So this is my first post on armorama, and I've spend weeks studying the forums and learning all new techniques. I've been modeling for 7 years, but as a novice, I never thought to weather models or fill seams, or dip canopies in future until I discovered Armorama. I've discovered a whole new world! This was my first time doing a wash, making mud, using pastels (turned out awful), figure painting, and drybrushing. I also haven't been into armor (planes for 7 years) long enough to be historically accurate, so if I'm way off base right now its because I either couldn't scratchbuild it or thought it looked "cool" as it is. I will research more for the next one. I would appreciate ANY and ALL advice that you all can give me!

Can someone tell me how to use pastels better? On the exhausts I painted them chocalate brown and then brushed rust colored pastels over, but they turned white and chalky and didn't stay the rust color I was hoping for. Thanks!


My mud was made from a mixture of Mr. Surfacer, a little Tamiya putty, chocolate brown acrylic paint and pigments. My first try used white glue and it ended up looking like a tasty chocolate shake.














The rust pastels didn't work right at all...do you apply them dry or wet?



I did shave and sand the seams but they still seem noticeable to me...variations in the face were very difficult and eventually I left him monotone. Figure painted only with acrylics which is probably my problem because I didn't use oil on the figure.


Thanks in advance for any comments! I appreciate it!

Chipping and mud look great.

For exhasts, I paint a burnt iron color, then brush on some Mig Pigments-Light Rust, Copper Rust, White Ashes, and a little smoke around the opening.

Did you use PE on the figure? The badges look good. You might want to take a little time to remove the seem lines on the next figure though.

I think you did a great job there.

BTW, Welcome to Armorama. You should go to the forums and introduce yourself. If you get time, you might want to check out the campaigns also. They can be a lot of fun.

I really like the mud effect you've used, yet another use for Mr Surfacer!

Thanks for the comments so far!

My figure was drybrushed with a mix of uniform blue and white to bring out all of the details, and I did shadowing with midnight blue mixed with black.

Carl on the pigments, is there something I have to do to prepare the surface? Or the pigments? I brushed on straight dry pigments and 99% of them fell right off. Thanks!

This article should help you with using pigments.
Effective Pigments by Adam Wilder

I usually just stipple on the pigments while the paint is still tacky. If the paint is dry, I will put a little clear flat on it, then hit it with pigments while still tacky. Other times, I will put the pigments on, then hit it with a mist of clear flat. And a third way is just to drybrush with pigments. You get a different affect with each method. You can also repeat these steps to get a heavier affect. For a newer tank, you can just paint with the burnt iron, and it comes out very convincing. HTH

Sperk welcome to Armorama and let me tell you that your panther looks really good. I think your paint chipping looks great and your model looks like its actually made of steel.

The mud on the wheels looks a little ...neh, but I think that ties into your pastel problems.

The secret is to stipple or blow rather than brush them on. As someone already mentioned, achieve a tacky surface and then apply them. I like to use a ratty old brush to dab on a bit here and there and then mix in different colors. I've also tried blowing bits of pastel through a thin straw (like the kind you find in cafes) and have gotten interesting effects.

Alternatively, if you're aiming for a dusty patina, rather than chunky mud. simply apply a very little bit of pigment onto a brush and dip it in turpinoid then spread the dirty mixture around the model. Moderation is key here or you end up with a tank that looks like it just emerged from a sandstorm (although that look seems to be en vogue with certain well known builders)

That is a petty nice build you have their.

Great job on painting ,tool handles are great.

Only thing I would say is maybe a thin coat of Dullcoat to flatten the shine a little.

But have seen the model done in semi like yours and looks okay but flat to me looks better.

So good job.

Plus welcome aboard

The straw method sounds really interesting and I think I will try that next time. Knowing now that I should have had my surface tacky before hand seems like a no-brainer but at the time I was sure stumped lol.

This was my first foray into using multiple different layers of paint, i.e. primer, basecoat, gloss, wash, etc. so I'm not that up to speed with painting types. I finished everything with Krylon Matte Finish. It says it is suppossed to eliminate glossy sheen but does look more semi flat. Is there a dull coat you guys would recommend?

I've had good results with Testors Dull Coat. I air brush mine one. If you do the same make sure you have ADEQUATE ventilation AND a quality respirator. Take care of your lungs! Only two to a customer!

Cheers

Dave

I've gone back at my exhausts with the help of your advice and I think the results look 10 times better than before (see above photos) I've since cleaned the excess pigments all over the back wall and the jack that are very easy to see in these photos. For the black soot I just stuck my finger in some pastel shavings and rubbed it on then stippled some more over it. I think for my second try it is ok, though I've seen the pics here where you would swear it's real. It's Amazing! Eager to start my next build so I can post again!

very impressive Sperk! I'm going to try the same method on the next exhausts I paint!


As for a good dullcoat. I swear by acrylics and if they're availble where you are, then go with Polly Scale's flat coat. Otherwise MM Acryl flat coat also does a good job.

I like to cut mine with about 50% rubbing alcohol for an even flatter finnish.



PS. What do you have in mind for your next build?

I really enjoyed working with acrylics too! The fast dry time meant I could keep working....the only thing I had to wait on when I was dying to work on it was letting the oil wash dry!

Well I usually do planes, this was my first tank, so I was thinking of doing a P-38. But I may also do a tamiya sherman I just bought. I really like that tanks go so much faster because there is no interior work (unless you want to). A cockpit on a plane is usually a couple day project in itself, and a lot of details get hidden in the finished project. Loving this site now that I'm posting too!