For years I have practiced making zimmerit. After trying different methods, I now use Milliput epoxy putty and use the raking technique with a tool I made from an old razor saw. On Panzer IV's I use a hot knife and engrave the pattern in the plastic. What are some of the methods and materials you use? Is there an easier method?

I've never tried to make zimmerit, not much of a call for it on aircraft models. But I have a Panther that I plan on starting this weekend, and would like to try it. I have read many articles on it (2) and would like to hear what you folks use.

I've never tried zimmerit for myself, but in the May 2002 issue of Fine Scale Modeler there is a rather detailed article with 6 ways to do zimmerit. Putty stabbing, hot knife, putty raking, cross hatching, stamping, and a pinion roller. The issue should be on newsstands now if you look for it.

YodaMan

Tiger---did you get the latest issue of FSM? If not, please consult it. Marvelous article on zimmeritt application and types.
DJ

In order to do zimmeritt as the other posts mentioned there are several ways to do it. I have used 3 of the methods described in FSM. I hot knifed a Panther A, did the Squadron White putty and knife deal for a late model Tiger 1and made a waffle pattern stamp for my Jagdpanther. I also have used the Cavalier zimmeritt sheets. These were the easiest by far of anything I have used. I even went lo-tech on applying the Cavalier pieces. All the major components were put on using Elmers White Glue. I was afraid that being in the south would hamper its adhesion because of the humidity, but it didn't. The hot knife was pretty easy, but was kinda hard to replicate blown off or damaged sections of the zimmeritt using this method. I found that using the Squadron White putty worked best for this. I applied random patches of masking tape to certain areas, applied my putty and then the pattern, Once it was dry, I puled off the pieces of tape, and at the same time some of the putty came off with the tape producing an effective "chipping", plus the bare plastic underneath of the tape. The hardest one to replicate (for me anyways) was the waffle pattern. I just couldn't seem to get the putty to a uniform thickness and the pattern to cooperate. I finished the project but it came out looking rather sloppy so I didn't really go at it whole hog. I painted it added a litle weathering and shelved it.
I've even done some zimmeritt on some sci-fi stuff that came out looking really cool. If you can recall the Nitto SF3D line from the early 80's they had some armored suits that just needed to have some zim' applied to them. I scaled one down from its normal 1/20 scale to a nice 1/48 scale, added a scratchbuilt cockpit and then gave him some kick ass looking zimmeritt and 2 tone camo with custom markings out of the spare decal box. All in all zimmeritt is a little intimidating to folks the first time you try it, but like anything else, once you get the hang of it, it becomes second nature. Like anything else in this hobby, I suggest that you attempt some trial runs on those not so perfect/never gonna get completed/leftover parts and pieces kits before laying anything down on those $30+ kits... and most importantly....................Have fun. "Q"

Q--where does one get Cavalier? I'd like to try it.
thanks
DJ

Hi there

I've used a method suggested by Paul Owen on Track-Link (if you have access: http://www.track-link.net/articles/15 ), similarly there is an old article on ML that's relevant (http://www.network54.com/Hide/Forum/message?forumid=47207&messageid=964707010&achk=1),and the same stuff is in the FSM article (note, this article is almost word-for-word the same as B. Ohler's article that used to be at the Tamiya web site).

Anyway, I have used the Tamiya putty method on a couple of kits. It's tedious, but works well. First, I make a sharp edge by filing and sanding a piece of sprue (about 3 to 5 mm wide). I smear a thin layer of Tamiya grey putty on a patch of hull (turret or whatever), let it set up for a few seconds, then start pressing the zim pattern in with the custom tool I've made. I start from the top and work down making a vertical column, then move to the right for the next column etc. (I'm a righty, I guess a lefty would work R to L). I find it best to do one side of a piece then set it aside to dry. Once dry, I sand the zim a bit to knock off any putty chunks and to take the edge off the ridges. Tamiya putty can be softened with liquid cement if you put on too big a patch. Basically, I practiced on one piece of hull, then went whole hog on my Brummbar. It worked well. You'll see my method is almost exactly like those suggested in the various links. On a Tiger, I think I'd do the putty raking. I'd NEVER use a pyrograve or hot knife. For one, you only get one chance. The putty can be scraped off or sanded if you screw up. Second, zimmerit was a thin layer of concrete and adhesive spread on the tank, so putty simulates that.

I know some guys have successfully used spackle and a screwdriver.

You can get Cavalier zim (Cheaters!! ) from http://www.afvhobbies.com CHEAP!!

Cheers

HMMPH

It looks like AFVHobbies is down now.

Sigh...
Sorry about the useless link!

This shows how old I am getting. I last did a Zimmerite job (my first) about 14 years ago...and I don't even remember how! I do remember using Squadron green but that's about it. Times have most certainly changed. I'm not even sure how I worked up the courage to try it back then.

Jim

I use a soldering iron with a very fine tip on it. It takes a little getting used to and you might want to get some spare side skirts out of the spares box and practice a little first. I usually draw out my vertical lines first in .5 pencil then make the horizontal lines with the iron in between the vertical lines. Try that a see what you think. Chris. :-)

PS I love your screen name Tiger. Why didn't I think of that one? Oh well. If you want to see how my zimmerit comes out, I've got 4 pics under the armor section here. You can also check out my home page at: http://communities.msn.com/GermanArmorMania. Let me know what you think tiger. Chris.

Guess I'm lazy. There I admitted it. If there is an easier way I'll find it. The Tankworkshop, does an excellent waffe pattern zimmerit applicator set. See you thought I only did modern! When spreading 2 part epoxy putty, such as Milliput, be sure to use a flat non stick surface, like a piece of glass or ceramic tile. Put down a layer of talcum powder to keep it from sticking, and work in small areas at a time.

Jack

Andy---ordered the Cavalier for the Elephant I am building.
Thanks
DJ

I used a 2 part epoxy putty called "Zimm-it-Rite" and then used a zimmerit stamp. I have only done zimmerit one time but this stuff was very easy to work with because it has a 2 hour drying time. You get canisters for about $10(enough to do about 4-5 tanks). The results can be seen in the gallery on my King Tiger.

DJ,
Sorry I missed your post in regards to the zimmeritt. Cavalier is out of production now, but there are seom places that still carry it. They have a pretty varied assortment and even some generic sheets that you can cut and use on whatever you want to. They also made some ammo belts at one time that were just excellent. IF you can find these, they are well worth the price. Makes photo etch belts pale in comparison. "Q"

Cavalier OOP???!

Man, Anvil tracks done for dinner last year.
Yanks gone (but maybe coming back...).
And now Cavalier!!

Bummer

Yeah Andy,
Cavalier done packed it in. There is still a good supply out there, but I think once its gone its gone. I have been stocking up whenever I find some. At roughly $20 a sheet though it can get exspensive in a hurry. Found the best place to pick the stuff up is at shows/contests, but the price is usually close to retail if not at retail. Guess you just have to time it right. "Q"

This is why I think this website is the best around. Guys your advice and experience is great. I appreciate the time you took to respond to this post. I tried Cavalier's Zimmerit one time on a Tiger 1 Late Version, and it came out pretty good. A local Armor HobbyShop here on Long Island has Cavalier in stock as we speak. The waffle pattern is definately one I would like to try, I have a StuG ready to go. I also read the latest FSM and does anyone know about Tamiya Zimmerit tool. I have been looking for it for a long time and everyone tells me it is discontinued. I e-mailed Tamiya but they never responded. Any info would be great. Oh, nice work Chris!!!

Thanks Tiger, I appreciate the compliment. I'm still fairly new at this hobby, but learned the zimmerit with the soldering iron very early on. Now most of my armor has it. I'm getting pretty good at that. I need to practice a little more on scratch building now. One step at a time. Thanks again. Chris. :-)

Tiger,
Try contacting Squadron Mail Order. They may have the Tamiya Zimmeritt tool in stock. All it is, is something like a small saw-like blades with varying widths. I think I paid roughly $7 for the ones I bought. IMHO they aren't worth the money. You can achieve a result that is about the same from a small ex-acto saw blade in a handle, or even using a piece of HO guage corrugated tin. I found htis last itme in a train store and it works pretty well also. Your welcome for the help. Can't promote the hobby without sharing information. Have fun. "Q"

Someone refered to the "spackle and screwdriver" zim method. It looks great for a few years, but if you move around (like I have been known to do) it tends to fall off in big sheets. You can glue them back on with CA, but it never looks the same...

I like the hot knife method. The trick is to set the right heat. The FSM article mentions using a dimmer switch, but doesn't tell how to use it.

Years ago, I found a table top dimmer that's made for using with table lamps. It has a sliding switch on a box mounted on an extension cord. Get your blade prepped, mount in hot knife or soldering iron, plug it in, then keep increasing power a bit at a time while testing it on sprue (from the same kit you're planning to zimmerit).

When you get the knife to the right temp (melting easily, but not like butter -- or burning!), test run a few rows on a scrap flat piece (again from the kit -- use the unseen interior if you must) and adjust as needed.

Mark some lines on the model with a pencil to make sure your burned lines are straight.

Like the FSM article says, knock off the high spots with some sandpaper.

Hope this helps someone,

Thanks for the info HollowPoint. Also thanks Red for the Tamiya applicator info, Maybe I I'll just stick with the razor saw method and hot knife. :-)