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Wash Recipes anybody?
sweaver
Kentucky, United States
Joined: April 19, 2007
KitMaker: 759 posts
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Joined: April 19, 2007
KitMaker: 759 posts
Armorama: 410 posts
Posted: Sunday, June 10, 2007 - 08:24 AM UTC
Does anybody have a "recipe", ratio for a wash? I want a black one.
TreadHead
Colorado, United States
Joined: January 12, 2002
KitMaker: 5,000 posts
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Joined: January 12, 2002
KitMaker: 5,000 posts
Armorama: 2,868 posts
Posted: Sunday, June 10, 2007 - 12:14 PM UTC
Howdy sweaver
Welcome to the site.
I won't pipe in with a wash 'recipe' as such, because I'm sure you will get some very helpful suggestions soon.
What I will do is toss an idea at ya....try this; I used to keep a couple of old airbrush jars {because they had closable lids} with which I would clean paintbrushes. I would separate the blues/greens from the brown/reds, and since I used black quite often that would be mixed with both of these jars. This old, nasty, leftover liquid made some pretty good 'wash' solution.....it was all just a matter of applying the proper colour temperature tone to your project.
hth
Tread.
Welcome to the site.
I won't pipe in with a wash 'recipe' as such, because I'm sure you will get some very helpful suggestions soon.
What I will do is toss an idea at ya....try this; I used to keep a couple of old airbrush jars {because they had closable lids} with which I would clean paintbrushes. I would separate the blues/greens from the brown/reds, and since I used black quite often that would be mixed with both of these jars. This old, nasty, leftover liquid made some pretty good 'wash' solution.....it was all just a matter of applying the proper colour temperature tone to your project.
hth
Tread.
sweaver
Kentucky, United States
Joined: April 19, 2007
KitMaker: 759 posts
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Joined: April 19, 2007
KitMaker: 759 posts
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Posted: Monday, June 11, 2007 - 01:23 AM UTC
Interesting. Seems there is a modeling use for everything, even your wash water!
TreadHead
Colorado, United States
Joined: January 12, 2002
KitMaker: 5,000 posts
Armorama: 2,868 posts
Joined: January 12, 2002
KitMaker: 5,000 posts
Armorama: 2,868 posts
Posted: Monday, June 11, 2007 - 09:40 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Interesting. Seems there is a modeling use for everything, even your wash water!
.....don't even get me started with what you can potentially use for rust, ash, and/or carbon deposits!........
Tread.
JohanW
Limburg, Belgium
Joined: October 01, 2003
KitMaker: 143 posts
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Joined: October 01, 2003
KitMaker: 143 posts
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Posted: Monday, June 11, 2007 - 10:26 AM UTC
Making a wash is very simple: take a colour and mix it with some kind of thinner. Mostly oils are mixed with white spirit, or other mineral thinners..
I never use strict ratios, just mix by feeling. It is always interesting to keep a scrap piece of model or an old kit at hand, so you can test your mix before sending it to the battle field
Hope this helps,
Johan
I never use strict ratios, just mix by feeling. It is always interesting to keep a scrap piece of model or an old kit at hand, so you can test your mix before sending it to the battle field
Hope this helps,
Johan
DeskJockey
Virginia, United States
Joined: July 17, 2006
KitMaker: 1,558 posts
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Joined: July 17, 2006
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Posted: Monday, June 11, 2007 - 01:07 PM UTC
I do the same thing Johan does. I squirt some mineral spirits bought at Home Depot (about a teaspoon or two) into a shallow bowl palette and then mix in some burnt umber or raw umber oil paints until it looks like coffee with only a bit of creamer in it. It's better to go light on a wash instead of heavy. You can always apply a second wash to darken things, after all. I flow it onto the model (mixing it constantly, as the oil paint tends to settle quickly) and let it dry for an hour or two. Then I wipe the model with a cotton swab dipped in mineral spirits to smooth out the color and eliminate it from areas where it doesn't belong. Hope this helps!
MusicOn
Virginia, United States
Joined: October 15, 2006
KitMaker: 179 posts
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Joined: October 15, 2006
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Armorama: 178 posts
Posted: Monday, June 11, 2007 - 01:59 PM UTC
My technique, as it were:
After decals and details have been painted, airbrush on a glossy/semigloss coat ( I use Future). This allows the wash to flow into the recesses and panel lines vs. "staining" the flat surface.
Put some turpenoid or mineral spirit thinner into a small container/palette.
Add a pinhead size glob of equal parts Raw Umber and Lamp Black Artist Oils.
Mix thoroughly - the "consistency of black coffee" rule of thumb has always worked well for me.
Apply wash to crevices and panel lines/etc. Let dry for an hour or so and go back with a q-tip and clean thinner to clean up any "oopsies'.
After decals and details have been painted, airbrush on a glossy/semigloss coat ( I use Future). This allows the wash to flow into the recesses and panel lines vs. "staining" the flat surface.
Put some turpenoid or mineral spirit thinner into a small container/palette.
Add a pinhead size glob of equal parts Raw Umber and Lamp Black Artist Oils.
Mix thoroughly - the "consistency of black coffee" rule of thumb has always worked well for me.
Apply wash to crevices and panel lines/etc. Let dry for an hour or so and go back with a q-tip and clean thinner to clean up any "oopsies'.
sweaver
Kentucky, United States
Joined: April 19, 2007
KitMaker: 759 posts
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Joined: April 19, 2007
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Armorama: 410 posts
Posted: Monday, June 11, 2007 - 10:16 PM UTC
Thanks for the great suggestions!
I use acrylics, so what would I use to clean up the mistakes?
I use acrylics, so what would I use to clean up the mistakes?
scoccia
Milano, Italy
Joined: September 02, 2002
KitMaker: 2,606 posts
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Joined: September 02, 2002
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Posted: Tuesday, June 12, 2007 - 04:52 AM UTC
Using acryl washes means that if yo're wrong you spoil the previous paint work in a way almost impossible to recover.
For washes I think the best solution are oils thinned in white spirit. In this case if you make mistakes you've got a reasonable (but not ethernal) time to correct them just removing the excess with another clean paintbrush thinned in white spirit.
On top of that I sugget you not to apply an acryl Tamiya wash (if thinned with alchool) over a Tamiya base coat, because it will come out. A good rule is always to use incompatible media to make washes, filters and so on...
Ciao
Fabio
For washes I think the best solution are oils thinned in white spirit. In this case if you make mistakes you've got a reasonable (but not ethernal) time to correct them just removing the excess with another clean paintbrush thinned in white spirit.
On top of that I sugget you not to apply an acryl Tamiya wash (if thinned with alchool) over a Tamiya base coat, because it will come out. A good rule is always to use incompatible media to make washes, filters and so on...
Ciao
Fabio
TreadHead
Colorado, United States
Joined: January 12, 2002
KitMaker: 5,000 posts
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Joined: January 12, 2002
KitMaker: 5,000 posts
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Posted: Tuesday, June 12, 2007 - 09:39 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Thanks for the great suggestions!
I use acrylics, so what would I use to clean up the mistakes?
Yes, I figured that. That's why my 'suggestion' was worded so........
Now, when it comes to oils {which is what most are using now}, you have just gotten some very helpful guidance from the brethren as I suspected {and stated} you would.
Tread.
PostScript: Another thing to keep forefront in your mind when using oils is; that you can increase/reduce/shift/re-shift/add different color/subtract/etc, etc the whole time using oils. Acrylics on the other hand allow none of these options......{except maybe adding more}.