photos. Give and get contructive feedback!
Hosted by Darren Baker, Dave O'Meara
1/35 sherman finshed
USMarine
Christchurch, New Zealand
Joined: September 17, 2005
KitMaker: 475 posts
Armorama: 259 posts
Joined: September 17, 2005
KitMaker: 475 posts
Armorama: 259 posts
Posted: Saturday, April 22, 2006 - 07:03 AM UTC
ShermiesRule
Michigan, United States
Joined: December 11, 2003
KitMaker: 5,409 posts
Armorama: 3,777 posts
Joined: December 11, 2003
KitMaker: 5,409 posts
Armorama: 3,777 posts
Posted: Saturday, April 22, 2006 - 07:41 AM UTC
Pictures aren't too great but two things that pop out at me
1) Decal film is visible
2) Tracks are not sitting on top of the return orllers and skids.
1) Decal film is visible
2) Tracks are not sitting on top of the return orllers and skids.
Gearbox
Ohio, United States
Joined: March 21, 2005
KitMaker: 52 posts
Armorama: 19 posts
Joined: March 21, 2005
KitMaker: 52 posts
Armorama: 19 posts
Posted: Saturday, April 22, 2006 - 08:05 AM UTC
The layout is good. Meaning the spacing of the equipment etc. A few things I noticed adding to what Shermie said:
You might want to look at the subject as "scale". Meaning its a lot smaller than the real thing. As a result the light reflectivity isn't the same. To mimic this there are a few techniques. The easiest is to spray the entire model with an olive drab and then highlight each individual panel with a lighter olive drab. This gives it a 3D look and mimics the full scale reflectivity. Its really easy to do and the results are dramatic.
Another way to do it is follow what Mig has been doing the past few years. That's a bit more complicated but the results are better. you can look into that here: http://ipmsstockholm.org/magazine/2003/01/stuff_eng_tech_afv_weathering.htm
Hope this is of some use.
Cheers!
You might want to look at the subject as "scale". Meaning its a lot smaller than the real thing. As a result the light reflectivity isn't the same. To mimic this there are a few techniques. The easiest is to spray the entire model with an olive drab and then highlight each individual panel with a lighter olive drab. This gives it a 3D look and mimics the full scale reflectivity. Its really easy to do and the results are dramatic.
Another way to do it is follow what Mig has been doing the past few years. That's a bit more complicated but the results are better. you can look into that here: http://ipmsstockholm.org/magazine/2003/01/stuff_eng_tech_afv_weathering.htm
Hope this is of some use.
Cheers!
INDIA11A
Ontario, Canada
Joined: January 09, 2005
KitMaker: 577 posts
Armorama: 446 posts
Joined: January 09, 2005
KitMaker: 577 posts
Armorama: 446 posts
Posted: Saturday, April 22, 2006 - 04:40 PM UTC
Try giving the model a wash and some light dry-brushing to give it depth. Did you use a gloss coat under your decals and then seal them? Greatly helps eliminate the "silvering" effect. The storage is nicely laid out up could use a wash(s) and dry-brushing. Nice to see Shermies here again.
Dee
California, United States
Joined: April 22, 2006
KitMaker: 118 posts
Armorama: 72 posts
Joined: April 22, 2006
KitMaker: 118 posts
Armorama: 72 posts
Posted: Thursday, May 18, 2006 - 07:28 AM UTC
I need to figure out how to get good decal application, a gloss coat and then sealant is the best way to make them look like they're real? What kind of seal? Is that the same as set?
goatmonkey
Connecticut, United States
Joined: June 10, 2005
KitMaker: 34 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Joined: June 10, 2005
KitMaker: 34 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Thursday, May 18, 2006 - 08:14 AM UTC
for decals, i usually apply them directly over the paint and dab on some microsol to make them conform to the surface. then flat-coat everything. seems to work great but i alse tend to cut off the clear film parts.
actually i haven't been using much in the way of decals lately unless i'm just doing an easy build. stenciling on whatever you were going to use decals on or just drawing it on with a brush cuts out the non-homogenous step.
actually i haven't been using much in the way of decals lately unless i'm just doing an easy build. stenciling on whatever you were going to use decals on or just drawing it on with a brush cuts out the non-homogenous step.
Dee
California, United States
Joined: April 22, 2006
KitMaker: 118 posts
Armorama: 72 posts
Joined: April 22, 2006
KitMaker: 118 posts
Armorama: 72 posts
Posted: Thursday, May 18, 2006 - 09:05 AM UTC
stenciling/freehanding decals?! oh my, what a task
puckhead
California, United States
Joined: December 27, 2005
KitMaker: 4 posts
Armorama: 4 posts
Joined: December 27, 2005
KitMaker: 4 posts
Armorama: 4 posts
Posted: Sunday, May 21, 2006 - 05:55 AM UTC
Sorry to be the bearer of bad news: The decals are not horizontal. As I recall, the real "Houston Kid II" was a 105mm Sherman, not a 76mm.