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Armor/AFV: Techniques
From Weathering to making tent rolls, discuss it here.
Hosted by Darren Baker
using Mr Surfacer
spitfire303
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Vendee, France
Joined: December 22, 2006
KitMaker: 1,437 posts
Armorama: 1,406 posts
Posted: Monday, July 02, 2007 - 09:13 AM UTC
Hi,

I've just bought Mr Surfacer 1000 from Gunze. I want to use it to create the texture of armored plates. I was just wondering how should I do it I thought using a brush (rather bigger than smaller) to apply it and than sand it down with a sand paper (I have 600, 1000, 2000) in order to create a rough (but not too much) texture. Any advice would be nice


thanks
Spit
mark197205
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England - East Midlands, United Kingdom
Joined: November 10, 2003
KitMaker: 1,593 posts
Armorama: 1,465 posts
Posted: Monday, July 02, 2007 - 10:28 AM UTC
Hi Spit, most people tend to use a brush about a quarter of an inch wide brushing it on first covering only one panel at a time and then stippling it with the same brush, if its too rough gently sand it back with a fine grade of wet/dry.

HTH
tray
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Budapest, Hungary
Joined: September 13, 2005
KitMaker: 193 posts
Armorama: 186 posts
Posted: Monday, July 02, 2007 - 11:52 AM UTC
My advice is that practice first, try different techniques, and you will find the best method.
spitfire303
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Vendee, France
Joined: December 22, 2006
KitMaker: 1,437 posts
Armorama: 1,406 posts
Posted: Tuesday, July 03, 2007 - 08:41 AM UTC
thx guys will try on the bottom of my ferdinand
tankmodeler
#417
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Ontario, Canada
Joined: March 01, 2004
KitMaker: 3,123 posts
Armorama: 2,539 posts
Posted: Tuesday, July 03, 2007 - 09:02 AM UTC
If it's not too late, I recommend using the Mr. Surfacer 500. It's thicker and, I find, does a better job on creating texture. Once you have applied either version of Mr. Surfacer, keep stippling it as it dries until it forms stiff peaks, like merangue. Once it dries the texture will be rather heavy, but then the light wet sanding with 600 grit will take off the tops of the texture bumps (unless you want a really rough casting) and allow you to generate whatever level of texture you want.

As was said, practice first. You'll find there is a fine point in the process where you get the sort of stringy peaks you want. After that you can actually start to pull the material off the substrate, which tells you you've gone a bit too far and it's too dry. If that happens, just reapply and try again.

Do not glue anyting to the cast surface as the bond of the Mr. Surfacer isn't great and the object is very likely to come off wihta small knock. Usually at the worst time.

I like to use the otherwsie crappy Testors plastic brushes for this as they are relatively stiff, stipple well and hold up to the abuse pretty well. Clean them with laquer thinner after each job and they last quite a while. Don't use an overly soft brush or one that's worth any money as you'll destroy it pretty quickly.

HTH

Paul
Hisham
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Al Qahirah, Egypt / لعربية
Joined: July 23, 2004
KitMaker: 6,856 posts
Armorama: 6,363 posts
Posted: Tuesday, July 03, 2007 - 10:11 AM UTC
http://www.californiamodelworkshop.org/tutorials/surfacer/surfacer.htm
spitfire303
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Vendee, France
Joined: December 22, 2006
KitMaker: 1,437 posts
Armorama: 1,406 posts
Posted: Tuesday, July 03, 2007 - 10:33 AM UTC
Thank you Paul for your advices. I have already bought #1000 version. So I will try this on the beginning.
Hisham, what a great link you posted there man! Really VERY helpful. Most interesting thing is the idea of sparaying Mr Surfacer with an airbrush. I prefer working whenever I can with an airbrush than a brush. Will have to try that. I just must seek for the right thinner.

Thank you guys
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