Ok, newbie question #2 for you guys who answered my sandbags question. How do you guys get those dark creases and shadows on your troops uniforms?
North
AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Hosted by Darren Baker, Matthew Toms
Figures
Northman
United States
Joined: March 17, 2003
KitMaker: 9 posts
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Joined: March 17, 2003
KitMaker: 9 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Tuesday, April 01, 2003 - 02:07 PM UTC
slodder
North Carolina, United States
Joined: February 22, 2002
KitMaker: 11,718 posts
Armorama: 7,138 posts
Joined: February 22, 2002
KitMaker: 11,718 posts
Armorama: 7,138 posts
Posted: Tuesday, April 01, 2003 - 02:12 PM UTC
One way is with a wash. A wash is a thinned down mix of paint and thinner. I use tamiya paints and water for my washes. I tend to do a very thin wash one or two drops paint to about 5-7 drops water. I opt for more coats to get the desired affect.
Another tip is to use a darkened shade of the base color. That will complement the base color.
Another tip is to use a darkened shade of the base color. That will complement the base color.
Northman
United States
Joined: March 17, 2003
KitMaker: 9 posts
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Joined: March 17, 2003
KitMaker: 9 posts
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Posted: Tuesday, April 01, 2003 - 02:26 PM UTC
So I mix my Tamiya's with water and just paint normally? Or like drybrushing?
Grasshopp12
New Hampshire, United States
Joined: September 28, 2002
KitMaker: 757 posts
Armorama: 459 posts
Joined: September 28, 2002
KitMaker: 757 posts
Armorama: 459 posts
Posted: Tuesday, April 01, 2003 - 02:34 PM UTC
You can do a wash one of two ways. The first is to paint into recesses ONLY, and the other is to paint everything and wipe up any excess wash you have left.
As far as painting goes, what Scott mentioned with the darkened base is you paint your base and let dry for a day or two. Then paint the darkened base into the creases and folds. Let this dry for about 20-30 min. Then take a clean brush and put a little thinner on it (VERY little) and blend the darkened shade into your base. Do this to your liking.
As far as painting goes, what Scott mentioned with the darkened base is you paint your base and let dry for a day or two. Then paint the darkened base into the creases and folds. Let this dry for about 20-30 min. Then take a clean brush and put a little thinner on it (VERY little) and blend the darkened shade into your base. Do this to your liking.
Northman
United States
Joined: March 17, 2003
KitMaker: 9 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Joined: March 17, 2003
KitMaker: 9 posts
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Posted: Tuesday, April 01, 2003 - 02:40 PM UTC
Got it, Thanks fellas.
Sladog
United States
Joined: April 01, 2003
KitMaker: 111 posts
Armorama: 57 posts
Joined: April 01, 2003
KitMaker: 111 posts
Armorama: 57 posts
Posted: Wednesday, April 02, 2003 - 11:27 PM UTC
Scott, thanks! Great tips. I was just getting ready to make a post just like this one.
AJLaFleche
Massachusetts, United States
Joined: May 05, 2002
KitMaker: 8,074 posts
Armorama: 3,293 posts
Joined: May 05, 2002
KitMaker: 8,074 posts
Armorama: 3,293 posts
Posted: Thursday, April 03, 2003 - 02:55 AM UTC
I've used oils and enamels almost exclusively for washes. I have never had any real success with acrylics, thiugh I have been pleased withthe experiments I've tried with Andres/Vallejo. I don't wipe off a wash, but reather let it tone the whole area. For really tight areas, such as fringe, I'll put a bit of the thinned mixture right in the crease. To want to avoid a harsh line between the shades as much as possible. I've found that appliying the drop of thinned oil along pockets and other raised detail makes a faded line by itself.
Remember,the better the figure you're working with, easier this work is going to be.
Remember,the better the figure you're working with, easier this work is going to be.