hand drill from Mr. hobby MD3000
http://www.luckymodel.com/scale.aspx?item_no=MD%203000
I want to use it to create some damages and for ordinary dirilling (o really ??? )
I tried to look on many sites but didn't succeed. Anyone knows this? Is it any good? Are there some drills included etc.
thx for your help
Hosted by Darren Baker
looking for data on this item
spitfire303
Vendee, France
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Posted: Monday, October 22, 2007 - 07:42 AM UTC
BoogalooJ
Ontario, Canada
Joined: July 18, 2005
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Joined: July 18, 2005
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Posted: Monday, October 22, 2007 - 08:25 AM UTC
I'm not sure, but you can email LuckyModel and ask them for details. Their customer service is fantastic.
I'm curious what the specs are for this too, I have a dremel, but would like something a little slower that won't melt my model right before my eyes. Let me know what you find out!
Jamie
I'm curious what the specs are for this too, I have a dremel, but would like something a little slower that won't melt my model right before my eyes. Let me know what you find out!
Jamie
BoogalooJ
Ontario, Canada
Joined: July 18, 2005
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Joined: July 18, 2005
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Posted: Monday, October 22, 2007 - 08:44 AM UTC
Actually, looking at the item more, it's a rechargable system, so seems pretty good for the price.
I have emailed them for information about the drill, such as rpm's and if any extra drill bits are included. I'll let you know when they respond.
Jamie
I have emailed them for information about the drill, such as rpm's and if any extra drill bits are included. I'll let you know when they respond.
Jamie
spitfire303
Vendee, France
Joined: December 22, 2006
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Posted: Monday, October 22, 2007 - 08:47 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Actually, looking at the item more, it's a rechargable system, so seems pretty good for the price.
I have emailed them for information about the drill, such as rpm's and if any extra drill bits are included. I'll let you know when they respond.
Jamie
thx Jamie, I've just made the same thing. We will see their answer;
cheers
DeskJockey
Virginia, United States
Joined: July 17, 2006
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Posted: Monday, October 22, 2007 - 10:33 AM UTC
Sounds like a promising tool. Keep us posted on what Lucky Model has to say. I might get one for myself if the rpms are low enough.
spitfire303
Vendee, France
Joined: December 22, 2006
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Posted: Monday, October 22, 2007 - 11:27 AM UTC
what rpm rate is most suitable for armor modeling?
DeskJockey
Virginia, United States
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Posted: Monday, October 22, 2007 - 12:56 PM UTC
I've never gotten a good answer from folks, but "well below 5,000" seems to be a rule of thumb for many. Since many rotary tools start at 5,000 rpm, it's hard to find a suitable one, I guess.
MacsTrucks
Indiana, United States
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Posted: Monday, October 22, 2007 - 01:26 PM UTC
The problem is that suitable rpm for modelling really depends on what you are doing. 5000 rpm is usually the minimum speed for most "Dremel" type motor tools. Technically that speed will start to melt plastic and can burn wood. The reality is that tool control and application can make it work.
Personally, I stick with a pin vise for fine drill work by hand. I use my motor tool at the minimum speed for rough work (i.e. removing large amounts of material) or where the exact size is not critical. Admittedly I've managed to avoid situations requiring large numbers of drilled holes. Don't get me wrong, you can use a motor tool on plastic, it just takes practice.
Personally, I stick with a pin vise for fine drill work by hand. I use my motor tool at the minimum speed for rough work (i.e. removing large amounts of material) or where the exact size is not critical. Admittedly I've managed to avoid situations requiring large numbers of drilled holes. Don't get me wrong, you can use a motor tool on plastic, it just takes practice.
BoogalooJ
Ontario, Canada
Joined: July 18, 2005
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Posted: Monday, October 22, 2007 - 02:22 PM UTC
I've read a recent tip recommending a cordless screwdriver, and a special adapter sold through micromark. Just a guess, but I'd assume that these would run in the low hundreds.
A control switch for a dremel is ideal, but most dremels are variable speed, and I have been told that these won't work with a control switch.
If the rpm's put out through this machine are low enough, it may be the cheapest option available.
Jamie
A control switch for a dremel is ideal, but most dremels are variable speed, and I have been told that these won't work with a control switch.
If the rpm's put out through this machine are low enough, it may be the cheapest option available.
Jamie
BoogalooJ
Ontario, Canada
Joined: July 18, 2005
KitMaker: 230 posts
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Joined: July 18, 2005
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Posted: Tuesday, October 23, 2007 - 01:54 AM UTC
I received a reply from Raymond at LuckyModel.
"We don't have RPM information. The drill comes with 1 set of bits. But
other brand bits can be used on this drill set."
I emailed him back to see if the drill has variable speed, or a simple on off button.
Jamie
"We don't have RPM information. The drill comes with 1 set of bits. But
other brand bits can be used on this drill set."
I emailed him back to see if the drill has variable speed, or a simple on off button.
Jamie
Posted: Tuesday, October 23, 2007 - 04:58 AM UTC
I use a plain Dremel with a dimmer switch in line with the main power. There are those that say this hurts the Dremel, but mine has been that way for over 20 eyars and used for not only modelling, but LOTs of tasks around the house wit no ill effects. The thing's a tank.
I can get the revs really low, but the torque sufferes at really low RPMS. I can certainly get it down to where it's harder to melt the plastic, but at higher revs, the secret is to use just short periods of contact with the plastic. Repeated small cuts will keep you from loading up the burr with melted plastic. Also, use a relatively coarse burr or cutter to take larger chips and that works well, too.
I never drill with a motor tool, at least not hand held (I have a mill that I can drill with like a press and that works well). Motor tools just aren't accurate enough when held by hand to do a good job where any level of precision is required. The old pin-vise is still your best bet for that kind of work.
The Dremel minimite is a battery operated small motor tool and it has a high and low range. The high range is below the lowest normal variable speed Dremel speed and the low range is pretty low and ideal for cutting plastic. It doesn't have a lot of torque and battery life is limited (it's rechargeable) but it is a good companions to the regualr Dremel for specific jobs.
HTH
Paul
I can get the revs really low, but the torque sufferes at really low RPMS. I can certainly get it down to where it's harder to melt the plastic, but at higher revs, the secret is to use just short periods of contact with the plastic. Repeated small cuts will keep you from loading up the burr with melted plastic. Also, use a relatively coarse burr or cutter to take larger chips and that works well, too.
I never drill with a motor tool, at least not hand held (I have a mill that I can drill with like a press and that works well). Motor tools just aren't accurate enough when held by hand to do a good job where any level of precision is required. The old pin-vise is still your best bet for that kind of work.
The Dremel minimite is a battery operated small motor tool and it has a high and low range. The high range is below the lowest normal variable speed Dremel speed and the low range is pretty low and ideal for cutting plastic. It doesn't have a lot of torque and battery life is limited (it's rechargeable) but it is a good companions to the regualr Dremel for specific jobs.
HTH
Paul
BoogalooJ
Ontario, Canada
Joined: July 18, 2005
KitMaker: 230 posts
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Posted: Tuesday, October 23, 2007 - 06:42 AM UTC
I've always been told that the dimmer switch would destroy the variable speed dremels, but if yours has been working this way for 20 years, who am I to argue?
I'm just about finished with my spray booth, now to work on a dimmer box.
Oddly, I have seen the Dremel Minimites, and they all seem to run from 5000-10000 rpm's. Isn't that still a little high for styrene?
I already have a pin vice and several bits that get well used. However, I tried to grind out a headlight, and holding that tiny thing in my fingers and approaching it with a bit spinning at 5000 rpm's just wasn't my cup of tea. By the way, it is possible to grind out a headlight using a pin vise, but it's really hard on the wrist...
Jamie
I'm just about finished with my spray booth, now to work on a dimmer box.
Oddly, I have seen the Dremel Minimites, and they all seem to run from 5000-10000 rpm's. Isn't that still a little high for styrene?
I already have a pin vice and several bits that get well used. However, I tried to grind out a headlight, and holding that tiny thing in my fingers and approaching it with a bit spinning at 5000 rpm's just wasn't my cup of tea. By the way, it is possible to grind out a headlight using a pin vise, but it's really hard on the wrist...
Jamie
spitfire303
Vendee, France
Joined: December 22, 2006
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Posted: Friday, October 26, 2007 - 01:50 AM UTC
they updated the description of this product and added more pictures.
http://www.luckymodel.com/scale.aspx?item_no=MD%203000
so it's 10000 RPM
http://www.luckymodel.com/scale.aspx?item_no=MD%203000
so it's 10000 RPM
BoogalooJ
Ontario, Canada
Joined: July 18, 2005
KitMaker: 230 posts
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Joined: July 18, 2005
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Posted: Friday, October 26, 2007 - 03:31 AM UTC
You beat me to it. I just got an email from Silvia about the changes.
Still a bit faster than I am looking for, so it's off to build a dimmer box for me....
Jamie
Still a bit faster than I am looking for, so it's off to build a dimmer box for me....
Jamie