Coming in late here ...Just thought I would add my .02 cents worth ...Execelent Job as usual...If I were to do anything to it it would be to add a bit more dirt and dust ...but that is my own opinion...Super job Dave ...keep it up!!

Rick

Wow! The weathering and scrapes are awesome. And the photo etching really compliments it beautifully. Nice coloring.. I love it !!!! That;s a tough looking tank.

Nice work. The scratches - are they from a wire dipped in paint???

Great job...

Scott

Nice Jagd Dave... this must have been your posting from back in March when you weren't a AIRPLANE builder!!!!! You really should try building a Saab sometime...

Dave,

The red oxide, is that really a purplish tint or is that the lighting? I am intrigued by the shade you have...

I have yet to see a definitive shade of this color....

TIA,

Scott

Hello Scott,

The red oxide I used is the Tamiya Hull Red. which does not have a purpulish tint. Looked real red.

I read from somewhere, this is the cloest red oxide color around, but I could be wrong.

Dave,

Very nice work! I like the way you painted your tank, the first time I saw it I thought that it could be too irregular pattern, but I see that it works!

The only thing I think you could change is the decal, it looks to me like you haven't use matt finish yet:



Here is a way to solve this problem: First paint the model as you normally would. Now, before you would attach the decals, overpaint the model with gloss varnish. Gloss varnish is a transparent paint that will make your model glossy and shiny. You can buy varnish where you buy your regular model paints, but nothing beats regular floor polish (Johnson Floor Polish)! I am not kidding!



Now, let the varnish dry, and attach the decals. They should adhere much better to the glossy surface. Let the decals dry for at least 24 hours.

Of course you don't want your finished model to look all glossy and shiny. Just spray over the entire model with flat or semi-flat varnish. This way you restore the flat sheen of the model and at the same time "seal" the paint and the decals.

Sometimes you wish to remove a decal. As long as the model is not coated with varnish, you can try to rip off the decal by using a piece of masking tape. If this doesn't work, you can use household vinegar to moist the decal. After a few minutes it should be fairly easy to get off. Be warned though - the paint may be damaged by this, so take it easy!

Lord Aragon,

Thanks a lot for the lengthy explaination. They are of great help!!! I think it might be the lightning, because I had applied flat already. and As you know, I really suck in picture taking. LOL.

The decal tip is great, you know what, I think you can extract the exact same, and submit to the article things here, they will be great helpful for new modellers.

And again, appreciate the great article.

I'm posting in Dave's thread so he will leave me alone about it.

I liiikkke it looks as if it has been around the block a bit

Very very nice.. The chipped paint is great touch keep up the outstanding work