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AUF 1 Build from the Box

Build Review

The complete build of the AUF1 is done by completing 41 steps. I will cover the build in SBS approach and it will be an out of the box. So let get started.

Step 1 covers the build of all the wheels, idler wheels as well as sprocket wheel. You notice already that most of the parts are in common with the build of the AMX-30. You need to take special care when removing the sprocket wheels since the attachment points are located within the teeth and not on top of then, cleaning can be tricky. The assembly of the wheels is straightforward and poly caps are inserted inside the hub. Meng provides a photo etched paint mask for the wheels, it is a nice addition but for the AUF 1 the wheels as well as the lower hull are painted in black like the rubber rims so you don’t need to use the mask.

Step 2 &3, these steps cover the build and the assembly of the suspension and in particular the building of the four hydraulic shock absorbers. Different details are glued on the lower hull. In my sample the rear part of the hull was deformed as seen on the figure. The fit of everything here is quite good. All shock absorbers are moveable. Generally the fit is good but you need to drill to hole for the lifting rings A35.

Step 4 is the mounting of all torsion bars. They are moveable. You will consider gluing them inside the lower hull. The diameter of the torsion bar is really small therefore the lifetime of such items can be short taking into account the weight of the turret.

Step 5 is the attachment of the wheels. At this step, you realize that the torsion bars don’t help you to get all wheels perfectly aligned.

Step 6, the upper hull is receiving some special care. Since the hull is shared with the AMX-30, you need to prepare the hull by drilling extra holes and doing some filling of tiny holes. The special features are attached close to the driver hatch as well as the periscope. They are not in transparent plastics which is a pity.

Step 7 covers the assembly of the tools rack. I decided to glue these directly to the panels (N34 & N35) and I bumped into same big fit problem; after gluing a noticeable gap was present that clearly needed to be filled up with putty. Please check my photo for a better understanding. All tools are provided with plastic clamps and they are not perfectly aligned. Special care is required while working with them.

Step 8 & 9 described the build of the air filter as well as the attachment of the upper hull onto the lower hull. There is no warping and no gaps during this step as both hulls align perfectly, you need to sand down the noticeable seam line on the front part on the lower hull.

Step 10 is the closing of the rear hull and then the engine deck is glued onto the upper hull. It is impossible to drop part N1 inside without enlarging the holes. The air fan cooler grill is just a thick piece and a photo etched one would have been a better choice. The rear fenders are closed with pieces: N30 (N31) + N32 (N33) please don’t glue them, it will be impossible to insert the track afterward.