I am working on three 1/35 scale figures for my dio, and since I'm excited I started tonight.

I painted the uniform with the base coat, and after it was thouroughly dry, applied the wash. Maybe it wasn't runny enough, but it didn't "flow" like so many people say it does, and the guy looks like he has a tiger striped coat on. In desperation, I tried to drybrush the base color over where the wash meets the base coat so as to feather the edge. Well, I can't drybrush, so that didnt work.

Any ideas on what I can do to save this project? Was there not enough thinner in the wash?

More info:

kind / type of paint, etc... type of figure (resin, plastic, metal)...

Samuel,

This is not my forte, but I think if you post a pic or two, those that are figgie kinda folks will be able to help better.....easier to offer advice if they "see" what your working with.

Mike

If you're using acrilyc for your wash you need to add a little drop of Future, Windex or dishwasher soap to your mix. This will help break the surface tension of the paint and make it running into the crevice instead of making little puddle pools all over the figure.

Sounds like it wasnt thinned enough, but thats strictly off the cuff. I think everyone else who suggested pics, type of paint, etc are right. This is a good bunch of guys, and if you provide them with more info, they'll give you both an honest answer, and a helping hand.

Hi Samuel.
While a basecoat, wash and drybrush does work on 1/35 scale, when these techniques are mastered, can actually suffice, the end result is rather limited.
One of the best learning experiences I had with figures was to attempt 1/16 figures, where all has to be actually painted. After 2 figures at this scale, it was easier to go back to 1/35 and actually "paint" the figure.
Another useful experience was to follow step by steps from magazines where talented modellers explained how they paint. Even if it does not always work out, the experience and lessons learnt all help. There are several such articles here on Armorama.
Another tip is try different mediums .. oils and enamels. (For enamels, check out Mark Bannermans articles on Missing links). Working with different mediums gives different results, finishes and also makes you more aware of how you´re painting.

By your description of tiger stripes, your wash does sound as if its not properly thinned. Its better to wash several times and build it up, rather than try to get it all down at the same time. If you used acrylics, steeping them in alcohol/windex will lift the paint.

Hi Sam,

This may not be what you want to hear, but I would strip the figure down. If you're not happy with the figure now, you'll only get more despondent trying to fix it.

My 0.02ZAR

Rudi

I use MM acrylics thinned with water. The figure is a plastic Tamiya figure.

For those of you who want to know, it is one of the ones in Tamiya's 105mm Sherman kit ( the guy peeking around a corner).

I'll work on getting some pics up. I suppose that you just drop them into your post?

You need to up-load them to a photo hosting site. You're on lone now! Click on My account at the top of the page. The Click on My gallery photos.
Click on Up load photos (you may need to re-login). Click broowse, go to the folder on your computer where the pictures are and double click . Click upl;oad and process on the next page.
When they're laoded, click on the thumbnail to get a full size image. Click on the "copy to clipboard" button next to the box labelled "ubb code" and paste this in the reply box. This is the address that starts with [ i m g ]
Sounds like a lot, but it's really pretty quick.
For the record, after 30 years of paintng figs, there are some days I feel totally frustrated, too.

Washes on figures are only good for accenting some fine details, not for shading the uniforms. Washes should be very thin and subtle. Rather than washes and drybrushing try a basecoat, then paint the shadows and highlights with layers of gradually darker colours in the shadows and gradually lighter colours for highlights. All paint should be slightly thinned. Look at real clothing to get an idea of how dark th shadows should be and how light for the highlights.

Hi Samuel,
I know what it's like with figure painting mate!!My figures until now have been pretty shocking to say the least.Luckily enough i was able to undergo a workshop with Gino Poppe who taught me some very helpful hints in regards to figure painting.
Having the right brushes to start off with makes a world of difference, and choosing between which medium (oil or water) you feel more comfortable to work with.
A good idea would be to find out if there is a model club or figure club in your area.If so, there might be a way of learning from someone there?
Otherwise i suggest that you check out everything the friendly people like Tarok over on Historicus Forma have to offer!!
Good luck (from a fellow newbie)
Shay

I applied washes for years to mine and was never happy with the results. It was not till I tried oils, and actually painting the details that I became happy with what I was doing. I still am not that good at it but I am learning. Oils is the way to go in my opinion. And good, quality brushes.

Ciao Sam,
Don't feel that way, but don't feel alone, either. All of us have gone (or continue to go through) that kind of feeling. Everyone has given great advice, and all I can add is that practice makes perfect (or at least better.) Try painting cheaper figures first, and then go for the better ones. I used to paint avon bottles around the house or the faces on pennies. Anything to keep practicing. You'll get it!! Post some work and get some analysis from some of the experts around here. They will really raise your game.
Ciao for now
Rob

I am developing a new technique for figures, which aren't my forte either. I spray them, then drybrush them with MIG Pigments. I have tried this with black panzer uniforms and MIG's black smoke. They came out great. I have also tried it with other color uniforms, and a light coating of dust or industrial grime to fade them. Also worked great.

Technique is to apray the figure the desired color. Use a medium stiff brush full of pigments like you are drybrushing. Seal it with a very, very light coat of clear flat. Clear semi-gloss works good to simulate leather. linkname

If the pictures appear here. You can see how the pigments flatten the sheen. The bald guy on the right is wearing a leather jacket, so you can see how the leather appears on him. The other two are all in black. linkname linkname linkname

Pictures didn't show up. What did I do wrong?

Ciao Carl,
Try clicking on the [img] insert on the black strip located at the bottom of this box. Then insert the entire image url with the parenthesis.
Ciao for now
Rob

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Thanks for the help. It appears that I took out the parens.

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My grandkids probably could have done that in 30 seconds. But they are all there.

So you don't do any shadows in the wrinkles?

It looks like I did, but the way the pigments take away the shine, also highlights and shadows the surfaces. These figures actually look like this. It is not something the camera did. That is why I am sharing this technique. It works better than highlighting, lowlighting and whatever.

By the way, badges are from Eduard, shoulder rank from Archer.

Sorry, I'm a newbie to all this, but what exactly are pigments?

Pigments are like colored dust. Take a look at this site, it should answer some questions.

Pigments, what are they and how to use them