I guess it's time to start my first WIP blog.
I've been working on DML's Smart Panther with TWS interior.
The build is going fine (the ivory color is hell to paint), the TWS interior goes in relatively easy. (I'm not too concerned about the particular details: if an ammo bin is in a Panther A configuration, so be it.) This is my first resin interior (and resin conversion for that matter). The TWS interior is great, a real pleasure to work with, and highly detailed. The only problem is the instructions, which is essentially a series of poor quality photos of the assembled parts, and sometimes you have to dig real hard to find a photo online where to put that particular part. I think I'll stick with these resin interiors in the future. If you sand and saw them under running water (seriously), the toxic dust can be minimalized. I don't think I'll glue the hull together -its too good to hide.
The only real frustrating part is that I have no idea what most of the parts are. I have a Tamiya Pink Panther, and the instructions are actually give you the identity of the parts, not just where goes what. I wish all model instructions would do that too...
I'd have a bunch of questions, if somebody would be kind to answer them.
So, here are some photos
It was really hard to remove the molded-in details for the torsion bars
Most of the basic stuff is in, primed
Interior of the turret
(What is that long object in the foreground?)
Basepaint is ready (today's work). I know, the blueish-greyish color is too dark, but I like it, so it stays that way. (It was supposed to be a base for a lighter color.) The variations in color is intentional.
And here are the questions:
Blue arrow: I know it's the fire extinguisher. What color is it supposed to be? (If it's mounted outside, it's the base camo; but maybe in the inside it was red? Usually people paint it red, but that does not mean anything.)
Green arrow: what is that? What color?
Yellow arrow: what box is that? What color?
Purple arrows: what are these boxes? What colors were they?
Black arrow: I think that thing was connected to the mike and headphones. How was it wired, and what color was it? Dark grey?
Red arrow: I think these are ammo boxes. What colors were they? Dark green or grey?
How can I make extra vision blocks for the block-storage?
The driving gauges and the box with the gauges were black according to some photos, others show them white...
What color was the radio, and the frame of the radio? I've seen them ivory, black, the blueish-greyish color... kind of hard to decide.
How can I detail the radioman's MG-mount? It should have springs and stuff, but I'd need drawings. The few photos I've found are not very conclusive.
I'll have to build pedals for the driver, and paint the torsion bars black, add wires, and what else could be done to improve the interior?
Also, here's a photo of an actual Panther being restored: (EDIT: I gave up inserting the photo. Here's the link: http://svsm.org/gallery/panther/IMGP8472)
(from the http://svsm.org/gallery/panther webpage)
What are the red-ended plugs? (I'll have to scratch-build them... huh)
Any comments, advice and help is greatly appreciated.
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Heart of Gold: Spongya's Panther WIP
spongya
Associate Editor
Budapest, Hungary
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Posted: Saturday, August 04, 2007 - 04:02 PM UTC
f1matt
Manitoba, Canada
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Posted: Saturday, August 04, 2007 - 07:02 PM UTC
Looking good. What sort of camo are you going to apply? Can't wait to see more.
MLD
Vermont, United States
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Posted: Sunday, August 05, 2007 - 04:49 AM UTC
Nice looking build so far, I see you went the brave mans route and carved out all the intereior torsion bar assemblies to add the TWS floor plate.
I couldnt get past the thought of getting rid of the good DML detail for the so-so TWS base plate in my patial panther interior and so the project stalled when I tried to get meausrements for the internal and floor level braces to keep the DML bars and interior bits..
All sorts of goodies in there, arent there?
Did you have any trouble getting the base plug cut off the transmission and then getting that assembly lined up?
I'll be keeping my eye on this one.
who knows, I might even have to get mine back out.
Mike
I couldnt get past the thought of getting rid of the good DML detail for the so-so TWS base plate in my patial panther interior and so the project stalled when I tried to get meausrements for the internal and floor level braces to keep the DML bars and interior bits..
All sorts of goodies in there, arent there?
Did you have any trouble getting the base plug cut off the transmission and then getting that assembly lined up?
I'll be keeping my eye on this one.
who knows, I might even have to get mine back out.
Mike
PanzerWolf
Michigan, United States
Joined: November 14, 2004
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Posted: Sunday, August 05, 2007 - 05:33 AM UTC
well I think I might be able to help a little , the first is the front purple arrow I think those items are extra periscopes and the red arrow points to the ammo boxes for the mg 34 as for colors Id go with a contrasting color maybe steel, it'll stand out when its buttend up. the yellow arrow points to another ammo storage bin for the main gun referance; "The Panther tank quest for combat supremacy" page 88
spongya
Associate Editor
Budapest, Hungary
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Posted: Sunday, August 05, 2007 - 08:53 AM UTC
Thanks for the answers
Matthew
As soon as I find out if this particular variant was in service in the Hungarian army, I can give you an answer. If it was, it'll painted like that. If it wasn't, I really like the camo on the boxart.
MLD
I think the baseplate is great. It's a pain in the neck to remove the DML original detail, but the baseplate is more detailed. (And it takes forever to cut and insert all the torsion bars, on the other hand.)
Surprisingly the transmission went in OK. I really was scared of this resin interior, but it went in fine. The removal of the extra resin from the baseplate was a ... well, it was hard. With a big, fine saw it took more than 2 hours to carefully saw it off.
If you're not concerned with the base, leave it out. Most of it is obscured, anyway.
Mack,
Thanks for the insight. So the purple arrow points to an extra periscope? The box on a little way up with the missing side is for the vision blocks, for sure. But how does the periscope look like? Is it black?
The box the yellow arrow points to is smaller than the ammo for the main gun. The empty space under it holds the ammo -and it's as long as the box and the storage for the vision block together.
Sorry, but it really is frustrating not knowing what all these stuff are...
Matthew
As soon as I find out if this particular variant was in service in the Hungarian army, I can give you an answer. If it was, it'll painted like that. If it wasn't, I really like the camo on the boxart.
MLD
I think the baseplate is great. It's a pain in the neck to remove the DML original detail, but the baseplate is more detailed. (And it takes forever to cut and insert all the torsion bars, on the other hand.)
Surprisingly the transmission went in OK. I really was scared of this resin interior, but it went in fine. The removal of the extra resin from the baseplate was a ... well, it was hard. With a big, fine saw it took more than 2 hours to carefully saw it off.
If you're not concerned with the base, leave it out. Most of it is obscured, anyway.
Mack,
Thanks for the insight. So the purple arrow points to an extra periscope? The box on a little way up with the missing side is for the vision blocks, for sure. But how does the periscope look like? Is it black?
The box the yellow arrow points to is smaller than the ammo for the main gun. The empty space under it holds the ammo -and it's as long as the box and the storage for the vision block together.
Sorry, but it really is frustrating not knowing what all these stuff are...
spongya
Associate Editor
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Posted: Sunday, August 19, 2007 - 02:45 PM UTC
andortoth
Budapest, Hungary
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Posted: Tuesday, August 21, 2007 - 04:53 AM UTC
Szia András!
I do not know any hungarian Panthers... (nor germans with hungarian crew)
Nice work, keep us informed:)
I do not know any hungarian Panthers... (nor germans with hungarian crew)
Nice work, keep us informed:)
spongya
Associate Editor
Budapest, Hungary
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Posted: Monday, August 27, 2007 - 09:07 AM UTC
tjkelly
Maryland, United States
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Posted: Monday, August 27, 2007 - 10:20 AM UTC
Andras -
Great looking work so far, much more than I would ever imagine tackling. How much is going to be seen when it's all buttoned up? Have you thought about maybe throwing in some lights for the interior, to show it off? Don't know how to go about doing that, but it may allow folks to gain a true appreciation for all the work you've done to the interior.
Looking forward to seeing the progress as you move along!
Thanks for the pics!
Cheers!
Tim
Great looking work so far, much more than I would ever imagine tackling. How much is going to be seen when it's all buttoned up? Have you thought about maybe throwing in some lights for the interior, to show it off? Don't know how to go about doing that, but it may allow folks to gain a true appreciation for all the work you've done to the interior.
Looking forward to seeing the progress as you move along!
Thanks for the pics!
Cheers!
Tim
CaptainA
Indiana, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, August 28, 2007 - 08:24 AM UTC
Looks good Andras. You are doing a fine job.
A word to all who want to do one of these resin interiors. Belt-sander. It will save a lot of time and make removing plugs much easier. Thining parts is much easier. But always wear a mask. Resin dust is really bad for you.
To all readers-check out the Heart of Gold Campaign. Andras is doing this build as part of the campaign. You still have time if you want to join in and participate in the HoG Campaign.
A word to all who want to do one of these resin interiors. Belt-sander. It will save a lot of time and make removing plugs much easier. Thining parts is much easier. But always wear a mask. Resin dust is really bad for you.
To all readers-check out the Heart of Gold Campaign. Andras is doing this build as part of the campaign. You still have time if you want to join in and participate in the HoG Campaign.
spongya
Associate Editor
Budapest, Hungary
Joined: February 01, 2005
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Posted: Tuesday, August 28, 2007 - 11:10 AM UTC
Thank you all for the encouraging words. Whenever I touch this model, I'm screaming inside my head, because I am scared I mess it up...
I have no idea how much will be visible after the hull is buttoned up. Perhaps if the turret is removed when you want to take a peek... The problem is to make the hull fit - the radiators interfere with the upper hull, so I'll have to do some surgery with the Proxxon. The lights are great idea, but honestly, I have no idea how to do that... (Maybe on the 1/16 T-34, or the 1/16 King Tiger that's on the buy-it-even-if-you-have-to-sell-a-kidney list.)
The next project is going to be something like a cutaway, that you can see in books. At least an attempt. This was to be something like that, but I didn't have the heart to cut into the DML kit.
I have no idea how much will be visible after the hull is buttoned up. Perhaps if the turret is removed when you want to take a peek... The problem is to make the hull fit - the radiators interfere with the upper hull, so I'll have to do some surgery with the Proxxon. The lights are great idea, but honestly, I have no idea how to do that... (Maybe on the 1/16 T-34, or the 1/16 King Tiger that's on the buy-it-even-if-you-have-to-sell-a-kidney list.)
The next project is going to be something like a cutaway, that you can see in books. At least an attempt. This was to be something like that, but I didn't have the heart to cut into the DML kit.
spongya
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Posted: Thursday, September 06, 2007 - 09:37 AM UTC
CaptainA
Indiana, United States
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Posted: Monday, September 24, 2007 - 09:53 AM UTC
Quoted Text
[The hull cannot be closed -some of the resin is in the way. (It was designed for the Tamiya kit.) It is going to be interesting.
This is a common problem, even when using the designated kit. It really helps to have some big tools when you use resin aftermarket kits. I just sanded an air filter on my stug III. It took a few seconds with a belt sander. It would have taken at least half an hour with a big file. It really looks good so far.
spongya
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Posted: Sunday, December 16, 2007 - 06:57 AM UTC
3442
Quebec, Canada
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Posted: Sunday, December 16, 2007 - 07:22 AM UTC
looks absolutly beautiful!
I do believe the ammo boxes would be more of a field grey (aka green).
Frank
I do believe the ammo boxes would be more of a field grey (aka green).
Frank
spongya
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Posted: Sunday, December 16, 2007 - 07:37 AM UTC
Thanks. I'll repaint them ASAP.
H_Ackermans
Gelderland, Netherlands
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Posted: Sunday, December 16, 2007 - 08:55 AM UTC
Looking incredible!
Even though is is about a Panther-A, the Panther Project book gives ample pictures of all fittings and is the best reference for a Panther's interior.
Even though is is about a Panther-A, the Panther Project book gives ample pictures of all fittings and is the best reference for a Panther's interior.
spongya
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Posted: Sunday, December 16, 2007 - 09:19 AM UTC
Thank you for your kind words.
The book came too late; when it came out, most of the stuff was glued in place. Before I start the Tiger I'll get the one about the Tiger, though. (And later probably the Panther books, too.)
The book came too late; when it came out, most of the stuff was glued in place. Before I start the Tiger I'll get the one about the Tiger, though. (And later probably the Panther books, too.)
spongya
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Posted: Sunday, December 23, 2007 - 05:52 AM UTC
For now it's done. I'm going home for two weeks, and maybe after that I can bring myself weathering it properly. For now, it's a pristine tank fresh out of factory. (They didn't even weld the hull together )
(I don't want to glue the hull -too much work would be invisible.)
EDIT: and I'll repaint the ammo boxes, too...
(I don't want to glue the hull -too much work would be invisible.)
EDIT: and I'll repaint the ammo boxes, too...
whittman181
Massachusetts, United States
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Posted: Sunday, December 23, 2007 - 07:16 AM UTC
Amazing work! I,d leave it unglued also with that interior.
great great work.
great great work.
MLD
Vermont, United States
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Posted: Monday, December 24, 2007 - 07:16 AM UTC
beautiful work. I'm impressed at the mating of the older interior with the modern kit.
If they are not permentantly attached, I'd pop off the drivers and RO hatches and set them up to rest horizontally on the hull top.
I dont believe that the hatches were attached to to lifting mechanism, but were free to flop over onto the sides, resting on the small wooden blocks that are provided for the hull edges.
Mike
maybe after the seasonal job at the post office is over, I'll drag mine out. , yeah... I'm still saying that...
If they are not permentantly attached, I'd pop off the drivers and RO hatches and set them up to rest horizontally on the hull top.
I dont believe that the hatches were attached to to lifting mechanism, but were free to flop over onto the sides, resting on the small wooden blocks that are provided for the hull edges.
Mike
maybe after the seasonal job at the post office is over, I'll drag mine out. , yeah... I'm still saying that...
spongya
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Posted: Monday, December 24, 2007 - 07:33 AM UTC
I thought it looked strange... it makes more sense like that.
Thanks for the advice. I'll try to find some photos of the blocks.
Thanks for the advice. I'll try to find some photos of the blocks.