¹⁄35

251 mit Wurfrahmen

construction

As is becoming the ‘norm’ with these 251 3 in 1 kits from Dragon, stage 1 of the instructions introduces us to the choices to be made by giving us a colour coded ‘key’ to each of the three versions. These are; 1 – 251/2 C with the 32cm jellied gasoline rockets. 2 – 251/2 C with the 28cm TNT rockets. 3 – 251/2 C with the PAK 36. I decided to build the 2 version using the 28cm TNT loaded rockets.

Again, as is usual now with these 251 kits, construction actually begins with the construction of the chassis and running gear. The fuel tank, a rudimentary engine, and battery are included, although it’s impossible to see these on the finished model and so possible to leave these out and proceed with the construction. The armoured cover for the transmission is installed at this stage, and according to the references I have, it’s a matter of choice whether or not it’s used, although if you decide to construct a specific vehicle, then obviously, it depends on your references.

I chose to use it since I just feel it looks better with it installed. Construction of the axle and suspension for the front wheels is easily confused at this stage, make sure you have everything the correct way around, especially parts C30 and C35, as these are not installed between C20 and C25 as shown on the instructions! The diagram showing the completed assembly shows them correctly installed however. This is a fault with every set of 251 instructions that Dragon have issued. Construction continues with the wheels, and if you are going to paint the wheels and tracks separately, then you can join E3 to E5 at this stage; they can be easily installed later. Please note that when joining part E3 to E5, the ‘sit’ of the parts is much better if you first shave a tiny bit off the top of the locating lug on part E3. The detail on the tyres is amazing; Dragon offering the new improved tooling with the manufacturers name moulded on each individual tyre.

Dragon only include the early pattern track in this kit, clean up being a bit tedious, but leaves you with an amazing set of workable tracks that makes any aftermarket replacements totally superfluous. I always use a jig for assembling these, it does make a difference! It’s possible to construct them without one, but they’re never as straight as they should be if a jig is not used.

stage 5

This is where the construction stages actually diverge for the different versions, the two rocket versions having a common interior, the PAK 36 version being different. Dragon provide a choice of seats here, the choice being between a simple styrene version, a styrene with moulded on straps, and a photo-etched sprung version. All you have to do is choose the version you are most happy working with. Dragon also provide decals for the dashboard, which I didn’t use since I was worried about them settling down over the moulded on detail of the plastic part, so for mine I chose to paint the details once the dashboard was assembled. Again, as is common to all the 251 kits, there are no brackets provided for the MP40 machine guns stowed by the driver’s and radio operator’s positions. In stage 7 when assembling the MG 34 for the front position, Dragon do provide a lovely photo-etched sight for the MG though, so I’ll forgive them for the missing MP40 brackets!

Stage 6 is the installation of the floor to the chassis. Firstly, make absolutely sure that the floor is sitting centrally to the chassis before cementing into position. This will pay dividends later when installing the sides.

stage 9

Construction continues in a straightforward manner, much the same as all the earlier 251 kits from Dragon, with only minor variations such as the clear sprue for the vision slots and associated hardware. These are useful additions, but extremely fiddly to install, and I’m not entirely convinced of their usefulness. I usually end up cementing these assembly’s either open or closed anyway, and in truth, they are very difficult to see on the finished model. I think photo-etched brackets would have been more useful.

When fixing the sidewalls into position, offer them up the gap between the floor and the chassis, and when located properly they ‘click’ into position. Again, make sure that the front of each wall is located into position exactly relatively to the pointed ‘V’ shape in the engine compartment floor. When you are happy they are in place, cement can be run along the join.