Gluing to the top of the road wheels doesn't work well as the clue tends not to stick to the track and even if it does, it then sticks to the road wheel paint and then pulls the paint from the road wheel.
Here's a less labor intensive solution. I suggest you do this before you paint them. Dip them in boiling water for 20-30 seconds, then form them around the suspension. Once they cool, they'll hold their shape. I've done it with Italeri tracks of all types and even the tracks for the Tamiya M3 half-track. It woorks like a charm.
Hi Guys,
I already tried the tiedown method with thread, but because of the tension on the track my back idler wheel broke off.
I think i'll trie the pin method.
Thanks for your suggestions !!
Gé Hovens
[I have no problem gluing the kit tracks to the top of the roadwheels with superglue.
Quoted TextTamiya and Testors liquid cements were no good either. In the end, the only thing that did the trick was Tenax.
Well of course not, those glues will not join vinyl tracks, but that's not what we are talking about here. We're talking about holding them down to the tops of the roadwheels, AFTER they are joined.
Quoted TextHi Guys,
I already tried the tiedown method with thread, but because of the tension on the track my back idler wheel broke off.
I think i'll trie the pin method.
Thanks for your suggestions !!
Gé Hovens
Be careful. If tying down the track pulled off the idler, then the pin method will as well unless you made a mistake while tying. The increased tension came from the track not having enough length to accomodate the sag. If this is the case, any method of producing the sag will increase tension on the idler. You might want to try the hot water method and try to pull the track longer at the same time to get the extra length you need.
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