I’ve got a lot of work done on this last week.
The turret isn’t attached yet just sat it on for the shots.
I still need to do a few touch ups on the paint and add the markings as well as a few more pieces before doing the weathering.
I have a question about unit markings on the front of the vehicle. Should they go on the little round things the wheels fit next to or up where the armor starts to slant back? (Hope you guys can figure out what I mean.)
Anyway as all ways any questions comments or advice is welcome.
Campaigns
Where Armorama group builds can be discussed, organized, and updates posted.
Where Armorama group builds can be discussed, organized, and updates posted.
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Modern Armor M2A0 Updated
redneck
Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: June 06, 2005
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Joined: June 06, 2005
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Armorama: 384 posts
Posted: Sunday, May 07, 2006 - 08:32 PM UTC
jazza
Singapore / 新加坡
Joined: August 03, 2005
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Joined: August 03, 2005
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Posted: Monday, May 08, 2006 - 02:45 AM UTC
Ah nice to see the Bradley is coming along fine. Am no expert on this but im sure you will be hearing from the likes of Gino, EPI and Olivier in regards to your questions.
My suggestions is more around the painting. Do try to give the kit an overall wash.
Also i do believe you are missing the black out marker below your rear brake lights.
My suggestions is more around the painting. Do try to give the kit an overall wash.
Also i do believe you are missing the black out marker below your rear brake lights.
redneck
Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: June 06, 2005
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Joined: June 06, 2005
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Posted: Monday, May 08, 2006 - 03:48 AM UTC
Thanks Jazza.
You are correct about the black out marker. I believe there is one on the lights in the front as well. I’m going to do the unit markings with a small black marker pen and will be getting those lines at the same time.
I’m planing on trying a wash of buff (same color I used for dust inside) over it and then pinwash again over the bolts and edges for weathering.
I’m not entirely positive if it will workout or not. I’ve never really tried washes or weathering much before so its all new to me.
You are correct about the black out marker. I believe there is one on the lights in the front as well. I’m going to do the unit markings with a small black marker pen and will be getting those lines at the same time.
I’m planing on trying a wash of buff (same color I used for dust inside) over it and then pinwash again over the bolts and edges for weathering.
I’m not entirely positive if it will workout or not. I’ve never really tried washes or weathering much before so its all new to me.
HeavyArty
Florida, United States
Joined: May 16, 2002
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Joined: May 16, 2002
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Posted: Monday, May 08, 2006 - 04:02 AM UTC
Looks like it is coming along well. For the markings, they could be either place, it varies by unit. I would suggest getting some dry transfer lettering or generic decals to piece the markings together with. Hand-drawn ones never look straight enough. I used to do them, but was never satisfied with how they looked. Also, your antennas look black, they should be dark green.
Keep up the good work.
Keep up the good work.
jazza
Singapore / 新加坡
Joined: August 03, 2005
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Posted: Monday, May 08, 2006 - 04:54 AM UTC
Quoted Text
I’m not entirely positive if it will workout or not. I’ve never really tried washes or weathering much before so its all new to me.
Have a try on the belly of the hull and dont be discouraged when you first see the wash dry up and it looks like you've ruined it. The true effect comes out when you either apply a filter over it or dry brush over it. I used to be hesitant about doing it too but a flat looking model just didnt sit well with me either.
redneck
Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: June 06, 2005
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Joined: June 06, 2005
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Posted: Monday, May 08, 2006 - 05:28 PM UTC
Thanks Gino.
The markings will be for 24 ID 2nd battalion as Epi hade previously suggested.
I’ll check my spare box for extra decals that might work but I don’t think I’ll find what I need. I really don’t want to wait for them to be shipped out before continuing so I’ll probably try it by hand.
As for the antennas your right I made them black. I’ll fix it right away.
PS. Just wanted to let you know that I was able to find what I needed on the instructions you gave me the link to. I appreciate the help.
Jeremy as I’ve said I’m new to this. If I’m supposed to dry brush over the wash would I do that in the same color as the armor?
The markings will be for 24 ID 2nd battalion as Epi hade previously suggested.
I’ll check my spare box for extra decals that might work but I don’t think I’ll find what I need. I really don’t want to wait for them to be shipped out before continuing so I’ll probably try it by hand.
As for the antennas your right I made them black. I’ll fix it right away.
PS. Just wanted to let you know that I was able to find what I needed on the instructions you gave me the link to. I appreciate the help.
Jeremy as I’ve said I’m new to this. If I’m supposed to dry brush over the wash would I do that in the same color as the armor?
HeavyArty
Florida, United States
Joined: May 16, 2002
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Posted: Tuesday, May 09, 2006 - 03:21 AM UTC
Glad the instructions link helped out.
For the drybrushing, yes, you can use the base color to drybrush after a wash. You can also use a lighter or darker color to bring out the details. I like to use a slightly darker color on sand and other light paint jobs so it looks like discoloration from dirt and grime. Experiment and see what you like though. It makes your models come to life.
Good luck.
For the drybrushing, yes, you can use the base color to drybrush after a wash. You can also use a lighter or darker color to bring out the details. I like to use a slightly darker color on sand and other light paint jobs so it looks like discoloration from dirt and grime. Experiment and see what you like though. It makes your models come to life.
Good luck.
jazza
Singapore / 新加坡
Joined: August 03, 2005
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Posted: Tuesday, May 09, 2006 - 04:51 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Jeremy as I’ve said I’m new to this. If I’m supposed to dry brush over the wash would I do that in the same color as the armor?
As Gino mentioned, darker or lighter colours both work for raised panels / bolts. I too prefer darker colours on light coloured kits like the one you built for the same reasons that Gino mentioned.
For gaps etc, try doing a pin wash. Thats when you use a really fine brush and just touch the gaps. If your kit has had a clear gloss coat applied, artist oils mixed with turps will slide through these gaps with ease. If it spills over the gaps a little, dont worry as you can dry brush over it with the base colour to reduce the contrast a little. It gives it the same look of dirt and grime build up in these gaps.
Definitely experiment and refer to Fred's Article on Wash Techniques. I found it most useful while experimenting.
Good Luck!
redneck
Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: June 06, 2005
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Joined: June 06, 2005
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Posted: Tuesday, May 09, 2006 - 05:10 AM UTC
Thanks Guys and Thinks for the link Jeremy it will be a big help.
I’ll see if I can dig up any oil paint that’s close to the armor color.
I’ll see if I can dig up any oil paint that’s close to the armor color.
Epi
Texas, United States
Joined: December 22, 2001
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Posted: Tuesday, May 09, 2006 - 06:59 PM UTC
Red, the 24th had there bumper numbers on the two bins in the rear, the transmission covers in the front( the round humps) and a chevron on each side of the side armor and on on the rear ramp.
Jazza is gonna have to request a seperate Bradley folder for the campaign for as many Bradley's we have.
It's comeing along great JW. Just one tiny little thing. The front headlights, the turn signals, the are to yellow. They need to be more of an orange color. I usually use Clear Orange over silver for my front turn signals.
Jazza is gonna have to request a seperate Bradley folder for the campaign for as many Bradley's we have.
It's comeing along great JW. Just one tiny little thing. The front headlights, the turn signals, the are to yellow. They need to be more of an orange color. I usually use Clear Orange over silver for my front turn signals.
redneck
Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: June 06, 2005
KitMaker: 1,602 posts
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Joined: June 06, 2005
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Posted: Tuesday, May 09, 2006 - 07:18 PM UTC
Thanks Pete.
The front lights need a little touching up anyway so I’ll just add a little orange to the mix.
I think we should have just waited and had a bradley campaign. :-)
The front lights need a little touching up anyway so I’ll just add a little orange to the mix.
I think we should have just waited and had a bradley campaign. :-)
redneck
Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: June 06, 2005
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Joined: June 06, 2005
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Posted: Thursday, May 11, 2006 - 08:05 PM UTC
What do you guys think of the track link?
I’m experimenting on one of the links that get mounted on the hull and was wondering if it looked right. The rubber pars will still need painted and then I’ll probably add a sand colored wash to simulate dust.
So too shinny, not shinny enough, or just right?
Also I think it may be a little to light but not sure.
I’m experimenting on one of the links that get mounted on the hull and was wondering if it looked right. The rubber pars will still need painted and then I’ll probably add a sand colored wash to simulate dust.
So too shinny, not shinny enough, or just right?
Also I think it may be a little to light but not sure.
Epi
Texas, United States
Joined: December 22, 2001
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Posted: Thursday, May 11, 2006 - 08:14 PM UTC
JW,
Her is the front and rear spare track on the Bradley outside. It was just painted over when the track got painted.
And here are the tracks themselves:
Her is the front and rear spare track on the Bradley outside. It was just painted over when the track got painted.
And here are the tracks themselves:
Erik67
Buskerud, Norway
Joined: July 31, 2005
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Posted: Thursday, May 11, 2006 - 08:37 PM UTC
I agree with Pete. We use the same tracks on our CV 90 as used on the Bradley, and a fresh, new track link is covered in a very thick black paint (except for the rubber block).
Erik
Erik
redneck
Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: June 06, 2005
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Joined: June 06, 2005
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Posted: Thursday, May 11, 2006 - 08:49 PM UTC
Thanks Pete.
I’m trying to do this one like the tacks that are being used. I figure the plastic link would work better for experimenting then the rubber ones. I’ll paint back over it after I’m done.
Sorry should have pointed that out.
I already have those last pictures of the tracks from you but wouldn’t the effect on the tracks be deferent when operating in the sand? I’m thinking they would have far less rust and be a little shinier when they are continuously getting sandblasted in the desert?
Edit: and thank you to Erik. Mouse died on me while replaying so I missed your post.
I’m trying to do this one like the tacks that are being used. I figure the plastic link would work better for experimenting then the rubber ones. I’ll paint back over it after I’m done.
Sorry should have pointed that out.
I already have those last pictures of the tracks from you but wouldn’t the effect on the tracks be deferent when operating in the sand? I’m thinking they would have far less rust and be a little shinier when they are continuously getting sandblasted in the desert?
Edit: and thank you to Erik. Mouse died on me while replaying so I missed your post.
Epi
Texas, United States
Joined: December 22, 2001
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Joined: December 22, 2001
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Posted: Thursday, May 11, 2006 - 09:03 PM UTC
You are correct MR. JW. But there was still some moisture present out in the desert but not as bad as in the states. A good reference would be to pull up some pictures of the vehicles over in Ft. Irwin, CA (NTC).
redneck
Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: June 06, 2005
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Posted: Thursday, May 11, 2006 - 09:18 PM UTC
Alright then.
I know I have rust colored paint back here someplace. Once I find it I’ll try adding a little and see how it looks.
I know I have rust colored paint back here someplace. Once I find it I’ll try adding a little and see how it looks.
redneck
Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: June 06, 2005
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Joined: June 06, 2005
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Posted: Wednesday, May 17, 2006 - 05:17 PM UTC
Here are some new progress pictures.
The decals were made by Gino and were a big help.
The turrets weathered and I would really appreciate any comments on it. This what my first try and really didn’t know what I was doing so any advice would be helpful.
I’m hopping the next time I post pictures it will be of the finished kit. May be cutting it close to the line but I think I can do it by the deadline.
The decals were made by Gino and were a big help.
The turrets weathered and I would really appreciate any comments on it. This what my first try and really didn’t know what I was doing so any advice would be helpful.
I’m hopping the next time I post pictures it will be of the finished kit. May be cutting it close to the line but I think I can do it by the deadline.
Epi
Texas, United States
Joined: December 22, 2001
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Posted: Wednesday, May 17, 2006 - 05:59 PM UTC
Three words: "OUT FREAKIN STANDING!"
HeavyArty
Florida, United States
Joined: May 16, 2002
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Joined: May 16, 2002
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Posted: Wednesday, May 17, 2006 - 06:54 PM UTC
Looking great. Glad the decals worked out for you.
Tomek_K
Wojewodztwo Dolnoslaskie, Poland
Joined: August 12, 2005
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Joined: August 12, 2005
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Posted: Wednesday, May 17, 2006 - 10:55 PM UTC
Your Bradley looks nice Jacob.
Keep up the good work.
Keep up the good work.