Hi,
I'm wondering if anyone has a paint mix to replicate the bright orange/yellow portion of the SS Autumn Camouflage smock. I've matched the rest of the colours too my satisfaction but can't get this last one right. I've tried various mixes in humbrol (preferred choice) and Vallejo,but it's proving very elusive. I also tried the Vallejo mixes in Ospreys modelling Waffen SS Figures (Vallejo 824 6 parts & 981 1 part) but this colour is too brown & the colour in the books photos looks too yellow. For reference I'm using the images of smocks on the websites of At the Front & The History Bunker.
Figures
Military figures of all shapes and sizes.
Military figures of all shapes and sizes.
Hosted by Darren Baker, Mario Matijasic
SS Autum Oak Leaf Camouflage Colours
captkirk
United Kingdom
Joined: November 16, 2007
KitMaker: 4 posts
Armorama: 3 posts
Joined: November 16, 2007
KitMaker: 4 posts
Armorama: 3 posts
Posted: Thursday, November 15, 2007 - 08:34 PM UTC
Jamesite
United Kingdom
Joined: December 05, 2006
KitMaker: 2,208 posts
Armorama: 2,152 posts
Joined: December 05, 2006
KitMaker: 2,208 posts
Armorama: 2,152 posts
Posted: Friday, November 16, 2007 - 01:28 AM UTC
Kirk,
I've just been painting some autumn oakleaf myself and have used revell and humbrol enamels, unfortunately their numbers evade me at this point.
However, my advice is don't get caught up on trying to get an exact colour, for these reasons:
1. The real colour will be different to the 'scale colour' ie. you'll want a different shade to make it look right in 1/35 (I presume you're working in this scale).
2. My girlfreinds a photographer and will tell you that by taking a photo you are changing the colours slightly, as again you do when you print something, so any photos you see will actually be a different shade to the real thing and even printed colour palettes will have altered from their intended colour.
3. Dye's back then were not of the same as they are today, therefore excessive use of said garments in the field will lead to fading and dirt altering the colours again (you have to remember these guys practically lived in their uniform) and so a repo or preserved item will itself not be a great representation of one worn in the field.
So what does this mean, basically you can try and get an exact match as much as you like, but how accurate will it actually be?
I'd suggest therefore you concentrate more importantly on trying to get the colours of the camo to look correct next to one another, ie. are the correct tones in comparisson to each other, and making sure you get the pattern right. This will ensure a good looking camouflage much more than trying to get an exact colour match.
Hope this is of some use, good luck,
James
I've just been painting some autumn oakleaf myself and have used revell and humbrol enamels, unfortunately their numbers evade me at this point.
However, my advice is don't get caught up on trying to get an exact colour, for these reasons:
1. The real colour will be different to the 'scale colour' ie. you'll want a different shade to make it look right in 1/35 (I presume you're working in this scale).
2. My girlfreinds a photographer and will tell you that by taking a photo you are changing the colours slightly, as again you do when you print something, so any photos you see will actually be a different shade to the real thing and even printed colour palettes will have altered from their intended colour.
3. Dye's back then were not of the same as they are today, therefore excessive use of said garments in the field will lead to fading and dirt altering the colours again (you have to remember these guys practically lived in their uniform) and so a repo or preserved item will itself not be a great representation of one worn in the field.
So what does this mean, basically you can try and get an exact match as much as you like, but how accurate will it actually be?
I'd suggest therefore you concentrate more importantly on trying to get the colours of the camo to look correct next to one another, ie. are the correct tones in comparisson to each other, and making sure you get the pattern right. This will ensure a good looking camouflage much more than trying to get an exact colour match.
Hope this is of some use, good luck,
James
perlossing
Kristianstads, Sweden
Joined: July 08, 2007
KitMaker: 110 posts
Armorama: 94 posts
Joined: July 08, 2007
KitMaker: 110 posts
Armorama: 94 posts
Posted: Friday, November 16, 2007 - 07:40 AM UTC
I get this link from Anders Heintz I think it was great.
Have fun
http://www.timelinesforum.com/index.php?page=oakleaf1
Have fun
http://www.timelinesforum.com/index.php?page=oakleaf1
captkirk
United Kingdom
Joined: November 16, 2007
KitMaker: 4 posts
Armorama: 3 posts
Joined: November 16, 2007
KitMaker: 4 posts
Armorama: 3 posts
Posted: Saturday, November 17, 2007 - 08:11 AM UTC
Hi,
Thanks for the replies - that link is very good.
Another modeller advised my to try Citadel Miniatures "Vomit Brown" which is available at Games Workshop here in the UK. I've got hold of a bottle & it's pretty close to what I'm looking for.
Thanks for the replies - that link is very good.
Another modeller advised my to try Citadel Miniatures "Vomit Brown" which is available at Games Workshop here in the UK. I've got hold of a bottle & it's pretty close to what I'm looking for.
Steve1479
Ontario, Canada
Joined: December 09, 2007
KitMaker: 164 posts
Armorama: 85 posts
Joined: December 09, 2007
KitMaker: 164 posts
Armorama: 85 posts
Posted: Tuesday, December 11, 2007 - 11:58 AM UTC
Thats what paints I've been using for the past 6 years In my opinion, they are great, go on nice and smooth and dry very smooth, fast, and nice. Only let down is they chip easily, and they are water based.