Hi all,
Here is my latest Sherman Project. It is the older Tamiya M4A3 75w kit. This is actually a reclamation project....the lower hull, running gear, etc, all used to be part of a conversion that I've since torn apart. Since I still had the upper hull, turret, etc., I decided to give it new life. The only issues with it now are that I was unable to completely sand off all the mold seams on some suspension parts, wheels, etc., since they are all glued in place and tough to get to. I've therefore decided that this will be a kit where I'll experiment with some new construction and painting techniques.
As you can see, I've added all of the upper hull weld seams, the engine hatch rests, the thickened cheek bulge on the turret, cast texture on the transmission housing and turret, opened the driver/co-driver periscopes with scratchbuilt parts, added periscope guards (Italeri) to all periscopes, added the gunner's periscope inside its armored cover, added sandshield attachment strips, replaced all (forgot the engine access hatch, actually...) molded on grab handles with ones made from brass wire, barrel is by J. Rubio, added interior periscope for commander's hatch (Custom Dioramics), added the head pad inside the same hatch, scratched the track adjustment tool, got other tools from any/all sources, added straps for tools (index card), added parts to both sides of the exhaust deflector (copied on plastic sheet from Formations parts), added front tow hook parts and steps, and filled in the sponsons. Tracks at this point are the old Italeri ones, and they actually fit pretty well, though I may swap them out. Ugh. That's about it, though I'm sure I'm forgetting to mention something.
Anyway, enjoy. Comments welcome, of course, which is why I posted. Oh, I think I'm going to paint this in a worn whitewash scheme, as I've never done that before and thought I'd give it a go. Still have to add commander figure, .50 cal, and antenna, plus stowage.
Rob
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For in-progress or completed build photos. Give and get contructive feedback!
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Yet another Sherman (in progress)
hogarth
Maryland, United States
Joined: June 02, 2006
KitMaker: 672 posts
Armorama: 592 posts
Joined: June 02, 2006
KitMaker: 672 posts
Armorama: 592 posts
Posted: Thursday, April 26, 2007 - 06:50 AM UTC
hogarth
Maryland, United States
Joined: June 02, 2006
KitMaker: 672 posts
Armorama: 592 posts
Joined: June 02, 2006
KitMaker: 672 posts
Armorama: 592 posts
Posted: Thursday, April 26, 2007 - 10:20 PM UTC
One thing I forgot to mention is that I did not bother to update the suspension. Firstly, as already noted, it's already solidly glued in place to the hull. And, I plan on muddying up the suspension pretty well, so I didn't see the need to add little details like the 4 holes in the face of the bogies or the 3 bolts at the bogie bottoms. I'll save them for another Sherman project. I think, when this one is done, I'll be down to 15 to go.
Rob
Rob
Posted: Thursday, April 26, 2007 - 11:15 PM UTC
Hi Robert,
The production line is running at full speed then!!!!
This looks like another grand build, with a lot of time and care being taken on giving it a new lease of life.
Won't comment on the spec, don't know enough
Looks good so far.
Cheers
Al
The production line is running at full speed then!!!!
This looks like another grand build, with a lot of time and care being taken on giving it a new lease of life.
Won't comment on the spec, don't know enough
Looks good so far.
Cheers
Al
HONEYCUT
Victoria, Australia
Joined: May 07, 2003
KitMaker: 4,002 posts
Armorama: 2,947 posts
Joined: May 07, 2003
KitMaker: 4,002 posts
Armorama: 2,947 posts
Posted: Friday, April 27, 2007 - 05:10 AM UTC
Gday Robert
The check list looks pretty substantial
You have some seriously good parts just lying around!
One thing that has thrown me though, is the later style of crowbar holder. The angled holder at the bottom end in my eyes always seems to be facing the wrong way. I think it is on my Formations set also. I mean it won't prevent the bottom of the crowbar from sliding out when not tied down. It should be reversed with the hollow side facing into the tank? Dunno.
If you are experimenting with a whitewash, why not try white pastel chalk? Can be applied with IPA or water, and can be suitably rubbed to give the worn away look you after, and then sealed once you are happy. Especially good for traffiked areas, where it can be rubbed away like in reality. The good thing is that it is not permanent until it is sealed.
Keep the updates flowing mate, this may be the next Sherman for me yet
Cheers
Brad
The check list looks pretty substantial
You have some seriously good parts just lying around!
One thing that has thrown me though, is the later style of crowbar holder. The angled holder at the bottom end in my eyes always seems to be facing the wrong way. I think it is on my Formations set also. I mean it won't prevent the bottom of the crowbar from sliding out when not tied down. It should be reversed with the hollow side facing into the tank? Dunno.
If you are experimenting with a whitewash, why not try white pastel chalk? Can be applied with IPA or water, and can be suitably rubbed to give the worn away look you after, and then sealed once you are happy. Especially good for traffiked areas, where it can be rubbed away like in reality. The good thing is that it is not permanent until it is sealed.
Keep the updates flowing mate, this may be the next Sherman for me yet
Cheers
Brad
hogarth
Maryland, United States
Joined: June 02, 2006
KitMaker: 672 posts
Armorama: 592 posts
Joined: June 02, 2006
KitMaker: 672 posts
Armorama: 592 posts
Posted: Friday, April 27, 2007 - 04:54 PM UTC
Hey Brad,
Thanks for the advice.....I'll check out that one tool. I was using the Formations one as a guide (bought it at AMPS last week), but I'll check some photos and see and get back to you on this thread about which way it should be oriented.
As for the pastel chalk, perhaps I will explore that route. I've been reading all the articles I can find on whitewash, and will try to pick whatever one seems to suit me best.
Not sure when I'll get to the painting.....I've been in a real building mood of late, particularly some of these reclamation projects, so I want to take advantage of this mood while I can. But, of course, I'll post photos when I'm done. Thanks again.
Rob
Thanks for the advice.....I'll check out that one tool. I was using the Formations one as a guide (bought it at AMPS last week), but I'll check some photos and see and get back to you on this thread about which way it should be oriented.
As for the pastel chalk, perhaps I will explore that route. I've been reading all the articles I can find on whitewash, and will try to pick whatever one seems to suit me best.
Not sure when I'll get to the painting.....I've been in a real building mood of late, particularly some of these reclamation projects, so I want to take advantage of this mood while I can. But, of course, I'll post photos when I'm done. Thanks again.
Rob
hogarth
Maryland, United States
Joined: June 02, 2006
KitMaker: 672 posts
Armorama: 592 posts
Joined: June 02, 2006
KitMaker: 672 posts
Armorama: 592 posts
Posted: Friday, April 27, 2007 - 05:34 PM UTC
Brad,
A HA! The best pic I could find is in the Concord book the Sherman At War Vol 2 by Zaloga. Page 15, the bottom photo. There is an M4A3 76w in Italy, and one can see that neither the top nor the "lower" side of that rectangle into which the bar fits is open. From other photos I've looked at, the "upper", or inboard side, isn't open either. What this means is that the bar must just be slid into that "block" from the open end and then held in place by the other bracket further forward on the tank, and then just a strap (often not seen in photos, now that I'm looking) holding it in place. Interesting. Thanks for making me look at that more closely. And perhaps I'll email Rob Ervin at Formations about this.
Rob
A HA! The best pic I could find is in the Concord book the Sherman At War Vol 2 by Zaloga. Page 15, the bottom photo. There is an M4A3 76w in Italy, and one can see that neither the top nor the "lower" side of that rectangle into which the bar fits is open. From other photos I've looked at, the "upper", or inboard side, isn't open either. What this means is that the bar must just be slid into that "block" from the open end and then held in place by the other bracket further forward on the tank, and then just a strap (often not seen in photos, now that I'm looking) holding it in place. Interesting. Thanks for making me look at that more closely. And perhaps I'll email Rob Ervin at Formations about this.
Rob
OPS_clown
Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: March 20, 2007
KitMaker: 57 posts
Armorama: 53 posts
Joined: March 20, 2007
KitMaker: 57 posts
Armorama: 53 posts
Posted: Friday, April 27, 2007 - 05:56 PM UTC
Rob,
Looks great! I have seen some models in progress that have the texture added on the hulls and turrets, is this just standard model putty? how is the texturing done?
Rich
Looks great! I have seen some models in progress that have the texture added on the hulls and turrets, is this just standard model putty? how is the texturing done?
Rich
hogarth
Maryland, United States
Joined: June 02, 2006
KitMaker: 672 posts
Armorama: 592 posts
Joined: June 02, 2006
KitMaker: 672 posts
Armorama: 592 posts
Posted: Friday, April 27, 2007 - 08:27 PM UTC
OPS clown.
There's a screen name! Anyway, I just use squadron putty. I put it in a cup and mix it with an old model paint brush with testors liquid cement, til it's like a soupy goop. Then spread it with the paint brush, then go back with a brush with the bristles cut short and jab away at it. Then, when it's all dried and set up, I go back and sand it to keep it from looking "furry". American cast armor tended to be less dramatically "rough" than, say, some Soviet pieces. For those I'd do it a bit rougher.
It's tough, with my fancy photographic skills, to see how smooth these areas are on this Sherman. They're still pretty smooth after the sanding.
Hope this description helps a bit.
Rob
There's a screen name! Anyway, I just use squadron putty. I put it in a cup and mix it with an old model paint brush with testors liquid cement, til it's like a soupy goop. Then spread it with the paint brush, then go back with a brush with the bristles cut short and jab away at it. Then, when it's all dried and set up, I go back and sand it to keep it from looking "furry". American cast armor tended to be less dramatically "rough" than, say, some Soviet pieces. For those I'd do it a bit rougher.
It's tough, with my fancy photographic skills, to see how smooth these areas are on this Sherman. They're still pretty smooth after the sanding.
Hope this description helps a bit.
Rob
HONEYCUT
Victoria, Australia
Joined: May 07, 2003
KitMaker: 4,002 posts
Armorama: 2,947 posts
Joined: May 07, 2003
KitMaker: 4,002 posts
Armorama: 2,947 posts
Posted: Saturday, April 28, 2007 - 05:08 PM UTC
Gday Rob
I checked the photo that you looked at, and yep, it appears that the only opening is the end pointing towards the front of the tank... Kind of makes sense now I suppose...
Forgot to mention that the cast texture looks good. I like your method, although I have never used Squadron putty before. I generally go with Revell liquid cement, and stipple it with a brush or even use my finger *ick*
Are they improvised crew steps on the front of the transmission cover?
I know what you mean about getting in a building mood; kind of like tying up loose ends!
Cheers
Brad
I checked the photo that you looked at, and yep, it appears that the only opening is the end pointing towards the front of the tank... Kind of makes sense now I suppose...
Forgot to mention that the cast texture looks good. I like your method, although I have never used Squadron putty before. I generally go with Revell liquid cement, and stipple it with a brush or even use my finger *ick*
Are they improvised crew steps on the front of the transmission cover?
I know what you mean about getting in a building mood; kind of like tying up loose ends!
Cheers
Brad