Hi All,
Thinking about getting intimately involved with the tracks on the Dragon #6323 kit.
The instructions give you 2 options (with and without grousers). I'm thinking of modelling the latter option.
Now each link has 3 pieces. Would it be best to make each link completely and then assemble the runs for each side, or leave the outside pieces (F3) off to ease painting the wheels and track innner surfaces and then attach them afterwards?
Any help is greatly appreciated.
Tom

Afternoon Tom,

I haven't built that kit but I assume you have the normal indi tracks? Did you get steel pads and rubber pads with duckbills and connectors?

Anyway, if you join the track links up in small sections 5 to 10 a time, them flaffen them with an ordinary ruler to make sure they are flat and that the connectors are sitting correctly. Then build another short length and so on.

I usually build the top and bottom lengths for both sides and then paint them. Then build around the drive wheel and join the top and bottom lengths to that. I usually let that set and then gentle remove it to paint. Finally I build the rear sections around the idler wheel and then join them on the bottom. The last bit of painting can be tricky. If your using humbrol cement then you'll have plenty of work time before it sets hard. Up to you whether you fix the last run and paint it in place once dry or give it a quick coat just before you join the last link. I've tried both methods the second is a bit messy and the first requires a bit of patience to make sure yo paint all that can be seen. I prefer the messy method lol, lol but you need to keep the last link and the 2 links it joins to clean, other wish the paint interfers with the glue.

Make sure and adjust any connectors that don't quite sit right before you let the whole thing set and then paint away.

Others will have a much better method. Dont' try to rush it I normally do mine over a couple of days.

Hope this helps. Oh and clean up the links well before hand.

Al

Alan,
I get your drift, and I usually make indie tracks as you say. I blue-tac a ruler to my worktop, and build the lengths along this keeping light pressure on the built section with another ruler that I slide along as each link gets attached.
Re-reading my original post I don't think I expressed my question as well as I could have.
I've never made indie tracks with the guide teeth on the outside edges (I've made modern armour almost exclusively with indie tracks and the guide teeth always seem to be in the center).
What I meant to ask was should I leave the outer edge teeth off to help paint the track runs on the model (around the bogie wheels and suchlike)then add the outer edge teeth after.
In the long run I don't suppose it'll matter that much. I just wanted to know if anyone thought it could work or not.
TTFN
Tom

Hi Tom.

Ah, I understand what you mean. Can't see how that would work with the Sherman tracks. You have to build each pad and two connectors and move on as indcated. When you start to build them you'll see why I suggested you flatten them from the inside with a ruler.

Never build any mordern armour myself, so didn't pick up on what you first said.

Enjoy the build and post a few pics as you progress.

Cheers

Al

Try making a jig out of basswood and balsa for your M3/M4 VVSS tracks.
I use a small 5" x 6" sheet of basswood as a base with a couple of strips of balsa CA glued onto the base.
The strips are spaced so that the 2 links and end connectors fit in between.
I apply thin glue to the pins on the links and attach the end connectors.
When assembled, I put them into the jig and then use a straight edge or ruler to level the track links and then plum up the end connectors with the tracks.
The beauty of using basswood and balsa is that plastic solvents won't bond to them.

For "duckbill" connectors, I've glued a piece of balsa wood thats as wide as the track links and and as tall as end connectors onto a basswood base.
I then place the track links on top of the strip and attach the end connectors.
This type of jig also avoids the "oops" of having glued any of your links in the wrong direction, a problem that creeps up in assembling tracks with chevrons.
Hope that helps.
Cheers

jjumbo