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What to use for Abrams OIF antenna tiedowns?
DeskJockey
Virginia, United States
Joined: July 17, 2006
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Joined: July 17, 2006
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Posted: Monday, June 25, 2007 - 12:55 PM UTC
I've seen several photographs of M1 tanks in OIF with their antennas tied down so that they don't stick straight up. What was used to tie them down? What would be the best way to represent it in 1/35 scale? I'm thinking string, but am not sure this is the way to go. Any ideas?
Burik
New Jersey, United States
Joined: March 12, 2002
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Joined: March 12, 2002
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Posted: Monday, June 25, 2007 - 02:31 PM UTC
Lucas:
My references show that a clip was used. The clip goes around the antenna and has a hole in it to slip rope through the hole which in turn is tied to something, like the rails on the turret sides of the Abrams.
I will try and find a photo later. If you have my book I am sure a photo or two show this.
I am on the wrong computer to show you a photo at the moment.
Bob
My references show that a clip was used. The clip goes around the antenna and has a hole in it to slip rope through the hole which in turn is tied to something, like the rails on the turret sides of the Abrams.
I will try and find a photo later. If you have my book I am sure a photo or two show this.
I am on the wrong computer to show you a photo at the moment.
Bob
LeoCmdr
Alberta, Canada
Joined: January 19, 2005
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Posted: Monday, June 25, 2007 - 02:56 PM UTC
I would think they would use the genuine (say it like....Jennn-Youuuuu-Whiiiine) issued antenna tiedowns.
If you want to replicate them then you need to check your references for the aluminum clip that Bob mentioned that is tied to the tiedown rope.
They look like a J shape with a hole on the tope for the tiedown rope.
A field expedient method is to use the tiedown rope and actually tie it to the antenna and then secure the other end to the vehicle. The metal clips are OK but they can fly off easily over rough terrain.
Pick up some nylon thread in a dark tan or OD if you can find those colours....the kind that does not fray when unravelled.
When tieing it on leave excess and trim it off with an X-acto blade once you have it where you want it.
If you are concerned about securing the tiedown to the antenna then tie it on and just put a small dab of liquid superglue on the metal clip or tied thread before you cut the excess and it won't go anywhere.
I use spare PE frets to make the metal clips...much more solid than using foil.
If you want to replicate them then you need to check your references for the aluminum clip that Bob mentioned that is tied to the tiedown rope.
They look like a J shape with a hole on the tope for the tiedown rope.
A field expedient method is to use the tiedown rope and actually tie it to the antenna and then secure the other end to the vehicle. The metal clips are OK but they can fly off easily over rough terrain.
Pick up some nylon thread in a dark tan or OD if you can find those colours....the kind that does not fray when unravelled.
When tieing it on leave excess and trim it off with an X-acto blade once you have it where you want it.
If you are concerned about securing the tiedown to the antenna then tie it on and just put a small dab of liquid superglue on the metal clip or tied thread before you cut the excess and it won't go anywhere.
I use spare PE frets to make the metal clips...much more solid than using foil.
Burik
New Jersey, United States
Joined: March 12, 2002
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Posted: Tuesday, June 26, 2007 - 12:21 PM UTC
Here is the clip. Below the clip is M9 gas tape too.
Bob
Bob
DeskJockey
Virginia, United States
Joined: July 17, 2006
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Posted: Tuesday, June 26, 2007 - 12:47 PM UTC
Jason, Bob--Thanks for the quick response. I found a photo on page 17 of your book that shows the clip, but it's fairly small and hard to see unless you know what you are looking at (and now I know!). The new photo you've posted is perfect and will help a lot.
Gary--I'm actually going to sidestep that problem. The picture in Bob's book and another one on page 16 of the Concord Special Ops #27 book show gently curving antennas that have not been pulled too low and therefore have an unbent antenna spring. That's the look I will aim for, rather than the lower-slung stance where the spring bends.
Gary--I'm actually going to sidestep that problem. The picture in Bob's book and another one on page 16 of the Concord Special Ops #27 book show gently curving antennas that have not been pulled too low and therefore have an unbent antenna spring. That's the look I will aim for, rather than the lower-slung stance where the spring bends.
sgtreef
Oklahoma, United States
Joined: March 01, 2002
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Posted: Tuesday, June 26, 2007 - 12:57 PM UTC
Kicking now Lucas now another thing try Carbon fiber for antenna.
can be bent pretty close and will spring back.
A little safer then Piano wire also.
About $5.30 for two 24 "pieces enough for a bunch of stuff but will need a little sanding as they come in 1/32" not to bad but good enough for me.
Plus a dead flat black.
Now does anybody know the length of the darn things??
Looking good Troop.
Can't wait to see this puppy done up.
Kicking so far.
So you going to do the AIM next?
Know I want to
can be bent pretty close and will spring back.
A little safer then Piano wire also.
About $5.30 for two 24 "pieces enough for a bunch of stuff but will need a little sanding as they come in 1/32" not to bad but good enough for me.
Plus a dead flat black.
Now does anybody know the length of the darn things??
Looking good Troop.
Can't wait to see this puppy done up.
Kicking so far.
So you going to do the AIM next?
Know I want to
DeskJockey
Virginia, United States
Joined: July 17, 2006
KitMaker: 1,558 posts
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Joined: July 17, 2006
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Posted: Tuesday, June 26, 2007 - 01:56 PM UTC
Thanks for the tip, Jeff. I'll have to try the carbon fiber approach soon. Right now I'm using guitar strings, which seem to work pretty well but are hard to paint.
Modern US Army antennas should be about 2.5 inches high, according to an old post from Gino that I bookmarked.
I'm not sure I'm ready to do the AIM kit justice, although I admit I'm salivating at the prospect and eying it in sitting there in my stash... calling to me...
I think my next project will be a quick build of the Swedish Stvr 103B, for a bit of variety. But first I have to finish the M1A2 and the M113A3 I have on the bench.
Modern US Army antennas should be about 2.5 inches high, according to an old post from Gino that I bookmarked.
I'm not sure I'm ready to do the AIM kit justice, although I admit I'm salivating at the prospect and eying it in sitting there in my stash... calling to me...
I think my next project will be a quick build of the Swedish Stvr 103B, for a bit of variety. But first I have to finish the M1A2 and the M113A3 I have on the bench.
sgtreef
Oklahoma, United States
Joined: March 01, 2002
KitMaker: 6,043 posts
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Posted: Wednesday, June 27, 2007 - 10:01 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Thanks for the tip, Jeff. I'll have to try the carbon fiber approach soon. Right now I'm using guitar strings, which seem to work pretty well but are hard to paint.
Modern US Army antennas should be about 2.5 inches high, according to an old post from Gino that I bookmarked.
I'm not sure I'm ready to do the AIM kit justice, although I admit I'm salivating at the prospect and eying it in sitting there in my stash... calling to me...
I think my next project will be a quick build of the Swedish Stvr 103B, for a bit of variety. But first I have to finish the M1A2 and the M113A3 I have on the bench.
Buddy you can handle it.
That Tamiya kit was just a start.
Or heck wait on the SEP to save some extra $$$ but they might come out with a Marine version so well another kit for the Stash.
You are right tho a change might be in order maybe that Sheridan from Academy would be a Change.
Before that not building me in a month kit.
blaster76
Texas, United States
Joined: September 15, 2002
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Posted: Friday, June 29, 2007 - 08:20 AM UTC
Don't forget to put the "bob" at the tip. We just wrapped a gob of 100 mile an hour tape(Green Army duct tape). It is an anti-eye poker-outer