How do i sumbmerge my tauch panzer in resin?
i want on a square base and i wanted to show the panzer driving along the bottum of a river.

Another problem im thinking i might strike is air bubbles.
How do you stop them?

This is my plan.


Will this have to be in a glass case?
because i wanted it to just be a block of resin.

Any way was hoping that some thats done this can help me.

I'm not sure you want to submerge the whole model in resin. You could achive the same effect using glass panes perhaps. Most resin shrinks when it cures, even if ever so slightly. It might be just enough to pop your hull apart, maybe not. But I wouldn't chance it. If you do decide to go with it the bubbles might actualy lend some realism to it. To eliminate them though you could build a small presssure pot.

Is this going to be a diorama where the tank has fallen in or is fording deep water?

If so, you have a couple of options.
Use this stuff in 5mm layers (lots of them). Be careful with heat, the stuff may melt your kit. Test it first.
Resin
Make an outter shell out of styrene and it will pop off later. Pour layers and it will make bubble management easier.
See this page
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Or you can make a box out of clear styrene.
Or you could imitate the top of the water only. Use the same resin above and simply pour it over a piece of kitchen foil. When dry cut out the hole for the turret details.

David, how about having the tank exiting the water up a slight or steep incline/bank ?
This way you could choose the amount of water that the tank would be submerged in, 3/4 of the tank, a third, a half etc.
Start by pouring maybe a quarter of the tank, if that looks good pour some more and cover up the tank some more, stop when you're pleased with the results.
Just my opinion, but I think a fully submerged tank like in your diagram wouldn't look right when finished.
Cheyenne

Hi David,

Another idea would be do go with the same idea Rhodes Williams did with his LWS and the sunken boat. Do some blueish coloured plexiglass box to put your Panzer in. But how can you arrange that it stikes out ??
That's another question

Cheers
Claude

you could use the resin 'real water' gel offered by scenic. it comes in liquid form in bottles. it is a little expensive ($14). It can be tinted using acrylic paint. you can layer it however you want and make waves at the top for the periscope. all u need to do is make a small box out of styrene and layer it in around the tank. it would be time consuming, but the end result would be worth it. by layering it you would eliminate most of the air bubbles i should think.

-Mike

Another product is Releastic water sold at Wal-mart hobby/flower section. It only makes an 8 oz. bottle of water at about $12 per bottle but dries very clear, or can be mixed with food coloring for different colors. Biggest problem I had was sealing the area to be poured, I lost about a third of it before I plugged the leak.
Good Luck,
Bob

Can you play about with resin when it's at a kind of tacky stage?
i was thinking if it pretty much submerged then the snorkal is going to need some sort of wake behind it.

Other than that maby it might just be entering the water off the bank of the river.
Anyone have any pics of the bug river in russia?
Thats where they used this particular tank.
Its one of the imperial series Dragon kits.

I got it half built it was involed in a robery at my local dealers shop.
And when he got it back he sold it to me for $25.

Yes. When it is near hardened you can use a toothpick to slowly press in and drag the resin into a desired shape. There is a great tutorial I found in a google search. I will try to pull it up for you... It works great.

-Mike

Here you are: http://www.aircraftresourcecenter.com/tnt1/001-100/TNT067_making-water_Geraths/tnt067.htm

you can try using woodland scenics water products, normally used for model RRs but will work all the same here.
http://www.woodlandscenics.com/

yeah I was having an off day during my original post I use the Realistic Water. It comes in bottles and comes out clearest. It is the WS product.

-Mike

Could you find "rippled " shower enclosure type plastic panels? use those for the 4 sides.
Cut a thick clear plastic for the "surface,with a hole for the snorkel. do stippled woodland senics or other resin on top to give the effect of water on top.

Thats an interesting theory you have there Carl.

This is easy. Castincraft clear resin. One or two 12 dollar cans should do nicely. This stuff is designed to submerge stuff into. When submerging they recommend you do it in layers, and so do I. Especially for something that size. For the air bubbles if you use this stuff, for one stick it on something that vibrates good. Also you can use like a hatpin or something to get in there ti help draw them out. This stuff also has a long cure time. Takes a good 12 hours before it starts to really set up, so there is plenty of time for the air bubbles to rise out. Since I doubt it would take you a full two cans, it might be worth considering picking up like a VERY small diecast. Like hotwheels sized armor. Then try submerging that. GEt something that is about as complicated as the 35 scale tank. That way you can judge how the airbubbles are gonna go, and where they would be at. Gives you some practice. The only issue with this resin(other then it stinking like bondo), is that any air will cause it not to cure and the surface to be tacky. There are two ways to fix this, one is an additive, which you can order from tap plastics. The other is a spray that after it's done you spray several coats on, and it helps to cure the surface. It is a clear coat, and after the coats are dry, you can polish right up. It is made by castin craft as well. For the 12 dollar can the stock number is 00175. You can get this stuff through tap as well. I use Tap's own quickcast for casting regular resin and their silicon rtv because it's every strong, very flexable, and most of the time you don't need a mold release agent. Tap also sells a clear casting epoxy as well, that is very clear and has a good surface and polishes up quite nicely.

*EDIT*
Reading some of the other posts reminds me. The castin craft doesn't give off the heat, since it's such a slow cure. Neither does the casting epoxy sold by Tap. Jes give em a call, and visit their website. They REALLY know their stuff. If there is a location near you, take the model in, and the base, and tell them what you want to do, they'll get you set right up. By the way, this is an absolutely GREAT idea you have, and I want to see it done.